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INTO THE

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Inu Chee Parts.

VIZ. Into LT oo Re BEY: IP AB eR® S$. Ivan IL The EAS T-INDIES.

Mewly pone out of French. —

Licenfed, Decemb. 2. 1686. RO. LESTRANGE.

LONDON,

Printed by H. Clark, for H. Faithorne, 7. Adamfon, C. Skegnes, and T. New- borough, Bookfellers i in St. Pauls Church- Yard, en CU

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PREFACE

T would be needlefs, without doubt, by any Preliminary Dilcourfe,to recommend the Re- lations of TRAVELS to publick Peru-

fal; fince the univerfal Approbation they meet. with in the World, and the eagernefs wherewith they are fought after by all People, is an Argu- ment convincing enough; that they are Delight-

ful at leaft, if not allo Profitable. However,

fecing the Credit of Books of this Nature de- pends chiefly on the Places and Things that are defcribed, and the Genius and capacity of the Tra- veller who obferves them. As the Title Page

gives a general account of the firft; fo for the fecond, the Tranflator hath borrowed a few Para-

graphs concerning the Illuftrious Author, from the Gentleman who compiled and publifhed the two laft Parts of thefe Relations, in Execution

of the laft Will of him that made them, who

Dying abroad in his Travels, bequeathed them in

Legacy to his care; and thefe the Tranflator doth

_ premife by way of Preface, to prepare, but not

foreftal the Readers acceptance, and by fuch a fhort view and glance of the worthy ‘Traveller, who ended his Days in endeavouring to promote

(a) Knowledge

mr PRFACE.

great his Abilities were in this kind. |

Maonfieur de Thevenot, the Renowned Author of thefe ‘Travels, was a Gentleman of a good Fami-

ly, Born the feventh of Fume, 1633. At Eigh-

teen Years of Age hehad accomplifhd his Stu |

dies in the College of Navarre, in the Univer- |

fity of Paris, and then applied himfelf to thofe Exerciles, which in the breeding of Youth, com- monly fuccede to their School Education ; till ha- ving both a defire and liberty to Travel; On the

Eighteenth of December, 1652. he parted from

Paris for England. We made no long ftay in this Country, but took the firft occafion of Sailing

over to Holland, where he remained longer. His |

next remove was to Colen, and from Colen to Franckfort and Ratisbone, that he might fee an Imperial Diet there. He afterwards crofled the re- maining part of Germany, and entering Italy by the Mountains of Tirol, went firlt to Verona, from thence to Venice; trom Venice to Loretto; and from thence to Rome. He ftayed a confide- rable time there, becaule when he was juft upon parting, Pope Innocent the ‘Tenth Died; fo that he refolved to tarry a little longer that he might fee the Ceremonies, and all that happens on fuch

Occafions, during a Conclave, and at the Coro- —

nation of a Pope. He left not Rome then, till

after the Creation of Alexander the Seventh. The.

firft part of his Travels over moft part of Turkey, Egypt, the Holy Land, &c. (which he himielf put

to the Prefs) is an Account of what he had feen in |

that

Knowledge and improve Learning, to fhew how.

SR ee ee eee

Th PREFACE. that time, until he came back again to Legorn; from whence he made another Journey in Jtaly, that he might fee all the other Places which he had not vilited the time before, and made fome ftay at the Court of Savoy, betore he returned into France. Our Author hath publifhed nothing of thefe Travels; not but that he made a Relation of them, which he was at the pains to write out fair: But as he was a modeft Man, and diftruftful of his own performances, he would not give it to

be printed with the firft part of his Travels, which

he himflf handed to the Prefs, thinking thefe were

Countreys fufficiently known already. It is indeed, but his fit Effay, yet perhaps not inferior to the exa@nefs of more mature time. He therein gives you a fuccin& Account of all that is Curious in every place, and a character of the feveral People. - In fhort, he fays enough to give one a reafonable in- formation of thofe Countreys, and not too much, to cloy the Reader with the repetition of what he hath {een before. The Publifher of the two lat Parts of thefe Travels, has that Relation by him, but has as yet taken no refolution what to do with it.

Our Illuftrious ‘Traveller had not been long at home after his firft Travels, before the fame Motives of Curiofity and Learning, put him upon prepa- ring for a fecond Expedition, fo that privately he withdrew himfelf from his Friends, without taking leave, in order to travel over Perfra and the Indies, which are the Subjects of the two laft Parts of his Relations, and of the laft part of his days; for

as he was returning again through Perfs into

Europe,

The PREFACE.

Europe, he Died at Mana, a lite place about thirty Leagues from Tauris, the twenty eighth of November, 1667. his Obfervations ending but a . few days before his Life ; whofe Death, not only his Relations (to whom he was very dear) but even the publick hath reafon to bewail, as having loft in him an Example of Piety, a Model of Vertue and a Treafury of Knowledge. Nay, Reader, you ao have caufe to Lament this Lof, in relation to that Satisfaaion you might have had from the laft two Parts of his Relations; which would have been doubtlefs Augmented, if Providence had oranted him longer Life. For Monfreur de Thevenot was not only exact in the daily Memoires he made in ‘Vravelling, of all things he obferved in the Coun- treys he pafied through, but being a perfon very | inquifitive after the ‘Truth, and who would not reft fatisfied with every flight Information, he ad- drefsd himfelf to as many, and as often as poffibly he could, the better to find out the truth of what he defired to know, and difperfed the notices he had given him here and there confufedly among his Memoires; fo that the Publifher who imployed all imaginable care and pains in compiling them, is neverthelefs forced to complain of the great Fatigue he underwent, in putting them together in the order they fhould be, and aren. However, it is not to be thought, that there is any thing fuppofi- titious or altered in thele two laft Parts; no, they are only not fo full as they would have been, had the Author lived to decipher the Short Notes, which were clear enough to him, though not alto- sether fo intelligible to others: And the truth 1s, the | | Ingenious ©

| Fhe PREF ACE.

ingenious Publifher ts fo far from Alterations,

that he would not fo much as change that for- reign Air and Drels they brought with them from _ Abroad, chufing rather to let them {peak in the naked and plain ftrain of the Author, than in the more elaborate. Language of the Court and Town, which would chiefly be believed for their words-fake. And indeed, he had reafon fo to

do, for a genuine and fimple ftyle, fuch as can

raife a diftin& Idea in the mind of the Reader, is the proper ftyle for particular and exat Rela- : tions of things; and that was the Charadter of ©

Monfeur de Thevenot, in the firft Part of his Tra- vels; which hath been fo well taken and appro- ved of by all Men of Breeding and Senfe, that ir would have been an Injury both to the Author and Reader to have Alterd it.

The extraordinary ExaGnefs of our Judicious Traveller, in obferving the Minuteft Particular of any thing that occurred to him abroad, may be difikd perhaps, by fome who mind their pleafure more than profit, in Reading the Rela- tions of Travels, and had rather be fhamm’d with fome Romantick idle Tales, than inftruced in real and fubftantial Truths. But feeing all his Obiervations are made with Judgment, that feming’ fuperfluous exa@nefs can be no {mall Sa- tisfation to the Curiofity of all Ingenious Per- fons, nor no inconfiderable Advantage neither to thofe who Travel into,the fame Countries, . when they fhall find the leaft things obfervable on all the Roads he paft, fo particularly fet down and

. Cbs) defcribed

Thé PREFACE.

defcribed, that a Traveller who hath the Book

with him, may be able to tell as well as his _ Guide what kind of way and accommodation up-

on the Road they are like to have, even fome ©

days before they Travel it ; infomuch, that it may be confidently affirmed, that no Almanack fo éx- actly delcribes the Road from London to York, as

our Induftrious Author hath done it in that vaft

extent of Countries he pafsd through; for which all Travellers ought to have a veneration for his © Memory, and if they ‘intend to make Publick any thing of this Nature, Imitate him if they can.

~ Tam bold to fay, if they can; becaule, befides the fingular Talents and Abilities Monfeur de T be- venot had for Obfervation; he undertook his Tra- vels in a far more noble profpe&, than that which caries a great many others fo far from home; who making their Trade their main bufinefs, cannot beftow but the leaft part of their Application up- on curious Obfervation. As for him, he was wholly devoted toit, and that with fo great Af fiduity, that (according to the report of many who faw him in thofe Countries) he hardly al- lowed himfelf time to eat. It is cafe to judge of the va(tnels of his Labour, by the reading of thefe Re- lations, wherein it appears, that he was conftantly taken up in making Remarks generally on all things. But as a farther confirmation of this, the Gentleman who Publifhed the two laft Parts of thele Travels, has now by him à Work made by the Author in the Indies, that gives a far greater proof of his exaétnefs and pains. It is a Collection x | | a

The PREF ACE.

all the Plants of thofe Countries, which in Bota- nick terms is called a Hortus Siccus: it confifts of five Volumes, wherein may be: feen the natural Leaves of Plants, and Branches alfo of all forts, of Trees, of which the Leaves and Flowers of fome, with their Pods, had not (when the fécond part of thefe Travels was firft Publifhed_) loft their Colour. All thefe are early pafted on one Page, and on the oppofite, you have the Name of the Plant in Portuguefe, Perfian, Indian, Malabar and Banian: - Then he gives a Defcription of the Plant, in fuch'a manner, as not only fhews his exadtnefs in all things, but his skill alfo in that Science, the fmal- left Filament is not omitted in it : He obferves the Places where the Plant is moft commonly to be = found; the time when it is in Flower, bears Fruit, . _ andits Vertues,if it have any that are known. The

truth is, fo curious and elaborate a Work, might deferve a better Fate, than to lye moulding in the bottom of a Trunk, and it is no {mall trouble to him who has it, that being unable to furnifh either Time or Expences for Publifhing the fame, he is forced fo to let it Perifh in obfcurity; nor was it but only by chance neither, that he got the Figures of two of thefe Plants; and becaufe Monjfreur de T bevenot, who faw them before he began his Col- lection, had made an ample Delcription, and

fmall Defign of them in his Memoires.

. À Work of this nature may very well taife a high notion ofits Author; butit is a furprizing thing, that at the fame time he could purfue his other Obfervations of the Countrey , and ftudy

. the

1

The PREFACE.

em TST LS Te OU, the Languages, wherein he made great Progrefs,

and hath given us the Malabar Alphabet, and fome — Rules of the Syntax of that Language. He had an extraordinary aptitude for Languages, for not to mention thofe that are molt known in his own Countrey, he fully underftood Turkifb, Arabick, and Perfian, which enabled him to Know and Write, as he hath done, of thof"People. ‘And as his Obfervations, which arein a manner on all forts of Subjects, require a notion of the moft part of Arts and Sciences, fo hath he evidently demonftrated, that fo many different Employ- ments enough to have bufied feveral Perfons, have not at all diverted him from the Study of the moft ferious and difficult matters. ‘The truth is, he had Parts that could reach and command any thing, was ingenious in unravelling Difficulties, laborious. in Study , and conftant in purfuing what he fet about, { that he attaind to great knowledge in Natural Philofophy, Geometry, Aftronomy, and all the Mathematicks; and had efpecially ftudied the Philofophy of Defcartes, rather that he might with pleafure examine Natural Effe@&s in their Principles, than Magifterially di@ate and - decide, as thofe who now a days make a fhew of that Philofophy, commonly do, *

However, it is none of the leaft Encomiums of Monfieur de Tbevenot, that fo great Parts and fo much Learning, no way leffened his Zeal for Religion, wherein he has the univerfal Approba- tion of all who returned from thofe Countries, or have Written of him to their Friends, who all

extol

a

Fe a ES

| ‘extoll his Piety and Condu&, which: was Civil

Te PREFACE

and Regular, free from any of thofe Extravagan- cies, that commonly : decry bis : Ccuntrey-Men among other Nations. He had a Patience that no

| erofs Accident could fhake, an ufeful! Quality: to Travellers, but more particularly to all that Tra-

vel into the Levant; and which is much to his Praife; he had acquired'that Patience by Reflei- ons no les Chriftian than Solid, to wit, That no- thing befalls us, but by the Orders of Divine

Providence, that always takes care of us; and this

was often in his mouth as occafion offered. . He

had an eafie unaffe&ed Converfation; ‘and his na- tural and acquired: Endowments enabling him to fpeak pertinently on all Subjects, his company

was very agreeable; neverthelefs, he fhewed always

great R efervednels in difcourfing of his Travels, and was fo far from being importune upon that head,

that nothing but Civility and Complaifance could

“engage him to enlarge thereon; but then he did it

in {fo natural and fincere a manner, that he hath had the Art to leave all Men perfwaded of his Probity and Veracity; and whether that good Opinion has been {pread by thofe who knew him, or that his Writings bear a certain Air and Cha- racterof Truth ; it iscommonly the firlt Excominm

that chofe who knew him not, give him, (when

they have read hisTravels) that they are affured he {peaks the Truth. And fo much of the Illu- ftrious Author.

But nowas to the Englifbing of this Work, fince

the Tranflator has no body to Vouch for him, he

(a) muft

| Th PREFACE.

mufte’en leaveit to take its chance with the candid * and good-natur'd Reader; whom he would never- thelefs havesacquaited, that there weretwo or three words in the Original either not genuine French or — Obfolete, which no Dictionary Explained,nor any body that hecould meet with, underftood, and that thefehe hath made Englifh as near as he could to the fenfe of *the Context: Ifthe “more Critical Reader will needs Cavil at the Purity of the Stile; befides that the Stile of the Original is Plain and Natural; the Tranflator has this to fay for him- felf, that hewas fomewhat haftened and ftraitned in time, it being thought fit that this Book fhould

overtake the Travels of Sir fobn Chardin, of which — i

the <firft Part was lately Publifhed, that for its Reputation fake it might Travel over the Englib World in fo good Company, and give and receive thofe “Mutual Affiftances, which Travellers are willing to impart to one another. The Reader then, is not to expe& that the Language fhould. be fo Accurate, nor the Style fo well turned, as if it had come abroad after many Reviews and Cor- rections: However the Tranflator dares venture to affirm for himfelf, that in the main he hath not Swerved from the Authors Meaning ; and that if he has not magnified his Senfe, fo neither has

he deprelsd it. >

“Tests hoped the Reader will be fatisfied, that the Tranflator had reafon to Enghjb the following Letter, written upon occafion of fome words of Oriental Learning,that are varioufly Accepted, in the | ‘Book of the Coronation of Solyman, and in the Second MAT | | Part

Th PRÉFACE

i Part of our Authors Travels; for fince the Pub.

lifher of that Part thought ft to Confult a Lear- ned Critick in the Eaffern Languages, for the Ju- {tification of Monfieur de Thevenot, who differed from Sir fobn Chardin in fome Points of that fort of Learning, and that the Book of the Coronation

_ of Solyman, is now Publifhed in Enghfh; the Tran-

{lator could do no lefs than Verbatim to Engh

the aforefaid Letter from the Original, that fo if any thing be altered in the new Edition or ~ Tranflation of it, the ftate of the Controverfie

may appear as it was at firft, and the Author be Vindicated, according to the intent of his Friend, who cannot be fufpeted to have mif-quoted any

paflage of the Book, no more than the Tranflator

to have done what he hath done, out of any pre-

- judice to it, or its Author, who is a Gentleman altogether unknown to him. |

What Errata may be found in the Book, the Reader is defired to Correa, and not impute

them to the Tranflators Overfight, who had not

the Corredting of the Sheets.

A, LOVELL.

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LETTER

FROM

Monfieur dela Croix, SBR ETRY and INTERPRETER

TO THE

FRENCH KING

Touching fome Points of

_Baicutal Learning,

Containedinthe SECOND PART of thefe

AV

Shall Anfwer, Sir, in as few words as I can, the Note you did me the Honour to write to

m me, touching the apprehenfions you had, that fome words of Oriental Learning to be found in the Travels of Monfieur de Thevenst, may be found fault with,, becaufe you meet with them in another figni- fication, in the Treatife called, the Coronation of Soly- mdi; but let me tell you, Sir, that Apprehenfion feems to me to be inconfiftent with the Juftice you owe to that illuftrious Traveller ; and that fince you are not ignorant of the talents he poffeffed, it is your part to believe, that what he hath written, ~ muit be right, and whatever clafhes therewith cen- fureable. [iis Firft Travels into the Levant, gained (d) him

him the Knowledge of the Turki/h rnd Arabick Lan- guages ; and his fecond, of the Perfan: Thefe three Languages, which he was fo much Mafter of, and which are indifpenfably neceffary for the under- ftanding of Oriental Books, together with his skill in Hiftory, Mathematicks, Aftronomy, Betanicks, and other Natural Sciences, wherein he excelled, render’d him fo accomplifh’d in all Oriental Leara- ing, as you muft needs have found by his private Memoires, that there are but few in the Weftern : Parts who come near him in that, and none but may reap Profit from his Inftructions.

Nor do I in the leaft doubt, but that he who hath written the Book of the Coronation of Solyman, is of the fame opinion ; and for inftance, I cannot think he'll maintain that the word Mebter, which he attri- butes to the High Chamberlain of the King of Per- fia, and makes a Superlative by the fignification he gives it, is Arabick, when he finds that our Author affirms it to be a Perfan word, and Comparative, feeing its Superlative is Mebterin, which fignifies the Greateft.

‘Tam very confident alfo, he will be ready to con- fefs, that Toboat is an Arabick, and not a Perfian word, and that he’ll acknowledge, if he underftand Arabick or Perfian, that that word which fignifies Coffins, hath not the Character of Perfian Plurals, which commonly end in Ha, or in. An; but of Arabick.

As to the word Divan begbi, which he fays is cor- rupted from Divanum Begh, no fence can be made of that Propofition, Divanum Begh having never been - ufed, neither in Turkifh nor in Perfian, and is in- deed Non-fenfe. On the contrary, Divan beshr, which fignifies (as our Author fays) Lord of the Divan, is very good Turkifh, and exattly,agreeable touthe Syntax of that Language.

Nor have you any greater caufe of fear, for the

_ two words of Turban and Munedgim, you take notice

of to me, as made ufe of by our Author. The Au- thor of the Coronation of Solyman may fay what he will ; but he would have done very ill to have writ-

. ten

BO MRI cS M A Lu ten Dhulbant ; that would be a word as monfirous in a French or Englifh Book, as in the Mouth of him that fhould pronounce it. Turban is now a vul- gar European word, eftablifhed by Cuftome, and Dbulbandt a Perfian word, provided it were written according to its true Orthography, (for it ought to be written Dulband.) And when a European {peaks his own Language, and would be underftood, he ought not to ute Exotick words, when his own Country Language can, do the thing ; foas a Man {peaking French or Englifh would render himfel£ ridiculous, fhould he fay Chimichir inftead of Cimeter, though the one come from the other. ‘ But there is _. more to be faid as tothis ; for the word Dylhand fig- nifies not in Perfian, what in French or Englith is meant by Turban (as the Author of the Coronation of Solyman thinks,) and inftead of blaming Writers who underftood not the language, and of faying that the King’s Cap was tied found in manner of a Dhulbandt with a fine Cloth, he ought to have faid (fince he pretends that Perfian words are tobe ufed) that the King’s Cap was tied in manner ofa Deftar,which is the Turban, by a Dulband, or fine Cloth, feeng the Dulband is but a part of the Turban, which in Perfian is called Defter, asin Turkith Sarick, and only figni- fies the Cloth that is wreated about the Kaouk or Ca of the Jurban; and by a Turban, is underftood the whole Head-attire, after theFaftern way.

Now for the word Munedgim, which fignifies Aftrologer, and is ufed by our Author, there is no difpute to be made about it : The word Munebizym, _ made ufe of in the Book of the Coronation, is not a

word of the Language, and is indeed, infignificant ; but the word in queftion, is altogether a term of Learning, and is purely Arabick, the root of it being Nedgem, whereof the radical letters are Nun, Dgm, Mim, among which as you fee, there is neither H nor Z, and therefore it muft be Munedgim. | It is not the fame with the word Khanum, inter- preted in the Book of the Coronation, by that of _ Dutcheis ; it is more a word of Court than of Art, but for all that it is nothing the worfe employed by our

$ ak . ; hes

€

our Author, and thofe who are well acquainted — with the Court of the King of Perfia, fay as he does, that Begum is the Title of the Queens and Princeffes, — and Kbanum that of the. chief Ladies of his Serraglio, And I wonder, as well as you, at the meaning which is given to that word in the Book of the Coronation of Solyman, feeing it hath no Character that comes near } the Natural fignification of Khanum, and far lefs the Artificial, which at moft makes it only to fignifie a Beloved Lady. This word hath its Original from Galantry ; the Etymology of itis Khan, ufed in Per-

Jia chiefly to fignifie the Commander or Governour

of a Province or Town, and the two other letters, : or rather the Confonant #1, with the Vowel or Mo- tion that accompanies it, is an adjunct Particle, which both in Turkifh and Perfian ftands in place

ofa Pronoun poffeffive of the firft Perfon: Aind fo

the word Khanum fignifies my Khan, my Commander,

my Governour in the Mafculine-gender ,. which hath been given by the Kings of Perfia to the Women they paflionately loved, in the fame manner as fome “Amorous Man might in Englifh call a Lady who commanded all his affections, his Conquerour ; and

this is very far from the ferious fignification of Dutchefs, as it is found in the Book of the Corona-

tion of Solyman. :

And now, Sir, as to what remains of your Note,

to wit, the two words of Sarazins and Sof; certainly there is no fault to be found with the learning of Monfieur de Thevenot in neither of the two,; and when

he affirms that Sarazins comes from Sarak to Rob,

no exceptions can be taken thereat. There is much more to be faid againft the Etymology of that word mentioned in the Book of the Coronation of Solyman, notwithftanding the long differtation inferted in it,

and the infulting over thofe who therein are called . Relatien-makers, may and the ancient Hiftorians themfelves. How !. in God’sname, would he who hath written that Book, have. Sarazin to come from - Sara Netchim, and where does he find this Etymo- ‘ logy? If he have any Knowledge of. the Oriental Languages, which I cannot be pofitivein, as not -

having

a

having the honour of being acquainted with him, |, Ought he not to know when there is any queftion about Etymology, at leaft, in thefe Languages, that the Radical letters decide the point ? How then can Sarazins in French or Englifh, Saracen: in La- > tin; from which we have borrowed it, or in Greek Sacannvol, and in Arabick Sarakioun be der ived fr om Sara Netchim, ox (to gratifie his thought more) from Sara Nechin, teeing according to the very letters which he afligns to Sara Nechin, the chief character of Nechin, which. is the firft of Nun, is not at all in Sarazin, as the Chin which he eludes, and makes the Englifh his Vouchers for it, cannot, be. But from the Etymology, let us proceed to the Signification ; Where hath that Author foundthat Sara Netchin . fignifies thofe that feat themfelves in the Fields ? | This word hath feveral fignifications, which have

no affinity tothat. The word which fignifies a De® | fart, or barren Plain, is Sabbra, with.a bh,.which can in no manner of way, no more than the Sad, wherewith that word begins, enter into the Etymo- logy of Sarazins, feeing Oriental Authors have never uted a Hbanor Sad, in writing the Plural Sarakioun or Sarakin, Sarazins, whereof the Arabick root is Sarak to Rob (the chief bufinefs of that People) that hath for Radical letters a Sin, a Re, and a Kof, which Ko the.Greeks mark by a Kappa, and we as well as the Latins, bya C, the pronunciation whereof we have foftened by a Z, oranS, faying Sarazins or Sarafins, inftead of Saracins: Whereupon it is fur- ther to be obferved, that the Sarazins are not the Turcomans, aS is mentioned in the Book of the Corona- tion: Thefe laft came from the.fartheft North, and the Sarazins from the South. When firft the word Sarazins or Saracins came into ufe, it was not known what the Turcomans were. The name of Sarazins was given to the Ifhmaelitifh Arabians,or the Agareneans, to wit, the Arabs of the Defart, who live not in Towns, and who practice at prefent (as they did many Ages fince) the trade of Robbing, which got them the name of Sarazins, without doubt, long before the Englifh, who pronounce the Shinas : (e) eafily

‘ - - , =

: eafily as the French do, could have changed that -

letter of the Perfian Verb Netchinem, into a Zin, as it

is very ill fuppofed in the Book of the Coronation of |

Solyman.

The Atthot of the fame Book takes if il allo, te

that one fhould fay the Great Sof, Tpeaking of the

King of Perfa: Indeed that terin were to be blamed, _

if uted in {peaking or writing toa King of Per/ia, of even to a Perfian. Texeira and others have long ago ‘written, that it isa term nofto be ufed ; but they have not faid, that no King of Perffa ever car- ried: that name, as the Book of the Coronation does.

_ Thefe Perfons were too well acquainted with the

Oriental Fiiftory, to dofo. And when Monjreur de Thevenot writes Ifmael Soft, he makes it apparent enough, that he hath read the Eaftern Authors,

’ nd knew that the name of Sof hath been one of the

chief means which raifed the Family that at pre- {ent Reigns in Perfia, to the Throne. The firft King of it joyned the Name or Sirname of Soff, to that of J/mael, and took it in imitation of his Father and Grandfather, who had already made feveral Attempts. toraife themfelves by Power, abdve the reft of their Country-men : And both thefe Perfons affected to be called Sofies, that they might preferve in their Family the Reputation and number of

Friends; which their Anceftors, whom they aver- - . redto be defcended of Aly, by one of the Imams, had

acquired to them, when they were Chief of that

Order and Seét of Ses, in later times grown —

formidable. That-Sect, which in the time of its Piety, applied itfelfparticularly to Myftical Theo- logy and Contemplation,;wäs in Mahometanifim the moft Puritanical of all the Sects of the Haft ; and in the French Kings Library, there are entire Manu- {eripts of the Rules that it obferved. .

The great efteem that J/mal knew his Forefa-

thers had acquired under that Name, made him |

think it would be much for his advantage to take it; and he was not miftaken, for he was firft fol- lowed

lowed by all the Sofes, and thofe who were addic- ted unto them, by whofe means heE-ftablifhed the Belief, which his Father and Grandfather had but in a manner propofed, to wit, that Aly being the only true Heir of Mabomet, he was to be followed

> in all things, by thofe who would be faved. And

the truth is;.they conceived fo high an opinion of that Sof, that the Friends of his Family, with the Malecontents-and Innovators, -eafily joyned with him, and he as‘eafily employed them to deftroy * Farochk, Kingy or Sultan. of Schirvan, who had put to Death his Father Ardar.

This having fucceeded fo well with J/mael Sof, he found means afterwards to attack and overcome the other Sultans of Perfa, who were of the Family of Akkoionlu, and to mount the Thrane of the Empire himfelf. So that it is not true, that none of the Kings of Perfia ever bore the Name of Sof, though fince Ifmael’s time, thefe Kings have forborn to take it, having depreffed that Order ‘of the Sofes, for reafons that I could alledge elfewhere ; and befides, they ftood no more in need of Artifice to maintain their grandeur. This is that Sha Ifinael Sofi who gave occafion to the Kuropeans to call the Kings of Perfia Sofies, as from Cafar, they called the fucceed- ing Emperours Cefars ; and from Ofman or Othman, thofe of Zurkie, Ottomans. °

I muftalfo tell you, that one ought not to take exceptions, if he meet with fome diverfity in the pronunciation of Oriental words in this Book, efpe- cially when the queftion is about Vowels, or the Confonants Kha, Hba, Kef, and fome others: In dif- ferent Countreys they are varioufly pronounced ; * in fome places they pronounce Nameh, Bender, and Bazerghian ; and in others Namah, Bendar, Bazerghion : Some fay Kher, and others Hher ; fome Gomron , others Komoron, and fo in many others; but the _ figurative letters always occur in both the one and the other. | |

Thus

Thus you fee, Sir, that Monfreur de Thevenot is fufficiently Juftified, as to the points you fufpec- ted might be cavelled at, if confidered with rela- tion to the Book of the Coronation of Solyman, upon which I pretend not to play the Critick, nor indeed, have I fully examined it: And this Anfwer,though fomewhat long in refpeét of your Note, is only to fatisfie your defires, and that duty of Friendfhip — wherewith our Illuftrious Traveller honoured me, as well as the {trict Obligation that lies upon me, to have an eternal veneration for his Memory.

a

(57;

LAB EE

Qube TEE |

CHAPTERS

Contained in the

PIRSE: PART

BOO rE

| ; Page

Hapter I. The Authors Defign, and beginning of his Travels x Chap. II. Of Meffina, Scylla, and Caribdis 3 Chap. III. Sicily, Ætna |

4 Chap. IV. From Meffina ¢o Malta 5 Chap. V. Of Malta ibid, Chap. VI. Of the Caffles of St. Angelo ‘sd St. Erme . 7

Chap. VII. The City Valetta 8 Chap. VIIL Of the Grove, our Lady of Melecca, and [fe of Gozo 11° Chap. 1X. Fi the Publick Solemnity on our Lady-day iz September ib. Chap. X. From Malta to Conftantinople 12 Chap. XI. The Cape of Metapan, and Ifle of Cerigo 13 Chap. XII. The Ifle of Zia Chap. XIII. The Ife of Andra I Chap. XIV. Of the Dardanelles, Gallipoly, azd Authors Arrival at Conitantinople | 17 Chap. XV. The Situation and Defcription of Conftantinople 19 Chap. XVI. Of Santa Sophia, Solymania, and other Mofques 20 Chap. XVII. The Hypodrome,Pillars and Obelisks at Conftantinople 22 Chap. XVIII. Of the Grand Signior’s pea =) - 42)

Se A a

ir 4 i TEL Pa i Chap. XIX. Of the other Serraglios, Hans and Buildings at Conleaes tingple) Le x | 25 Chap. XX. Of Caflumpafha, Galata, Pera, 444 Tophana 27

Chap. XXI. Leander’s Tower, Scudaret, the Princes Ifle, and oh

Black-Sea 7 | 28 Chap. XXII. Of the Shape, Strength, Apparel, and Behaviour of the

Turks : 29 ;

Chap. XXUI. Of thetr Baths or Bagnios 31 Chap. XXIV. Their way of Eating, Drinking, and Lying. Of Coffee and Coffee-houfes,&c. À EL 2 V :

Chap.XXV. Their Exercifes, Games and Sports 34 Chap. XXVI. Their-Language; Sciences and Divination 36 “Chap. XXVIL. Their Difeafts and Cures, HA | 27 “Chap. XXVIIT. Of Mahomet andthe Alcaron "38

Chap. XXIX. Their Belief and Opinions + ib.

Chap. XXX. Concerning Angels - 1 40

Chap. XXXI. Concerning [uch Beafts as ball enter Paradife. 41

Chap. XXXII. Of Circumcifion

in

Chap. XXII. Of the Commands to be obferved in their Religion i Chap. XXXIV. Ofthe Ramadan, Hegyra, and Tuvkifh Tear 4 Chap. XXXV. Ofthe Bairam, the Turks Eafter 45 Chap. XXXVI. What rendersthem Unclean, and of their Ablutions 47

Chap.XXKVIL. The form of their Mofques, and hours of Prayers 48

Chap. XXVIII. Their Charity, and Pilgrimage to Mecha 50 Chap. XXXIX. Things Prohibited in their Religion 51 Chap. XL. The Minifters of their Law : 53 Chap. XLI. Their Marriages and Divorces 55

Chap. XLIL The Beauty, Manners and Apparel of their Women 56 Chap. XLTIL Their Mournings for the Dead, manner of Burial, and | Burial-places 57 Chap. XLIV. À Summary of the humours of the Turks 658 Chap. XLV. Of the Grand Signior | 66 Chap. XLVI. of the Grand Vifier, and other chief Officers of the Turkifh + Empire ne me. Oi Ges Chap. XLVII. Of ¢be Divan , 65 Chap. XLVIIL. Of the Oeconomy among the Turks, and of the Moneys, © Weights and Meafures at Conftantinople 66 Chap. XLIX. Of the forts of Punilbments, and the feveral ways of Exe- cuting Malefactors 17 Turkey 68 Chap. L. Of the Grand Signior’s Militia 69 Chap.LI. Of the Grand Signior’s eafie way in raifing and Haintaiing ‘great Armies LT 71 Chap. LIL of bes Weaknefs at Sea 73 Chap. LI. Az exact account of the Sea-fight between the Venetians and Turks at the Dardanelles, iz the Tear 1656 74 Chap. LIV. Of the great Sedition at Conftantinople, é2 the Year 1655

Chap. LV. Of the Chriftian and Tewilb Subjects of the Grand Genis their Cuftoms, and way of Living | 8r Chap. LVI. The Arrival and Audience of the Mogul’s Ambalfadour 84 Chap. LVIT. Of the Grand Signiors going abroad ia State 86 eo y Chap,

contained in the Firft. Part.

269 | | Pag. “Chap. LVL. The City Burfa ‘defcribed. The Hot Bagnios and Sepul. 8

chres there. 7 Chap. LIX. Fourzey from Burfa to Smyrna + go Chap. LX. ‘1 he Ciiy of Smyrna.defcribed 91

Chap. LXI. Chio Town defcribed 93 Chap. LXIL. Of the Maftick Trees, and other obfervables there . 95 Chap. LXUI..Of fome Villages in the Ife of Chio, and Apparitions, &c.

yd

there 7 «Chap. LXIV. .Of the Inhabitants of Chio,and their Manners, and of A =, Partridges there 100 Chap. LXV. Of the Ife Patino, or Pathmos 10 Chap. LXVI. The Ifle Nixia | ni

-Chap. LXVIL Of the Ifles Pato, Delos, Mycone, Tine, azdNio 105 Chap. LXVIL. The Ifle Santorini. A frange Eruption of. Fire there ‘107 Chap. LXIX. Of the fes Policandre, Milo, Sifanto, Thermia, Ajora,

and Scyra ‘108

«Chap. LXX. The Ifles Samos, avd Nicaria T10 Chap. LXXI, Of Stanchi amd Bodrou 112

Chap. LXXIL Departure from Bodrou, and Voyage to Rhodes 114 Chap. LXXIII. The Ifle and City of Rhodes. The Defcription and

Hiftory thereof i m5 Chap. LXIV. The Voyage from Rhodes to Alexandria 118

BOOK II

Hap. I. Of Alexandria 121 À y Chap.Il. The Walls there, the Pillar of Pompey, the Subterra- seau Lown, Cleopatra’s Palace, Porphyry Pillars, Talifmans, and

other Antiquities iw Alexandria 123 Chap. III. of Roffetto ; 126 Chap.1V. Of the Grand Caire 127 Chap. V. The Pyramids 130 Chap. VI. The Mummies 135 Chap VI. Old Caire 138 Chap. VIT. Of the Matharee, or Place where our Saviour lived, when

in Ægypt , 139 Chap. IX. The Caffle of Caire, and Obfervables there 140 Chap. X. The Palaces, Streets and Bazars of Caire 143 Chap. XI. The Ovens for Hatching of Chickens 144 Chap. XII. Of the Burying-place by Caire, awd the Bones that rife there

ox Holy-Priday 145 Chap. XHIT. Of the Cavalcade at the going of the Hazna, or Grand Sig-

asor’s Revenue, from Caire | 146

Chap. XIV. The Turks Carnaval * ibid. . Chap.

A Tab of 4 the Chapters ;

Bs ‘Pag. aies XV. Of che going out of Bafha Manfoul bp ~ Chap. XVI. Of the Preparations for the Journey to Mecha and Medica, 0 and the Prefents feat thither 149 Le €hap. XVII. Of the Departure of the Caravan, and its re to Me- cha 150 Chap. XVIII. Of Mecha, and its Defcrip¥ion 1 - Chap. XIX. The Ceremonies to be performed by the Pilgrims to Mecha, - in their Journey 153

~ Chap. XX. Of the manner of meeting the Caravan at its return 154 Chap. XXI. Mecha azd Medina, their Defcriptions 155 -€hap. XXII. Of the Letting in the Nile into the Street called Khalis,

‘& infra, 223 158 Chap. XXII, The Reception ¢ of the new Bafba at Caire 160 -Chap. XXIV.\ Fourzey from Caire to Suez 161 Chap. XXV, From Suez to Tor, and of the Camels, Dromedaries, An- … -telopes and Effridges in thofe Pits 163 Chap. XXVI. Of Tor, azd Mount Sinai 166 Chap. XXVIL The Mountain of St. Catherine 168 Chap. XXVIII. The Mountain of Mofes = ibid. ‘Chap. XXIX.: The Monaftery of St. Catherine 170 -Chap. XXX. Mount Horeb 171 Chap. XXXI. The Return to Suez ibid. Chap. XXXII. Of the Arabs, their Government, Horfes, and way of Livin 173 Chap. XXXIIL. Of Suez, and the Red-Sea HAUTS Chap. XXXIV. Returz from Suez zo Caire 176 Chap. XXXV. fourney from Caire to Gaza 177 Chap. XXXVI. Of Gaza avd Rama, and how the Pilgrims are received at Jerufalem * 189 Chap. XXXVII. 4 particular Deft cription of the Holy Places at Jeru-

falem 182 Chap. XXXVIIL The Authors firft entry into the Church of the a . Sepulchre Chap XXXIX. An exait Déféription of all the Obfervables in à Church 187 Chap. XL. The Burial-places of the Kings of Jerufalem, axd Grort of Jeremiah 192 Chap. XLI. The River Jordan, the Red-Sea, and Mount of the Forty Days Faft 194 Chap. XLIL The fecond entry into the Church of Holy Sepulchre 195 Chap. XLII. Of the Holy Fire pretended to be brought ont of the Se-

pulchre by the Greeks, Armenians, Cc. 196 Chap. XLAV. The Remarkable Places between Jerufalem and Be clche À 198

Chap. XLV. Of Bethlehem ,the Church and Remarkable Places there 199

Chap. XLVI. Of the Bethlehem Marks, and way of making them 201%

Chap.KLVIT. Of the Remarkable Places about Bethlehem 202

| eal Of the Mountains of Judea ; the Convent of the Bee Crofs —

ne XLIX. Bethany, PNR Mount Sion, the Houfe of Make éalen, the Houfes of Annas and Caiaphas, &c. a O4

| Chap.

contained in the Second Part.

» :

Pag,

Chap. L. The Authors third entry into the Church of the Holy CT

rx He is made a Kpight of the Sepulchre, the Privilege of fuch. A farther Defcription of the City of Jerufalem 206 Chap. LI. Of Emaus, aad Jaffa or Joppa - L299

Chap. LIL Voyage from Jatta to Acre; the misfortunes the Author mes

Ph. with from a French Corfair of Malta 208 2 Chap. LIL. À Defcription of Acre or Ptolemais air Chap. LIV. Of Nazareth, azd the Holy Places about it 212

Chap. LV. Of the Houfe of the Cananean, the Mount of the Beatitudes, the Mount of the Two Fifbes and Five Loaves, the Sea of Tiberias or Lake of Genezareth, Towz of Capernaum, Mount Tabor, and

other Places thereabouts 213 Chap. LVI. The Way by Land from Jerufalem to Nazareth 215 ‘Chap. LVII. The Road from Nazareth to Damafcus 216

Chap.LVIII. Ofthe City Damafcus, 444 Places of Note that are about

at ce à Chap. LIX. Return ro Acre. A Defcription of Mount Carmel, sd

the Convent there “* ‘219 Chap. LX. The Way from Acre toSour, Sayde, Baruth, Tripoly, 474

Mount Libanus, with the Remarks of thofe Places 220 Chap. LXI. The Road from Tripoly to Aleppo, by Damafcus 222 Chap. LXTi. Voyage from Acre to Damiette. Rencouster with Italian

Corfairs 224. Chap. LXIII. What happened on boardthe Corfairs, till his arrival at

Damiette " ; 226 ne Chap. LXIV. The Author’s departure from Damiette, and arrival at

Caire 231 Chap. LXV. The manner how they obferve and publifh the encreafe of the.

Nile "2 abid. Chap. LXVI. The Ceremonies and publick Rejoycings at the opening of

the Khalis | | : 232

Chap. LXVIL. The arrival of the Bey of Girge at Caire 235 Chap. LXVIIL The arrival of an Ambaffadour of Æthiopia at Caire,

with the Prefents he brought for the Grand Signior 237 Chap. LXIX. À Defcription of Æthiopia 233 Chap. LXX. Of the Efine, or publick Rejoycing at Caire iz the Anthor’s

time 241 Chap. LXXI. Of the Defarts of St. Macharius, and remarkable Places there : | 242 Chap. LXXIL Of Egypt, the Nile, the Crocodiles and Sea. Horfes in it, and the way of taking Crocodiles 245 Chap. LXXIIL The Manners of the Egyptians, the Worm-Woman at Caire, aid of the Arabick Language : 248

Chap. LXXIV. Females Cirtumcifed among the Moors. Their frange Dancing in their Religious Worfbip at Caire, and of their Santos 249 Chap. LXXV. Of the Cophtes, their Religion, and ftrange Belief

. 252

Chap. LXXVI. Of. the Franks that live in Egypt, and ‘of the Avanies, or continual Exactions of Mony which are put upon them ibid. Chap. LXXVIT The manner of celebrating the Greek Mafs by the Pa- triarch at Alexandria, and of hisVeftments 256 (g) Chap:

A Table of the Chapters, &e.

Pag Cc hap. LXXVIHL Of the Jews andTurksinEgypt io Chap. LXXIX. Lhe Punifbments ufed in Ecyrx 259 Chap. LXXX. The Inconveniences and Dipanpers which are a at mo Care TA - Chap. LXXXI. The Remedies fed by the Moors 5 heir Sickneffes 262 Chap. LXXXIL The Moneys and Weights of Egypt Mn duibides Chap. LXXXIIT. The Remarkable Hiftory of Don Philippo, Iie ui Tunis Chap. LXXXIV. The Voyage from Caire to Alexandria. of Fi - Hhouames 265 Chap. LXXXV. Arrival at Bouquer, with a Deferipron “f the Place. _ A dangerous Storm in the Port of Alexandria 265 Chap. LXXXVI. The Authors. Departure from Bouquer in an Englifb Ship. Commendation of the Englifh Sea men ; ape

Chap. LXXXVIL The Voyage from Bouquer.

Chap. LXXXVIII. The Ifles of Lampedola and Paget: of ne Corfairs met with at Sea. . The Arrival at Goletta ibid

Chap. LXXXIX. A Defcription of Goletta, and the Authors Arrival at Tunis 274

Chap. XC. Of the Countrey- -Houfes, and other Remarks about Tunis 275

Chap. XCL. A Defcription of Tunis,and of the Chriftian Slaves there 276

Chap. XCIT. Of the Dey, and ober Officers at Tunis, and of the Go- -

vernment there 277

Chap. XCIITL. Of the feveral Punifbments ufed at Tunis

20 Chap. XCIV. The Authors Departure from Goletta. The Ruins of

Carthage. A continuance of his Voyage 279 Chap. XCV. 4 Relation of a remarkable Engagement at Sea between an

Englifh Merchant-man and three Spanifh Corfairs, and the taking of one

of the Corfairs 282 A Relation of the taking of Babylon, otherwife called Bagdat, from the King of Perfia, by Sultan Amurath, 7# the Year 16 38 287

7 is | de. \#

—

TABLE

CHAPTERS.

Contained in the.

SECOND PART.

BOOKIE:

: Page Hapter I. The Authors Departure from Paris. His Journal M, ( | Marfeilles s0 Alexandria | + ï Chap. IT. Curiofities obferved during the Voyage, and at Alex-

andria | 6 Chap. II. Remarks in the way from Alexandria to Sayde, and from Sayde to Damafcus. The manner of making Sorbet at Rofletto” 8 Chap. IV. Defcription of the City of Damafcus ‘ 13 Chap. V. More of the Remarks at Damafcus : 19 Chap. VI. Journey from Damalcus to Aleppo 25 Chap. VIT. Obfervations at Aleppo, 42 exact Defcription of that City 30

Chap. VII. A Sequel of the Obfervations at Aleppo. - The Zineh, or

… manner of the Publick Rejoycing there 35 Chap. IX. The Road to Moful by Bir and Orfa, Of the River Euphrates. The Hiftory of Agabarus, King of Orfa 20: : Chap. X. The continuation of the Journey to Mofül by Codgiafar. The Countrey of Merdin azd Nifibin | 44 Chap. XI. OfMoful, azd the Obfervables there 50 Chap. XII. Cf the fiery Wind called Samiel. Their Kelecks, and the Authors Embarking in that kind of Veffel

53 Chap.

A Table of the Chapters

Pag.

Chap. XII. The Author’s Voyage on the Tygristo Bagdat. Of she LE ons, and other remarkable Beafts of thofe Parts 56 Chap. XIV. A Defription of Bagdat, and of the Road from Bagdat to Mendeli ™ 6:

BOOK II

er q :

EE

Va Hap. I. Of the Entry into Perfia, and Romiao Hamaden + # |

Chap. Il. The Road from Hamadan to Ifpahan — 72

Chap. III. Of Perfia ia general, the Soyl and Air 77 Chap. IV. 4 Defcription of Mpahan | I | Chap.V. A continuation of the Obfervations at Upahan, particularly of

their-Buildings- - À Di PU ONE if AT By Chap. VI. Of their Arts 87 Chap. VI. Of their Moneys, Weights and Meafures 89

_Chap. VUI. The Nature of the Perfians _ go

Chap. IX. Their Habits 4 gt

Chap. X. Their Diet and Drink : 94 Chap. XI. Of the Court of Perfia, the prefent King Schah Abbas, the Great Officers, Militia and Government there. Of two Mofcovite 4y-

baffadours at IMpahan 97 Chap. XII. Of their Aftrologers. AComet and Eclipfe there. And of the Super tition of the Perfians | TOs Chap. XIII. Of the Religion of the Perfians AG

Chap. XIV. Of the Jews, Guebres, Banians avd Armenians at I{pa-

han . IIL ~ Chap. XV. Of the Horfes, Mules, Camels, and fome Infectsthere 11 3 ‘Chap. XVI. Of the feveral forts of Fruits and Plants there ha

BOOK. Ill

Of the Country of Schiras, and other Bit. |

under the Dominion of the King of Perfa.

Hap. L The Road from Upahan to Schiras | ADS Dre Chap. Il. A Defcription of Schiras. The excellent Wine there 124 Chap. III. the Road from Schiras to Bender, with the Remarks on that Road * 127

J Chap.

\ LL

contained in the Second Pari: |

: . Pag, Chap.IV, 4 continuation of the Fourney to Bender. Of the Town of Lar 131

Chap. V. Of Bender-Abaffi, avd Ormus. The Authors Return to Schiras. Of the Potfonous Plant called Kherzehreh ; and of the sa Trees. Of the Dutch Factory at Bender 35

Sac nig Of the Antiquities to be feen betwixt Schiras and Weehet

Chap. V IT. OfTfchehel-minar avd Nakfi Ruftan, /uppofed to be en

Remains of the Ancient Perfepolis 142 Chap. VIIL The Road to Bender-Rik 1470 Chap. IX. The Voyage from Bender-Rik to Paffora i 151

Chap. X. A Defcription of Ballora 156 Chap. XI. More of Baflora. Of El- Catif avd Lehhfa. Of the Pearl Fifbing. And of the Sabeans, and their Religion ‘160

BOOK IV

YHap. I. The Voyage from Baflora to the Indies. More of Pearl Oa Efhing. A cruel Action of a Portuguefe 167 Cuap. (l. À continuation of the Voyage from Baffora to the Indies, 4

Lefcription of Congo. Of the Robbers called Zinganés 175 Chap. IIL Of Spouts at Sea, à large Defcription of them ; their Danger wi Effects ; and means tobe ufed againft them 18 4 Chap. IV. More of the Voyage totheIndies. _ The manner of heaving the Log. Of the Dorado or Dolphin. Of the Weather-Gall or Oxes Eye ; and other Remarks ia the Eatt-Indy Seas 190

oT ARE CHAPTERS

Contained in the

THIRD PART.

BOOK I.

Page

by the Cuffomers at Surrat Chap. II. The Limits of the Indies 3 Chap. Ill. Ofthe Great Mogul, and the prefent Emperour Auran-zeb 4

CG Hapter I. Voyage from Baflora to Surrat, and the ftritt fearch. I

Chap. IV. The Province of Guzerat 6 Chap. V. Of Amedabad, the Capital City of the Province 8 Chap. VI. ‘fourney from Amedabad to Cambaye 12 Chap. VII. 4 Defcription of Surrat 15 Chap. VIII. Of the Wine or Liquor called Tary 17 Chap. IX. The Weights and Monies of Surrat . 18 Chap. X. The Officers and Government at Surrat 19 Chap. XI. Bad Offices done to the French Company at Surrat 29 Chap. XII. The Marriage of the Governors’s Daughger there 22 Chap. XIII. Their Bursal-places, and way of burning Dead Bodies 23 Chap. XIV. Cursofities at Surrat 24 Chap. XV. The Port of Surrat 26 Chap. XVI. The Hiftory of Sivagy and his Wars | 27 Chap. XXVII. Of Father Ambrole the Capucin Oo

3 Chap. XVII. Of other Towns of Guzerat, and the SiegeofDiu 31

À

A Table of the Chapters, &c.

Pag.

Chap. XIX. The Province and Town of Agra | 7 2 Chap. XX. The Habits worn at Agra 36 Chap. XXI. Cwriofiries at Agra 38 XXIL The Province and Town of Dehly, the prefent Refidence of Au- ran-zeb’s Court 40 Chap. XXUI. The Arms ufed in the Moguls Countrey | 43 * Chap. XXIV. The feveral forts of Beafts at Dehly, and more particu- Larly of the Elephants Ad Chap. XXV. Curiofities at Dehly 46 Chap. XXVI. The Feffival on Auran-zeb’s Birth-day 47 Chap: XXVIL The Province and Town of Azmer 48

Chap. XXVIII. Their Fea? of Neurous or New years-day, aad Fair Chex. The frange Beafts of that Countrey, and of their Salt es Chap. XXX. The Province of Side or Sindy, and their fort of Carte Chap. XXXI. Of their Palanquins es Chap. XXXIL Of the Province of Multan, and the Banians or Mer-

chants

| 55 Chap. XXXII. The Province of Candahar 56 Chap. XXXIV. The Province of Caboul or Cabouliftan 57

Chap. XXXV. The Province of Cachmir or Kichmir

58 Chap. XXXVI. The Province of Lahors, and of 4 fort of Religious Mer there called Vartias | 60 Chap. XXXVII. Of the Provinces of Ayoud and Varad 62 Chap. XXXVIII. The Province of Becar. Ofthe Caftles. The feveral Tribes or Profeffions of the Indians, and their Religions 62 Chap. XXXIX. The Province of Halabas. Of the Faquirs, a kind of Gypfies 66 ati The Province of Oulefler or Bengala. Of the River Gan-

es 6 Chap. XLI. The Province of Malva. A ftrange fort of Batt there =i Chap. XLII. The Province of Candich, and great Town'of Bampour 71 Chap. XLII. The Province of Balagate. Of the Pyons of the Countrey,

Aurangeabad 72 Chap. XLIV. Of che famous Pagods (or Idol Temples) of Elora 74 Chap. XLV. The Province of Doltabad. Of the wonderful feats of

Agility of Body there fhewed | 76 Chap. XLVI. Ofthe Pagod (or Idol Temple) calledChitanagar 79 Chap. XLVIL The Province of Telenga, more of their Religion 80 Chap. XLVIIL The Province of Baglana, Towz of Bombain, @c. and

of the Marriage Rites among the Indians 82 Chap. XLIX. Of the Indian Widdows, their Cuftome of Burning them-

felves with their dead Husbands 85

BOOK

APE

A Table of the Chapters, &c.

BOOK II

Pa Hap. I. Of Decan, Malabar, Calcut, &c. and frange Cuftoms ai thofe Countreys ; and of the Malabar Alphabet 87 Chap. Il. Ofthe Revolutions in Decan 90 Chap. III. Goa, its Defcription, and prefent Condition under the a tuzals Chap. IV. The Kingdom of Golconda, and the great City of Bagnagar defcribed ce V. Of the Inhabitants of Bagnagar, and Diamond Trade there 2 Chap. VI. The Caftle or Royal Palace of Golconda defcribed 98 Chap. VIT. Of the King of Golconda sow Reigning to Chap. VIII. Of the Omras or Great Lords: of Golconda , and of the Winter at Golconda 102 Chap. IX. The Authors Departure from Bagnagar for Mafulipatan. The Road defcribed 174 Chap.X. His Departure frrm Bagnagar for Surrat. The Road deferi- bed. Remedies for the Cholick and Flux of that Countrey Chap. XI. Curious Memoirs of fome Mifcellany things. Of Cab Japan, avd Pegu, and the Trade there ICg Chap. XII. The Authors Departure from Suxrat for Perfia. His Death at Miaua iz Perfia 112

‘Errata.

} ,

ac 2

ERRATA.

PART I.

Age 3. Line 4. Dele foore, p. 4. 1. 16. f. Lilibeus, p. 5. 1. 3. 1. tenth, p. 12. 1.35. r. #4) P a day, pe 14. 1.15» 1. him, pe 20. L11. re cafemates, ibid. 1. 19. r. battlements. p. 21. 1. 23. T. carries, P. 22. Le 46. add 0, p.23. 1.23. r. Towers, p. 24. 1.27. r. and, p.40. lito. add who, p.56. 112 Te dirt, p.63. L 25. addof, p.8s. 1.51. r. be was, p. 87. 1.20. r. tuckeds p. 90. Lar. reall, p.93. L 25. dele then, p.95. 1.38. addto, p. ot. 1. 5. r. profound, p. 102. 1. 39. r. Naveus, pe 106. |. 41: add that, Pp. 141. 1. 32. r. ruinous, p. 178, 1. s 1. dele the firft (indeed,) p. 193. le 38. re Tiberias, Pp. 194. 1.38. 1.02, p.203. |. 19. r. Candace, p. 206. 1.57. 1 fleas, p.210. L 5. r. have been, Chap. LX. 1. Sour, Sayde, p. 227. 1, 4. dele bad, p. 246. 1.36. tr. keep them faft, p. 284 1. 41. re who having been taken on board, fome witb.

PART I.

Page 3. Line8. Read weeks, p. 5. 1. ult. for by the South, Read to the South, p.9. L 7. r. the manner, p. 19. 1.48. r. where that of ine forty Martyrs is, p. 32. 1.44. r. fit, ibid. L 50. dele hundred, p.37. 1. 59. r.chafuble, p. 44. À. 15. r.Curds, p. 46. 1. 19. re deferted, p. 48. 1. 20. r. Samiel, p.50. L 11. r. drew, p. 69. 1. 52. r. Brannew, p. 126. 1.19. r. Martimafs, p. 129. 1. 6. r. ft having at leaft feven or eight fathom in Diameter, p.135. & alibi. r. Dgins, p, 146. 1. 26. ï. Niches, p. 152. 1.55. r, Maps. .

PLAOR D UT.

Page 2. Line 48 Read timely, p. 3. 1. 37. r. 07; p.4. L 36. r. where, ibid. 1.43. r. Decan, p. 7. 1.44. r.faw, p. 8. I. 16. re the, p. 20. I. 6. r. imaginable, p. 25. 1. 38, r. Acacia, p. 58. 1, 38. r. by means of, p. 66. 1. 23. 1. foave, p. 73. L 15. r, Merous, p. 99. 1. 24. r. powder, p. tog, L 16. r. Ormus, p. 112. 1.28. r. Rubies.

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TRAVELS

ILE V The Firtt Part.

WHEREIN

The States and Dominions fubje& to the | | Grand Signior, the Manners, Religions, Forces, Go- | | vernments, Politicks, Languages, and Cuftoms of! the Inhabitants of that Great Empire, are curioully |

Handled.

TOGETHER | |

With many Particulars of the Archipelago, C onftanti- | — nople, the Holy Land, Ægypt, the Pyramids, Mummies, Defarts of Arabia, Mecha, and feveral other Places of

Afia and Africa, lately Obferved, and not hitherto Defcribed.

BESIDES, The Memorable things that happened at the laft Siege

of Babylon, otherwife called Bagdar : The Ceremonies at the Reception of the Ambafladors of the Mogul: And the Author’s Converfation with the Ambaflador of Preffer fohn, who among many other Things, gave him an Account of the Sources of the NIL E.

By Monfieur DE THEV ENOT. Now made eEngiith.

LONDON, Printed in the Year, 1687.

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ITRAVELS LEVANT. PART Eo se

GC HGA Pot The Travellers Defign.

HE defire of Travelling (which is as old as Human Nature) The defire of feems to be at prefent, a more prevailing paffion than ever: Travelling In all parts ofthe World we meet with Travellers, which more ardent confirm the truth of what I fay; and the many Printed Re- fia, ae : ° lations of their Obfervations which have been made Publick 5 within thefe twenty years, put it outofalldoubt. All who are curious, delight in the Rarities they fee, arid there are but few, who if they were not otherwife engaged, would not willingly be themfelves the witnefles and fpectatours of them: Thefe pleafing Relations raifed in my mind the firft thoughts of Travelling, and feeing inthe Year one thoufand fix hundred fifty two, I had no confiderable Affairs that might obftruct my inclination, I eafily refolved to follow it. Ibegan with England, proceeded The _ begin- by Hollandand Germany, and then vifited Jealy; but till Ihave paft Naples, I ning of the fhall make no particular /Obfervation of thefe Countries, fince thofe things Author’s Tra- that recommend them to ftrangers,are fufhiciently known to all my Countrymen: vels. having fatisfied my curiofity with all thatRome could afford,I refolved not toftop there, but to advanceand inform my felf of what was worthy of knowledge in other Countries,whereof I had butimperfectConceptions: But then it behoved me to confider which way I fhould direct my Travels,and,that Imight not Travel in vain,provide my felf of means and neceflary inftructionsto render them ufeful. - God Almighty offeredme an occafion; for at Rome I found a French Gentleman, A very lear. who ferioufly applied himfelf to the knowledge of the Affairs of the Levant ; he "4 Man. was in fo high reputation among the Learned, that he was courted by all who loved folid Learning, becaufe in him alone they found abundantly, what was but very rarely to be met with amongft all others. Though the greateft part of his time was taken up in converfation with the moft learned Cardinals,and the other moft confiderable Prelates of Rome ; yet I made fo good ufe of hisacquain- The Authors Ma tance, thathe was pleafed to admit me into his Friendfhip, and I admir’d Friendhip to find by experience, the truth of what I had been told by others: At firft I with 2oun-

found him to be a man fo accomplifhed in Liberal Sciences, and inthe Greek and £24" Herke-

lote bs ue B Latin

2

po eee acco ener aps iad

Pare à LatinTongues,that he might be ranked among the ableft Profeflors of the fame ; and fo much Mafter of the Hebrew, that he not only underftood Hebrew Books, but all the Rabins tothedepth ; and he Difputed againft the Jewifh Doctours or Hakans, to whom he explained the. Prophets and Old Teftament with fo much advantage to our Faith, fo fubtilly, and with fo goodtfuccefs, that 1 dare be bold to fay, he ftartled and fhook moft of them: They were fo taken with his Learning,that they importuned him with their vifits, and (after a converfation' of three or four hours continuance, with their Books in their hands) 1 have feenthem taketheir leaves of him with regret, for that it feemed, that the time which he was obliged to beftow upon hisother friends, was robbed from them. He was nolefs skilfulinthe Chaldaick and Syriack Tongues ; at that time he excelled in the Arabick, Turkifh and Perfian Languages, whereof he hath fo well improved the Books fince, that Imay confidently fay, he is inall

Travels into the LEVANT.

Or a EEE nant

=

thefe Languages the moft knowing man in Europe. I place not only his Skill in -

the fpeaking of thele Tongues, and underftanding their Books, but chiefly in their Learning and Knowledge of moft things ef the Eaft; whereof he never {peaks but fo intelligently,that almoft all that hear him are ravifhed and furprifed with his Erudition. This knowledge of fomany Oriental Languages, hath fo accomplifhed him in all kind of Hiftory, both Ancient and Modern, from which he hath collectedfo many particularities,that our Geographers and Hiftorians do but feem to be in the dark asto thofe things which he could make out wither. tainty: Heisno lefsknowing in other Sciencesthan in Languages, and being of a humour far from vanity, and the temper of thofe Learned men, who difdain to converfe with fuchas know lefs than themfelves ; but on the contrary, making a myftery ofnothing, and frankly difcourfing with any man upon what Subject he propofes, informing him of that he knows; I failed not to embrace the

occafion, and make the beft of afriendfhip that was fo ufeful untome. He ~

imparted to me all that he had learnt from the Levantines, with whom he had converfed,not only as to their manersand method of conduct,but alfo as to what circumfpections I was to ufeon many occafions ; and in fhort, he made me determine to Travel into the Lewamt. Iwas overjoyed when he told me that he himfelf intended to make the voyage, I-hugg’d my felfa long while, in hopes of fo good company ; and made no doubt but that with fo great afliftances, I might be able upon my return, to give the World an account of all the Rarities that the Eaft produces in Learning, Art and Nature: But when we were upon the point of embarking, there happen’d to Monfieur Herbelct ( thaggwas the Gentleman’s name) a domeftick Affair, of fo great confequence, thaWmt inter- rupted bis defign, and cbliged himto defer his departure: 1 patiently bore with that misfortune, becaufe he promifed to meet me at AZcira, and feeing I had put my felfin a readinefs to embark in one of the Pope’s Gallies, that was to touch at Naples, into which the Frezch at that’ time had ro admiffion ; he advifed me not to let flipfo fair an opportunity, and accordingly Ididnot. I parted from Rome on Monday, May 31. 1655, and Sune 2. embarked at Civita Vecchia, in the Galley commanded by the Count Gadd:, from whom I re- ceivedall the teftimonies of a nobleGenerofity. The fourth of Fuze the Gallies ftopt eight miles from2Vaples : And the fifth being fpent in the Paflengers veiwing of that City, we parted’ on Sunday the fixth of June, towards the evening, ‘and made fail for Sicily: We faw in our pailage the fire of the Mountain of the Ifle of Stromboli,and I was told that they who were near it.heard great howlings, which proceed not from Hell (of whichthe filly peopleofthe Country think the

_top of this hill tobe the mouth) but from the violence of the Winds ; which

breaking impetuoufly into the vaft concavities that have been hollowed by the Sea, and there kindling in the fulphur-mines, whereofthat Country is full, the flame that has made and prefervedto it felf a paflage through the Mountain, makes a noife liketo the howlings of thedamned. Tuefday the eight of Fuxe, about night, we pafled the Phare of Meffiza,and next day, Weduefday, the ninth of Fune we came inthe night-time, before Meffinz, and dropt Anchor without the Port. Thurfday, the tenth of Fuze, we went afhore, and walked about the pond with more freedom than we had done at Naples: 1 fhall fpeak of it in ort.

CHAP.

\

D eee aaa Pe Pare L Travels into the LEV anv. 3

D CHA P. I Of Meffina.

WHE Town of Aefina lies on that fide of Sicily which looks to Rhegio, in Méefina. Italy, from which it is but Threefcore Miles diftant. It is fituated in the place where the Town of Zande ftood, and had the Name of Adffina, from Zande. the Mdeffinians of Peloponefus, who built and inhabited it ; it hath a fafe Harbour, made fo by Nature, which would feem to have been meafured with the Com- pafs, fo round and proportioned it is.. On the Shoar, round this Port, there are feveral fair Palaces of uniform Building, which offer a pleafant Profpe& to thofe that enterthe Port, but they have not been continued. Attheend of the Mole, which fhuts in this Port, there is a Tower to fecure the Entry; much about the middle of the faid Mole ftands another Tower, on the top of which there is a great Light kindled every night, to let Ships out at Sea know where they are. This is but a kind of a melancholy Town, though the Streets be fair and large ; in viewing of it, I faw written over the Door of the Cathedral Church,in pretty large ancient Characters, Gan-Wercp a Welline; when the French became Mafters of Sicily, Adeffina was the firft place that furrendred unto them, and that the memory of it might be preferved, they caufed that Infcription tobe made. Before this ftately and large Church, there is a great Square or Piazza, with a Theatre in the middle of it, where the Victory of Lepanto is reprefented on Brafs, and a a Statue of Don Fehn of Auftria ftands. The Novitiate of the Jefuites fta nds upon a Hill higher than any placeof theTown; and feeing the whole Town and Harbor may be {een from the Gardens of it,{ readily embraced the offer that aJefuite made me of carrying meto them: Having pafs’d through fome fpacious walks, he led me to a very high Garden, .. from whence he fhewed me Scylla and Charibdis, which heretofore rendred that es Streight fo dangerous, that all that pafsd it thought theinfelves certainly loft. | Scyllais a Rock,pretty near a Caftle, on theïlralian Shoar,over againft the Phare of Meffina;, this Caîtle is called Scyllio, from whence that Rock hath had the Name of Scylla. As for Charibdis, it is near and oppofite to the Port of 44/f- fra, but is not dangerous but when two contrary Eddies meet,which making Veflels turn round for fome time, fuck them down to the bottom without remedy: To avoid them, one muft keep as near, or as far off of the Port as poflibly can be, for the danger is in the middle, betwixt the Port and the Land of Italy, on the other fide. Though the greateft danger be inthat place, yet the Port is not free from it, for the Jefuite told me, that it hath fometimes happened, thata Ship being got into the Harbour, and having faluted the . Town, hath been carried out again by the currents, and caft away in fight of © the place. The old Proverb, Incidit in Scyllam cupiens vitare Charibdim, was not faid without reafon ; for when Men have avoided the danger of one of thefe Rocks, they may very eafily fall upon the other, if they have not acare: The Fable which faid, that Charibdis and Scylla were two Sea Monfters, furrounded with Dogs that barked, has its original from the great noife thefe Waters make, by beating and clafhing one againft another; fo that, efpecially when they beat againft Scylla, one would think it were the barking of great Dogs. Now to prevent the cafting away of Ships in thofe Paflages, the Meffinefes have always a great many Pilots purpofely in readinefs, and payed _ by the City, of whom there is always one ftanding Sentinel upon a high Pilots hired Tower; and when Ships, or other Veflels, finding themfelves in imminent dan- bs Mcfi- ger, fire a Gun, thefe Pilots fail not to put off in their Boats and affift them. “? The Jefuite led me into another Garden higher than the reft, hard by which there is a Baftion that Commands the Town, and all that Houfe of the Jefuites ; B2 he

Part J.

Eighteen Ca-he told me that there were eighteen ftrong Caftles in Meffinz, of which the files in Me Spaniards held but four, the reft being in the hands of the Meffinefes, who are fe Mefirefe fo jealous of the Spaniards, that thefe having built a Fort at the end of the Port, jealous of the they made another on the oppofite fide of the Water, a Musket fhot only diftant Spaniards, from that of the Spaniards. ‘This is a very rich Town, by reafon of the great Trade in Silk that is driven there: They have no Inns for Strangers, which is a great inconvenience to them, being obliged to lodge in a wretched Tavern upon the Harbour, which they call the Barraque, where the Entertainment is very bad: All things are cheapthere ; the Wine is ftrong, but very bad ; and

this City is an Archi-epifcopal See.

4 Travels into the LEvAN T.

CRAN Pee

*

Of Sicily.

mee of Sici. (AT CILY isanIfland of a Triangular Figure, the point ofeach Angle ma- Cin Difaro. king a Cape; one of thefe Capes is called Capo Difaro, the other Capo Capo Pajaro. Paffare, and the third Capo Boco, which in ancient times were called Pelorus, Capo Bocoe Pachinis and Lilibærus : Many think that heretofore it was joined to Jtaly,from Pelorus. which it is but three miles diftant, but that it was feparated from it by the Z acbiniss force of the Sea, which made to itfelfa paflage betwixt them; and others fay iliberus. . L it was done by an Earthquake. à The phareof This Streight which is now beta the Ifland and Calabria,is called the Phare Mefina dan- of Meffina, and is moft dangerous t8 be pafled, not only becaufe of Charibdis gerous. and Scyllaz, but alfo becaufe the two points of Land of the Continent and Ifland are in a manner locked one within another. This is the moft confiderable Ifland of the Mediterranean Sea,as well for bignefs,which is near feven hundred miles in circuit, as for its fruitfulnefs ; for it produces all things in abundance, and becaufe of its plenty of Corn,excellent Wines, Olives, and many other fuch things,it was heretofore called one of the Granaries of Rome. It contains a great Mount Gibello. many very fair and rich Towns, but it is much infefted by Mount Gibello, an- Fite ciently called e#ta, which continually cafts forth abundance of flames ; it is alfo much fubje&t to Earthquakes, which make ftrange havock init: It hath been under the Dominion of many Nations, and hath belonged to the Greeks, Carthaginians, Saracens, French, and laft of all to the King of Spain, whohas a The Vice- Vice-Roy there, that holds his Refidence fix Months of the Year at Palermo, and Roy of Sicily, the other fix at Adeffina. This mixture of fo many different Nations (of whom ee he all Sicily hath retained fome vice) has made the Sicilians fo ill natured, as they are The Manners at prefent : they are very haughty and jealous, and there is no vice that comes of the sic. amifs to them; Revenge continues in Families there for hundreds of Years, and ans. as their temper is extremely vindicative, they are fo miftruftful of the French, becaufe of the cruelty of the Sicilian Vefpers, that judging the nature of the French by their own, they think that the other can never forget an affront that coft fo much blood, and was never heretofore paraïleld. They wear always by their fide a Dagger two hands long, and three fingers broad, and you fhall not find a Tradefman in his fhop without his Dagger by his fide, even when they are at work: They are of a fubtile and malicious Wit. | |

CHAP.

1

Part I. Travels into the Levant. ine

CH APT ‘ From Meffina io Malta.

\ A TE parted from before AÆffira, Thurfday, the Twenty fourth of Sune, From Mefina with acontrary Wind, fo that do what we could with our Oars, we to Malta. were obliged to come to an Anchor again near the Port of Meffina, three hours

after we had weighed from it; however we weighed an hourafter, though the Weather was ftill the fame, and the Sea alittle rough. Friday, towards the Evening, we came to an Anchor before Agoujta, but we went not aShoar ; I was Agon/ta. told for my comfort, that it was no more but a very ordinary Street, as

indeed it feemed to meto be. The Countrey about it produces excellent Wine,

which has a ftrong flavour of Violets ; we weighed Anchor from before that

Town, next morning being Saturday, the Eleventh of Juve, and coafted along

before Syracufe, called at prefent, by corruption, Saragouffa, the Countrey of Syracufe. Archimedes, which was formerly the Metropolis of Sicily: The Countrey about Saragoufias Saragouffa produces excellent Mufcadine Wine ; we ftopt not before that Town,

but continued our courfe with the diverfion of Dolphins and Tunnys, which leaping out of the water in great numbers, followed the Gallies. Sunday, the Twelfth of Fune, about Six aclock in the Morning, we had an Eaft North Eaft

Wind, which droveus fo faft, that about Eleven a clock the fame Morning we

made the Ifleof Alta, and about Four in the Afternoon entered into the Port

of the Town: All the Guns were fired from the feveral Caftles of A4zlta in ho-

nour of the Pope, who was newly Elected, and to falute his Galleys, which returned the Salute, by feveral difcharges of all their Canons.

CHA PV Of the Ile of Malta.

HE Ifle of alta lies in the African Sea, betwixt Sicily and Tripoly, of The Situation Barbary ; it is Threefcore Miles diftant from Sicily, and an Hundred of the Iile of from Africa; in the Latitude of eight and thirty degrees, and the Longitude of @“"* four and thirty; it reaches from Eaft to Weft twenty miles in length, and is about twelve over, fo that it is threefcore miles in compafs. The ancient Name of this Ifland was Æ4lita, from the Greek word Ali, which fignifies Honey, becaufe it affords good Honey ; at prefent it is named Malta, from the word Æfelita, though thofe of Barbary drawthe Etymology of itfrom a Story of theirs: They fay, That heretofore the Adcors of Tripoly being di- vided into two Factions, under two Scheiks, or Captains, and being in con- tinual Wars one with the other, thofe of the weakeft fide refolved to forfake the Country, and golive fome where elfe ; and that for that end they fent men out to Sea to find fome proper place for their Habitation: Thefe Men finding the Ifle of A4Zalta, judged it to be very convenient for them, and upon their return, their Schesk having asked them if they had found any place, they anfwered in their Language, Lakeinadgeire eledia fiel ma on tah, which is to fay, We have found an Ifle where there is Water and Plains, and of that ma ou tab, they fay, that by corruption it is called AMdalra, There was an ancient King pays, King of this Ille, called Batts, a Rich and Powerful Prince, who was a great Friend of Malta to Dido, Queen of Carthage. It was afterwards fubjected to the Carthaginians,

and

6 Travels into the Levant. i Part. L

and having been in procefs of time faccaged and ruined by à Raman Army, un- Roger, a Nor- der the Command of A£ Atrilius, was fince annexed with Sicily to that Empire, man Prince, ti] being upon its fall, it was poffefled by the Saracens, ftom whom Roger, a ee nade Norman Prince, Count of Scicily, took it in the Year 1090. Since that time, : SAR it hath always been in the hands of Chriftians ; and inthe Year 1530, Charles Charles the the Fifth gave it and the Ifle of Gozo to the Knights of Ferufalem, who were Fifth gives wandring up and down for the fpate of eight years, after they had loft Rhodes, Malta to ie and have been ever after called Kaights of Malta. This Ifland is low, being Se only a white foft Rock, very proper for Building and making of Lime, but With the [fe does not long refift the Sea Winds, efpecially the South Eaft Wind, that eats of Gogo. it away: There is but very little Earth upon the Rock, and that ftony too, fo that one would think it could bear nothing at all ; neverthelefs it produces very good Fruit, but chiefly Figs, which are as good as in Provence ; and fach excellent Melons,for the moft part white, that it 1s hard to find a bad one amongft them ; they are at no pains in raifing of them, they only throw the Seed into the Ground like Corn, and take no care to preferve them. The Grapes that grow there are excellent to eat, but not to make Wine of ; they have a thick skin, and are flefhy, like Plumbs within. They plant Cotton, which thrives very well; but fow very little Corn, for Sicily furnifhes the Ad4altefe with The temper as much as they need. The Air there is fo hot, that there is no walking oy +e Ait Of abroad in the Sun ; and the nights are infupportable in the Summer time, not at only becaufe of the great heats, but alfo of the A4usketoes, that are fo trou- blefome there, that they put the face in a gore of blood, efpecially of new Comers, whom they eafily diftinguifh, fo that when a Man rifes in the mor- ning, he looks like one juft come out of the Small-pox. There is no Winter in this Ifland, nor no need of warming one’s felf by the fire; onthe contrary, they always drink their Wine with Ice. The Airis very thinand wholfom for Old Men, who can hardly die; but Head-aches are dangerous there, and fore Eyes, becaufe of the whitenefs of the Earth, which makes many Com- ae Spe- manders and Kaights to wear green Spectacles,though I cannot tell but that the 1 Glafs by contracting the beams of the Sun, may burn their Eyes. There is no venomous Creature upon that Ifland, and none can live there, which isa St. Paul much Miracle the Inhabitants afcribe to St. Pl, to whom they are much devoted, reverenced in and believe that it is an effect of the Benediction which that Saint gave, after Malta. his Shipwreck, when he was attacked by the Viper mentioned in the xxviii. of the 465 of the Apoftles; from which having received no hurt, they were fo The Earth of amazed, that they Believed ir God. They give the Earth of the Grott where St.Paul sGrott. he was, for a Remedy againft the ftinging of Serpents, and other poyfons ; nay, againft all putrid and malignant Fevers alfo, with better fuccefs than the Terra Sigillata, as many have found by experience, having thereby recovered their health;they attribute thisVirtue alfo to theBenediction of St.Paul,and feve- ral Barks are yearly loaded with it, to be tranfported into other places of Chri- ftendom. Amongft the Rocks of this Ifland,they find thofe Stones that Iook like The Stone of a Serpents Eye, which fome carry upon their fingers, fet in Rings, becaufe of the Serpent’s the virtue that they are thought to have againft poyfon. This Ifland is very Eye. populous, and when, in the Year 1590, a Calculation was made of the number of the Inhabitants, by Command of the Count of Alvadeli/ta, Vice-Roy of Naples, that he might know what quantity of Corn was neceflary for them; they found in the Bourg, the Old Town, the Town of Valetta, the Ifle of St. Michael, and in feven Parifhes, which contain above thirty fix Villages, feven and twenty Thoufand Men, not reckoning the Knights of the Order, and their Servants. The Adzlrefe are of a brown complexion, and are much of the nature of the Sicilians, at leaft, in point of Revenge. The Women are beautiful and pretty familiar ; in the ftreets they cover their heads with a Man- tle that reaches down to the ground, but though they hide their own face, yet they fee every body without being known. The Native Language of the Ifle of AZalta, is Arabick, but the Jtalian is very common there, efpecially i the Town. | The Ifle of Alta hath feveral Ports and Creeks, well defended by Forts Marfamouchet, built upon them ; but, amongft others, there are two great Havens open to

Pam the Eaft North Eaft, one of which is called Mer famenchet, and the other i the

=

ari. oe rer | Pr mm Part i. À ravels inte the LEVANT. oo em great Port ; thefe two Ports are feparated by a tongue of pretty high Land, on the point whereof the Caitle of St. Erme was built, and fince adjoyning to it, the City Valetta: The Port of Marfamouchet is for Ships to perform their quarantine in, before they have accefs to the Town, and for fuch as by reafon of foul weather cannot get into the great Port; as alfo for Cafairs, who coming only for a fhort ftay, put not ininto the great Port, becaule it is not eafie to get out again. There is a little Ifland in this Port, and in it the Lazaretto, where they who are to perform their quarantine, lodge: The great

Aca ee

bas

Port contains feveral Havens within it, and is fecured by two Rocks,one on each Many Ports fide of the Entry; on that which is on the right-hand, the Caftle of St. Erme 1 Malra.

is built ; in foul weather it is very dangerous to come near it, and fpecial care muft be had both in coming and going out of it; having pafsd thefe Rocks, you fee to the left-hand a Haven, wherethe Veflels that come from the Levant, and are not to ftay at A4z/ra, put into, that they may be feparated from the reft ; advancing a little further, you pafs betwixt the Town of alerte, which

is to the right-hand, and the Caftle of St. Azgelo, to the left, flanding upon cafe of st. the point of a tongue of Land, along which lies the Bourg, at the back of the Angeloin ate

faid Caftle ; after that you find another Haven to the left-hand, which is very #

good and fafe, and is betwixt the Bourg and the Ifle of Sangle, which is a tongue Mle of Sangle.

of Land, inhabited, almoft like to that of the Bourg, to which itis parallel ; thefe two tongues, reaching from Eaft to Weft, like two fingers of a hand. The Galleys of the Order are laid up in this Haven, and all the Veflels that are to make any ftay at alta, either to load, careen, or refit, put in there, it being fhut with an Iron Chain. There is a little Haven at the bottom of this Port ftaked in, where, in the Evening, all the fmall Barks are fhut up, left Slaves might make their Efcape in the Night-time: Beyond the Ifland, there is Water, further up, but it is of no depth; from the entry of the great Portto the extremity, or rather bottom of it, it is, at leaft, two miles. 9, |

| CAL À Ps VL Of the Caftles St. Angelo aU St. Erme.

Sfoon as the King of Spain had given the Ifland of Malra to the Knights Caftles.

of St. Fohn, Philip de Villiers, l Jfie-- Adam, who at that time was Great Mafter of the Order, came and took pofleflion of it, and lodged in the Caftle

St. Angelo. St. Erme. ‘ The Great

of Se. Angelo, as the reft ofthe Order didin the Bourg : But Sultan Soliman not fa- Mafter pile

tisfied with the {fe of Rhodes, out of which he had driventhat illuftrious Order, tiers.

having a defign utterly to extirpate thofe meg, who though but few in number, had put him to fo much trouble, and from whom he was ftill apprehenfive of

more mifchief, fentin the year 1565,a powerful Army to take the Ifle of A4alta : Soliman fent It arrived therein the month of July, Friar Foba of Valetrabeing then great Mafter, and Ectieged and landed towards Adount Peleorino. The Turks prefently attacked the Caftle St. 14/4:

Evme,which wholly defends the Entries into the great Port andar famouchet;they

La Vallet, ‘ 5 Seas ee : Great Ma- . raifed their Batteries inthe place where the Town of Valetta ftands, which was feer.

not. then begun to be built, and battered that Caftle fo furioufly, that having Mount Pele-

killed allthat defended it,they made themfelves Mafters of the fame: Then they

turned againft the Bourg and the IfleDe /a Sangle. The Country isdefended by the y,

Caftle St. Angelo,which ftands at the end of it on the fide of the Port, upon a ve- ry high Rock, and difficult to climb up ; fo that it is almoft inacceflible: The Ifle De la Sangle is defended by a Baftion on the point of it: They gave feveral Affaults to both thefe places, where they landed many thoufand Men, but all in vain; for they were ftill repulfed with great lofs. Inthe mean time,though the Caftle St. Angelo did fo continually annoy them, that they durft not fhew them- felvs, yet they battered the [fle fofurioufly, that they ruined the dr aoe | refolve

Lrin0.

Siege of te

\ |

Q Travels intothe LEVANT. ~ Part I.

refolved to makea general aflault, becaufe, being Mafter of that Ifle, they could a The Port of break the Chain that fecured the Port, which was ftretched from the Caftle St. Malta fecured Azgelo to the Spur of the faid Ifle. The Great Mafterhaving notice of their re- byaChaine folution,caufed Port-holes to bemade in the Caftle St. Angelo level with the water, K without opening them on the outfide,yet fo contrived and made, that a knock of pa a Hammer might give them en opening wide enough for his defign: He there caufed Gunsto be planted with all expedition: Whenit was day, the Turks fent “—<—<-—-—= -offa great many Boats manned with Soldiers, to give the aflault to the Spur of the Ifle, and at the fame time the Canon of the Caftle St. Angelo appearing le- vel with the water, fired with fo good fuccefs, that the Boats being funk, all the Men-were drowned: They made afterwards many vain attempts, but finding fuccours come from Chriflendom, and defpairing of. the Enterprife, they drew off. They parted from the Ifland about the end of September, 1565. ha- : ving for the fpace ofthree Months, in vain, employed a vaft Army againft a hand- ‘The Knights ful of men, but very valiant, as thofe at prefent are, whofo moleft the Turks q of Malta ter- with feven Galleysonly, that they look upon no Enemy to be fo formidable; and oe to the commonly, how many foever thefe Infidels be, when they percieve any of the aire Galleys of Adalta, they fail not torun for it, and, afmuch as they can, avoid any Engagement: Since that time the breaches of the Caftle St. Azgelo have never been repaired , Nature of it felf making it {trong enough.

CH-A P. : Vil. Of the City Valetta. a,

Valetta, A F ter the Tuzks were gone, the Religion refolved to build a new Town,where the Great Mafter with all the Religion might commodioufly dwell, and for

that end they pitched upon the tongue of Land, on the end whereof the Caftle

St. Erme ftands, from whence the Turks had fo furioufly driven them. The great

Mafter La Valette layed the firft Stone of it,on the Twenty eighth of A4arch, 1566.

and,from his own Name,called it the City Valerta,whereuponthis Punn was made

The valour of Plus valet valor Valette quam fortitudo Valette, playing upon the Names ofthe the Great Ma-Great Mafter and Town. It hath been ever fince fo fortified, that I am very fier Valetts ant tobelieve few Fortifications in the world can match it.. The Entry into the Port of it, is defended by the Caftle St. Erme,which, at prefent, is impregnable, there being no way to batter it but from the New Town, which encompafles it by Land; and, on the other, fide towards the Sea, it is inacceflible, as being built upon a very high Rock. Next ip this Caftle is the Baraque, where nine Pieces

Baraque. of Cannon are Planted under cov’:

r , which hinder any approaching to the Port: pas The entry of the Port is belides defended by the Bafton of Sealy; which is very of Italy in Mel. high,and Planted with fix Pieces of Cannon that lye open. Upon this Baftion a. there is a fair Bafilick,or Canon-Royal,which, with another of the fame fize the A fairCanon- Turks left on Malta,when they raifed the Siege; for being in hafte to be gone,and Royal of the ynable to put on board thefe pieces,becaufe of their prodigious weight,they threw hia at Mal one of them into the Sea, near the Land, where ftill it is, and cannot be weighed,

à and the other remained on fhoar. On the other fide of the Port; is the Caftle St. Angelo, which ftill defends it; and on the fame fide, without the Port, but near the entry of it, upon a point of Land, there is a Tower withtwo or three Pieces of Canon, which ferves, alfo for fecurity of the Port. . The Governour of . the Bourg takes care to fend Men thither to guardit. This Town is nolefs {trong by Land than towards the Sea, being begirt with good Walls built upon very high Rocks, with feveral Baftions, and other Pieces of Fortification: It is befides always well ftored with Provifions from Sicily, which fupplies it with all it needs ; fo that confidering the excellent Fortifications that cover it,and the danger of the Channel,that makes that the beft appointedFleet cannot lye above

: two

cr

—-

Part L Travels into the LEVANT. 9

two months before A44lta, I may be bold to fay it is impregnable. The Forti- lta im- fications of it are no lefs goodly than good, and yield a moft pleafant Prof Pregnable. pect. Thofe that arrive at Adalra, take great delight to fee the Braque, , covered with lovely Trees, planted in rows: There is a very pretty and high

___Garden, which looks into the Port, below the Baftion of Jra/y ; it is full of

Orange an Lemon-Trees, planted in rows ; and a great many Fountains, where

the Water-works, playing very high, render the place altogether delighful ;

and this Garden was made by the Great Mafter Lafczris, There is a Fountain The Great upon the Port, which is very ornamental ; it is juft by the Sea-fide, and there matter La/: a Dolphin, under the feet of a Neprune, throws water upto a great height : cris. This Fountain is fo commodioufly placed, that Veflels may Water there, with- A lovely and out carrying their Casks a fhore. Near to this, there is a very thick Rock, oe through which the Great Mafter Lafcaris caufed a Paflage to be cut, fo that aria

one can very eafily walk from oneend of the Port to the other ; which before

could not be done, becaufe that Rock reaches to the Sea. You muft mount

up hill from the Port to the Town, which is fmall, for one may go round it

in half an hours time, but it is very pretty ; it hath two Gates, one that

leads to the Port, and the other tothe Countrey. There are feveral Churches

in it, of which that of St. Fobn is the chief; it hath no Piazza,indeed,before the The Church Porch,but a very lovely one before one of the Gates, at thefide of it; and at each of St. Fohr, in angle there is a Fountain, on the out-fide: This is a great and wide Church, Malta. pretty high and well built ; itis all paved with lovely Marble, and adorned

- onhigh witha great many Colours taken fromthe Infidels. There are eight

Chapels for the Inns, and the feveral Knights place themfelves in the diftinct Chapels of their Inns. Near to the great Portal, there isanother Chapel, where all the Great Mafters are buried : In that Church, many fine Reliques are kept ; amongft others, the Right-hand of St. Zohn Bapriff, which only wants The Right- the two laft and leaft Fingers: This Hand was given to the Knights, by Ba- hand of St. jazet,Second Emperour of the Turks; who fearing that his Brother Zizim,who he et, fled to Rhodes, in the Year 1482, to avoid the cruelty of his Brother( who would Re or have put him to death )might rife againft him,ftipulated the fame year with the Bajazcr, at Great Mafter D’ Aubuffon,to pay him yearly 40000.Duckets,to the end he fhould Rhodes, not fuffer him to make his Efcape; to wit,30000.for the Entertainment of Zizim, Uhe Great and 10000. for the repairing the Damages that AZzhomer his Father had done at aes eae the Siege of Rhodes;that fumm was punctually payed fo long as Zizim lived. The | fame Bajazet,knowing that the Knights of Rhodes had a great veneration for the Reliques of St.Fobz, their Patron, made them a prefent of this Hand ; which he found in the Treafury of A¢ahomet, his Father, having been brought from Antioch to Conffantinople, as it is marked in Gothick Characters upon the foot of the Reliquary of Maflive Gold, where that Relique is kept. There is there alfa, a Hand of St. Aza, which only wants the Finger they prefented to the Queen-Mother of Lows XIV. the prefent King of France, when fhe was brought to bed of that Monarch: They have befides, many other Reliques, and ftore of very rich Ornaments. There are feveral lovely Buildings in that Town, and, amongft others, the ftately Palace of the Great Mafter ; In it there is a a fair Maga- confiderable Magazine of Arms, not only for the quantity, which is fo great, zine of Arms. that I was aflured it was enoughto arm thirty five or forty Thoufand Men, but alfo for the good order the Arms are kept in; all the feveral Pieces being by themfelves, in diftinét places, and kept clean by Slaves, who are continually at work there: The Arms of the Great Mafters, who have been wounded in Action, are to be feen there, with marks upon them. Near to the Gate, there is a Canon made of bars of Iron, faftened together by Wire, with a very thin cafe of Wood over it, and the whole covered with thick and hard Leather, à Canon cos well fewed: That fortof Canon was invented for the convenience of Tranf- vered with portation, becaufe they may eafily be carried over Mountains, and other rough Leather. and difficult places; but after they have been twice or thrice fired, they are no more fit for fervice. This Palace of the Great Mafter, looks into a large Square that is before it,: in the middle whereof there is a lovely Fountain, that throws up water in great quantity, and to a great height: The Great Mafter Lafcaris, was at the charge of above fourfcore thoufand Crowns in ma- king of it, the Water being Re to it above fix Leagues off, upon high

, Arches

EVANT. Part À

Arches made in the Rock ; and, indeed, it is of great ufe, for it fupplies all the Town with running Water, which before had no other but Rain-water

TO Travels into the À

toufe. The Water runs into allthe ftrects, by little Conduits, made pur- -

pofely to convey it into Cifterns ; fo that when any one has a mind to fill his

{

Ke \ ue

ce

Ciftern with Water, he fpeaks to the Fountain-keeper, whe fends him 2s much ___—-

as he pleafes, by ftopping the Conduits which crofs that which leads to his Houfe, and that alfo which is under the Gate, to the end the Water may ftop there, and, by a hole or pipe, run into‘his Ciftern. At one end of that A Pillar, ere- Square, there isa Pillar, about fifteen foot high, erected by the Great Mafter éted by the Verdelz, with his Armsuponit. The Palaces of the Confervatory and Trea- Great Mafter fury are fair Buildings alfo,and fo arethe Inns. The Hefpital isvery well buile ; nee ofthe and the Hall, for the fick Knights, hung with rich Tapeftry, where they are er attended by Knights, and ferved in Plate. Allthe Sick are received, and very andTreafury, Well treated in this Hofpital: Nor are poor Travellers refufed, for there they Inns of Malta. have bed and board, tillthey find a Paflage for the place whither they are Hofpital of bound ; and then they are furnifhed with Provifion, put on board, and all PER their Charges born, during their Voyage. The Jefuites have alfoa very well lers lodgeq Puilt Houfe, and keep Colledge there: All the Houfes, even to the meaneft, and enter. make a very good fhew, being built of fquare Stones, cut out of the Rock, tained at which does not coftthem much, for the Rock is very foft ; and, when a Man is Malta. abort to build, the firft thing he does, is to make his Ciftern, becaufe, out of it he gets Stones that ferve inthe Building ; and the reft he has about the Town, for they have them for their labour : This is a kind of Stone that long retains its whitenefs, fo that the Town feems ftill to be new: All the Houfes of it are built with a terrafs, or flat Roof, and one may go from one ftreet to another upon the terrafles of the houfes. There are in it many lovely Piazza’s,or Places, as that which is before the Palace of his Eminence ; another betwixt the Houfes of the Confervatory and Treafury, and the Market-place, which is pretty and A lovely fquare. In this laft, isthe Fountain made by the Great Mafter Lafcaris, in Fountain,art- form of a large Basket of Stone, very well cut, and pierced through all round ; oy made in jt ftands upon a Pedeftal, about three foot from the ground: In this Basket allt, 1655+ there is a Spire, or Obelisk, about four foot high, with Feftons of Flowers hanging from the top to the bottom of the four angles of it; and onthe top of that Obelisk, there is another little pretty Basket: The Water rifes fo, juft at the four angles of the Obelisk, in the firft Basket, that it all falls into the little one, which being pierced through, fends the Water back to the Basket underneath ; from whence, it falls down into a great Stone Trough, where the Horfes water ; and from that Trough, into another little one a foot high, where Dogs and other little Beafts drink. The Streets of this Town are incommodious, in that one is always going either up hill or down hill ; but they are wide and ftreight, and, for the moft part, begin and end at the Town Walls; the faireft of all, is, the Street that reaches from the Caftle St. Erme, to the Royal Gate; it isalmoft a mile in length; and here itis, that they make Horfes and Affes run the Pallio, on days of Publick Rejoycing. Coming along that Street, from the Caftle St. Erme, you mount a little, and paf betwixt the Palace of his Eminence, onthe left-hand, and the Square before it, which is on the right; then you go betwixt the Palace of the Treafury, which is on the right-hand, and a Piazza, lefsthan the former, at the end whereof, is the Palace of the Confervatory: A little more forward, on the right-hand, is the Inn of Auvergne, which is very pleafant, by reafon of a great many Orange- Trees at the entry: Nextis the Inn of Provence, that has a very lovely Fron- tifpiece ; and betwixt thefe two Inns, but to the left, there is a pretty handfom Piazza, at the end whereof, there is a Gate to enter into the Church cf St. Sohn, as I faid before ; fo that in this Street-one fees the beauty of

the Town.

CHAP.

' ‘

Part I. Travels into the LEVANT.

CHAP. VIIL

Of the Grove, and other W. alks in the Countrey- Fields, and of the Ile of Goze.

HE Countrey is full of Gardens, and very agreeable Places of Pleafure:

The Grove, which is but twelve miles from the New Town,is a delightful place,whither the Great Mafters commonly go to divert themfelves : This place was embellifhed by the Great Mafter Verdalaz,who was made a Cardinal ; there he built a Palace, in form of a Caftle,with fo much uniformity and contrivance, that there is not fo much a° a foot of ground loft; all the Halls are adorned with excellent Painting, which reprefents the Life of the Great Mafter Verdala:

This Houfe hath a very neat Garden, full of Orange, Citron and Olive-.

Trees, with feveral lovely Fountains: At fome diftance from the Honfe, there

+ js a little Woad, ftocked with Game, for the Pleafure of the Great Matters.

In going to this place of diverfion, you pafs near to the Old Town, which is not far fromit: Itis fituated in the middle of the Ifland, upon an indifferent high Hill, of a pleafant Profpect ; itis inviron’d with Precipices and Bottoms, and adorned with lovely Fabricks within: Pretty nearto this Town, isthe Grot where St. Paul lodged all the while he was in A4s/ta ; where there is an Image of our Lady, called Our Lady of Melecca, and, as they fay, many Mira- cles are wrought at it: One may alfo go and walk in the Ifle of Gozo, which is but five miles from Aa/ta: This little Ifle is thirty miles in circuit, twelve in length, and fixin breadth. Though it be begirt with Rocks and Precipices, yet it hath fome Creeks ; it hath avery wholfom Air, is fruitful, and almoft all cultivated, though it bemountanous. It hath many Springs of frefh Water, and places fit for Gardening and Pafture ; but the Inhabitants delight more in labouring the Land for Corn, than in any other kind of Husbandry: There were formerly feven or eight thoufand Souls in this Ifland; but fince the Year 1551. that the Turks took the Caftle of it, and carried away all they found there, the number of Inhabitants is much decreafed: This Caftle is, at prefent, very well fortified. | |

CH AP. IX

Of the Publick Rejoycing and Solemnity on Our Lady-day, in September.

Be at Malta on Our Lady-day, the Eighth of September, I faw the Re-

II

Walks of Mal-

We

Our Lady of Meleccas

The Ceremo- ny and Re-

joycing and Ceremony, that the Religion make yearly on that Day, in joycing on

memory of the Turks railing the Siege from before the Bourg. Early inthe morning, all the Militia are in Arms before the Church of St. oh», and drawn up in Battalia: The Church being extraordinarily deck’d, the Great Mafter goes to High Mafs, where, after the reading of the Epiftle, the Marfhal of the Religion comes forth of the Inn of Auvergne, being followed by one of the ancienteft Commanders of the Inn, with a Helmet on his head, who carrys the Colours of the faid Inn: He takes a turn round the Church; and, when he paffes through the Piazza, all the Soldiers difcharge their Volleys of {mall Shot. C 2

After

Our Lady-day, of September, in Mala, ?

19 Travels into the LEVANT. Part I.

After this Commander, comes a Page of the Great Mafter’s, carrying in one hand a Sword; and inthe other a Dagger, which the King of Spain fent as a . Prefent to the Religion, after that the Turks drew off, both which are fet with Precious-ftones of very great value. : Being come to the great Porch of

St. Fobn’s, they enter the Church, and advance near tothe Altar; thenthe, _

Commander who carries the Colours, falutes the Holy Sacrament with them three times; and after that, turning towards the Great Maffer, he falutes him in the fame manner, and then takes his place, below his Eminence, on one hand of hif, with the Page near to him, who prefents the Sword and Dagger to the Great Mafter ; and he holds them naked, with the points upward, all the while the Gofpel is a finging ; which being ended, he gives them back tothe Page. Mafs being over, they wait upon his Eminence to his Palace, where the Commander falutes him thrice again with the Colours; and then they return to the Inn, where the Commander who carried the Co- lours makes a great Feaft to the whole Inn, and to his Friends. After Dinner, they have Races of the Pallio, and other Publick Rejoycings, which conclude the Feftival. et

GORE PR

Departure from Malta for Conftantinople.

Waited five months at Asa for Monficur & Herbelot, but his Affairs taking

him quite off of the Voyage which we had propofed, he gave me notice of it ; wherefore I refolved to be gone ; aid having found a Paflage for Conftanti- noplest left AZalta onT hur fday,the Fourth of Wevember,1655.at Nine a clock in the St. Margare, Morning, being on board the St. Margaret, commanded by Captain Philip Mar- tin de Ciudad, which came from Lecerx: This Ship, that was about eight and thirty years old,was a good failer, and very lucky at Sea; fhe was manned with two and thirty Seamen, and carried fix lron great Guns,and eight Brafs Petrera’s , befides a great many fmaller fre Arms. We went in confort with Captain Anthony Martin, our Captain’s Brother, whofe Ship was galled the Holy Ghoft, manned with thirty fix Seamen, and carrying five Iron Guns, and eight Petrera’s: There was a Polaque of Ciudad, called the St. Margaret, in company with us alfo; and fhe had on board four and twenty Men, two Guns, and fix Iron Pe- trera’s, the Captain’s name being Fames Feautrier: This Polaque failed very well, but the Veflel of Captain Anthony Martin lagg’d always a ftern; which made us lofe above ten miles a way day ; becaufe we lay by for him, when he was at any confiderable diftance a ftern. We had a good Weft and by North Wind; which, on Friday morning, the Fifth of November, fhifted about to South-weit, and the night following, after a great ftorm of Rain, turned North, but fo eafe, that wemade but very little way. Saturday, the Sixth of November, it frefhened towards the Evening, and brought us ona pace ; but the more we advanced, the more we were in fear of meeting Ships of T7ipoly about the Ifle of Sapienza, which we made account to pafs next day ; and ne-

et verthelefs, we fafely pafs’d it before we wereaware ; for, Suzday morning the Seventh of November, when we thought ourfelves to be a great many miles fhort of the Ifle of Sapienza, according to the reckoning we had kept, we per- Goutte ceived that we had already weathered the Cape of A4ctapan, which is above tapan. feventy miles beyond the Ifle of Sapienza: he caufe of this miftake was, that A miftake in WE did not think our Ship madé above eight miles an hour, when fhe made

reckoning, above ten; becauf, befidesthat the Wind was fair, the Currents of the Gulf Another mi- Of Vewice made us runa head apace. We committed alfo another errour, of fake in the no lefs confequence than the former ; for we intended to have held our courfe Contle. above ninety miles off of the Ifle of Sapienza and Cape Matapan, betwixt Cerigo

and

zp /

Part L Travels int ‘the Levant. 13

mme

and Cerigotto ; and neverthelefs, on Surday, by break of day, we found our- felves, as I faid, above Cape Æatapan ; but fo near Land, that it was but two miles off; which obliged us to pafs betwixt the main Land and Cerigo, the nearer cut, indeed, by above forty miles, than if we had pafled betwixt Cerigo and Cerigotto ; but likewife, by reafon of the narrownefs of the Paflage, cerico and

- the more dangerous. This laft miftake was alfo occafioned by the Currents Cerigotto.

of the Gulf of Venice, which drove us infenfibly uponthefhore: We were very glad that we were fo fortunately miftaken, for we were got above an hundred and fifty miles more forward in our courfe, than we thought ourfelves to be ; and free from the fear of Corfairs,who dare not come fo near to Cerigo, where, there are for the moft part, fome Venetian Galeafles ready to fall upon them. However, itis very dangerous to commit fuch miftakes , for if it had been in the night-time, our Ship had run the risk of fplitting upon the fhore, whilft we thought ourfelves a great way off at Sea.

GiEh a Pies Dot: Of Cape Matapan, and the Îfle of Cerigo.

Ape AMatapan, is a Promontory of the Morea, formerly called Temarus ; Cape mara and it is faid, that Arion, carried by a Dolphin, put a fhore at this Pro- pan. montory. The Conntrey is inhabited by the 44zinots, a People who live in the Mountains without Law or Government; and are fubject to thofe who have moft Power inthe Countrey; fometimes the Venetians, and fometimes the Turks, all their Profeffion being to Rob Travellers: Thefe People have their Name from the Coaft which is called Afaiza. * About Nine a clock in the morning, the Wind began to flacken, fo that we were becalmed near the Cape St. Angz, and could not doubie it all day long ; tillabout three a clock in the morning, November the Eighth, that with a gale fromthe North-eaft, wedoubled it : Afterward, finding that the fame Wind, which was contrary to us, ftill con- tinued, and that we felia ftern, more than we wenta head, we refolved to put into the Bay of St, Nicholas, in the Ifle of Cerigo, where we came toan anchor. There we ftayed all that day, and half the following, but without feeing the Countrey. This Ifland, as all the reft of the Archipelago, being full of Game, we went a fhore to fheot, Cerigo was anciently called Porphyris, The Ile of becaufe of the great quantity of Porphyrian Marble that was got there. It was Crise. alfo called Cythera, from whence comes, perhaps, the word Seotera, which is ? He found in the Ifolario del Bordony: This was the firft Ifland that Venus inhabi- "7% ted, after fhe was born of the Froth of the Sea, asthe Fables fay, and therefore there was a Temple built to her in this place, near the Sea-fide, the Ruines whereof, as they fay, are ftill to be feen. Cerigo, is the firft Ifland of the Archipelago, or Agean-Sea ; it is threefcore miles in compafs, and but five miles from the main Land of the Area, having a Town called by the Name of the Ifland. The /enetians are the Mafters ofit, and keep a good Garifon there, it being a Pafs of great Importance.

CELA P:

Zias

11 Travels into tbe Levany. Part I. : CH AMP Sebo N

Of the Îfle of Zia.

Uefday, November the Ninth, the weather promifing fair, after we had payed the Conful a Piaffre or peice of Eight,for Anchorage, we weighed about noon ; but being abroad, we found that the wind was not good as we had imagined it was; for it fhifted to and agen from Eaft to North, and was fo cafe, that we madeno way. Weduefday,the Tenth of November, we were’ becalmed till the evening, when,to our great joy, we had aGale from South- welt,but in the night-time it chang’d about to Weft,with which we ftill kept on our courfe: It lafted till Thurfday morning,the Eleventh of November,when, about eight a clock, we were becalmed until the evening, that the wind turned eafterly, thennorth eafterly, and at length in the night-time, it turned about to the north, which toffed us a little; fo that fearing worfe weather, we refolved to come to an ‘anchor at Zia, being very near toit. Friday morning the Twelfth,we made a fail, which coming nearer,we knew to be the Reer-Admiral of Venice, that was a Flemifh bottom: When he had put out the Colours of St. Mark, we fhewed ours, and then he faluted us with two Guns: We having returned the falute, by firing five Petrera’s, he gave us a fhot withouta Bullet, to let us know he had a mind to fpeak with us, and fo went to ftay for us at the Port of Zia, whither we followed him; we there found ano- ther Dutch Ship of the Venetian Fleet, both which were going with fuécours for Candie. \t is a hundred and threefcore miles from Cerigo to Zia, which has a Harbour fecure from all Winds, the entry into it being at the Welt North-welt fide. Saturday the Thirteenth of November, we went to the-Town, which is about five miles fromthe Port, with adefigntobuy frefh provifions there; we armed our felves for fear of fome ambufh, which is a common thing in that Country ; and we weretold that a few days before, a Turkifh Galliot came in the night-time to the Harbour, and having feen fhips in it, went and skulked behinda Rock; the Turksin themean time having landed, put them- felvesin ambufh, and furprifed thofe of the other Veflels, who were come on fhore to walk and fifh; amongft whom was a Captain ofa fhip, being unarmed as thereft were, andcarryed them all offin view of the fhips, which could give them no aid. Having then prepared our felves againit the worft, we took a way that we thought tobe the fhorteft,to the Town,but which was indeed the worft way and furtheft about: Wewere forced,to clamber up and down three or four Hills that were fo high and rugged, being nothing but Rocks full of Rufhes, that our hands were as well employed as our feet: At length, after agreat deal of trouble, we came tothe place, but when wethought of nothing, but of making merry there a little,we faw three fhips out atSea,which having advanced to the mouth of the Port, and finding that there were Veffels init, ftood away, as if they intended to put into Port,at Spina Longa, an Ifland towards Ne- gropont: This put our Captain into'a great perplexity,who not knowing what to think ofthem,told us, that if any mifchance happened to his Veflel,he would be prefent there himfelf : That, made us prefentlyreturn back again by the good way, whichthe Inhabitants fhew’d us; and, becaufe we faw no more ofthefe Ships, we concluded they muftbelongto alta, and that they would not put into the Port, becaufe they had feen Venetian Ships there, which made them believe, there could be no great ftore offrefh Provifions left forthem. Adonday the Fifteenth, the Conful, having given us a vifit on Board our Ship, took us with them to the ‘Town, and entertained us in his houfe at Dinner: It is a great Town, containing at leaft feven hundred houfes; butthey told us there was not above four hundred ‘of them inhabited, and that the other three hundred, had been abandoned fince the War of Candia: Thefe houfes are only built of ftones of the Rock and Earth, and are ranked like the Benches of . 410 an

» q or a

the LEVANT. 15

PartI. Travels into

an Amphitheater, being all built one at the back ofthe roof ofanother, upon the fide of the hill, and inthat manner making ten or twelveranks, fo that there are no other ftreets but the roofs of houfes, which are flat and joyn to : one another, infomuch that at one view one may fee all the houfes of the » Town. There isa Caftlethere,of a great height, which though now it be ruinous, was neverthelefs fo ftrong, that as I was told, fome years ago, Threefcore Turks held it out a whole month, with two Mufquets only, againit the Venetian Army, under the Command of General Thomas Morofini , and yielded not tillthey came to want water. This Ifland which in ancient times was called Ceos and Cea, and is faid to have been heretofore part of the Ifle of Ceos. cea: Negropont; is fhaped like a Horfe-fhoe, and is fifty mile in circumferece ; the foil of it ispretty good, producing Corn, Wine, Grafs and a great many other good things;its harbour is full of Fifh,which we often made tryal of with our Nets: The Inhabitants pay yearly in Caradge or Tribute three thoufand four hundred Piaffres to the Turks, andtwo thoufand fix hundred to the Venetians, befides the extortions and robberies they meet with ; fo that the Inhabitants being thereby ruined and opprefled, many of them are forced to forfake their houfes and country. The Womenare Apparelled ina fafhion that feems to be rude and clownifh, but which becomes tall women very well: They have coatsthat reach downto their knees, and of them fix or feven one over ano- ther, which make them look very bigg, their fmock appearing half a foot lower ; they wear white cloth ftockins, and on their head, a kind of veil that alfo covers their Breafts, which they turn as they pleafe : After all, the Inha- bitants of this Ifland are good people, and deferve to be pitied, becaufe of the miferies they fuffer both from Chriftians and Turks.

at

CH A PB: XIE. Of the Ile of Andra, and of our Ships running

a ground.

Vefday, theSixtenth of November, the wind being a little abated, we put out about eight of theclock at night, hoping to find the wind fair at Sea; but Wednefday morning the feventeenth of November, it blew fo ftrong a North Wind, that we were obliged to bear away to I{le of Azdra, where we Ifle of André: cametoan Anchor, attwo inthe afternoon. We found five Venetian fhips there; who fo foon as they underftood from us, that there was fome fufpition ofa Plague iu Æ4dlta; they difcharged us from having any communication with them or thofe of the Ifland: Though this prohibition hindred me from getting any knowledge ofthis Ifle by my own means, yet I fhall here relate what I learnt of it from thofe who have been upon it, as alfo from a manufcript Relation that hath come into my hands fince. The Ifle of Avdra, in ancient time Andros, is threefcore miles from Zia, itis fourfcore miles in circuit, and is reckoned the moft fertile Ifland ofall the Archipelago, asindeed, itis fo in all things, efpecially in Silk, wherein the Inhabitants, who are about fix thon- fand fouls, Trade at Chio, and other Places; with Backs, that are made in Andra, and make forty thoufand Piaftres profit of ita year. It hatha Town near the Sea, which contains not above two hundred Houfes ; the Port of it is pretty good,and the South Wind blows a thwart it; there is an uninhabited Caftle ftill to be feen, upon a little Rock in the Sea, hard by it. There are befides fixty Villages, fcattered here and there in feveral places of the Ifland, of which the moft confiderable are Arm: and Amolacos, that are inhabited by gyn: the Arzautes or Albanians, to the number of twelve hundred fouls, all of the 4mosos: Greek, Church, and differing in Language and Cuftoms ; a rude fort of Fe

ple

\

Ge

x

Family of Sa- mutt.

Scito. Ifpicera. Ghio.

ee

Travels into the LEVANT. — - Part J. eS aT TN To 7 RE he eae ple,any without difcipline. Near to thefe Villages, there is a Monaftry of an hundred Monks, called Tags, built in form of a Fort; witha Church, very well adorned, though fimall, and ferved by thefe Monks, who live in extreme ignorance. They entertain Travellers all the while they ftay there ; and, when they depart, they give them Provilions to carry them home to their own Countrey ; for they have great Revenues. There are befides, fix other little Monafteries, with a few Religiousin them. Thereis a great number of Greck, Churches in the Ifland, which are all under the government and difcipline of a Greek Bifhop. The Latins have alfo a Bifhop there, who, on Corpus Chrifti- day, carries the Holy Sacrament in Proceflion all over the Town; at which there isa great concourfe of People, both Greeks and Latins; and, when the Bifhop pafles along the ftreets, all the people proftrate themfelves, fpread Carpets, Flowers, Herbs, and other odoriferous things ; and lye fo thick upon the ground, that the Bifhop cannot pafs without treading upon them : The Cathedral of the Bifhop of the Latin Church, is dedicated to the Apoftle St. Andrew ; it is pretty neat, but hath no great Revenue. There are fix Churches befides in the Town, of which there is one dedicated to Sr. Bernard, and held by the Capucines ; who eafe the Bifhop very much, by their Preaching, hearing Confeflions, and by their School, to which all the Greek Children come; nay, fome are fent thither from Athens to learn. The Turks have the difpofal of the Temporal Affairs, and there are feveral Families of them upon the Ifland, who.are very uneafie Neighbours to the Greeks and Latins. There is a very pleafant Valley in this Ifland, called by the Inhabitants Adenites, with plenty of frefh Springs and Fruit-trees init ; befides about forty Mills, that grind Corn for the People of the Townand circum )acent Villages, which is very commodious: The Water which drives thefe Mills,comes from a Spring in a Church, called Madonna del cumule; and this Water runs in Brooks, through the Valley ; and under Trees, fallen of themfelves, fo that they feem to have been bent fo artificially ; and, indeed, a Painter cannot reprefent a more lovely and pleafant Valley in Landskip. In the Plain, at the end of this Valley, the Jefuites havea Garden, full of Fruit-trees of all forts, which render them a confiderable Revenueyearly: There they have their Houfe, and their Church, called St. Veneranda. “This Ifland might be called very lovely, if the Houfes of it were better built, and the Air good, but it is very bad, and fois the Water of the Town. The Inhabitants of the Ifle of Avdra are civil, and their Language is more literal than the Language of the other Greeks ; their Women are Chalt, and fpeak well, but their Aparrel is very unbecoming. The Inhabitants of the Town are not very laborious, love good chear and di- verfions, but the Peafants are more induftrious ; they.make very white wicker Baskets,which are ufed all over the Archipelago: As to their Food,they eat fome- times Goats flefh, though in the Woodsand Hills they have good Venifon and wild Fowl, as Hares, Coneys, Partridges, and the like ; but they have neither Huntfmen nor Fowling-pieces: Their Sea affords no Fifh, and is, as to that, worfe than the Sea of Gezoz. They have neither Phyfician nor Chyrurgeon, but, when they fall fick, betake themfelves to the Mercy of God. This Ifle belonged heretofore to the Family of the Saw, who had it in Dowry from the Family of Zev, of which were the Dukes of Naxiainthofe times. It was into this Ifland that Themiffocles was fent from Athens, to raife money ; who, having entered into conference with thofe of the Ifland, told them,Geztlemen of

Andra’s, I bring you two Gods, the One of Perfwafion, and the Other of Force;

chufe you which of the two you pleafe : To which they anfwered, And we will pre- Sent you with two Goddeffes, the One Poverty, and the Other Impoffibility ; take which of the two you pleafe : Which was the caufe that the Athenians befieged and took it. We lay atan anchor before Andra, from Weanefday the Seventh, till Fri- day the Nineteenth of November, when the laft Quarter of the Moon began, which made us hope that the Wind would change: It being then a Calm, about Moon-rifing we weighed, betwixt, Ten and Eleven a clock at night, and found a good South-weft Wind. When we were got out toSea, we bore away to the ftarboard, and pafs’d betwixt Andra and Negropont, witha Wind in Poop. Saturday, the Twentieth, before noon, we made Sciro, fhortly after I/picera, and then Chro: About evening, the Wind turned Eaft South-eaft,

| but

Part L | Travels ito the LEVANT. 17

a

but we {till continued our courfe with good enough fuccefs, until next morning, November the One and Twentieth, when about Three or four a clock, we made Land, but knew not whether or not it was Tevedo ; and about break of day we tacked, and then found that we were pafs’d it ; for we were before Troy, and very near Land. Our Ship ftuck a ground, withthe noife of which, our Cap- tain awoke; and thinking the Ship to be loft, he prefently fent to view the Pump, to fee if fhe had made much water ; but they found none at all: At the fame time, he launched the Boat, and going into it, viewed the Snip all round, and found that fhe had received no damage, her head having only ftruck upon the fand: He thereupon ordered all the Sails to be furled, and the Ship beginning to float again, hecaufed an Anchor to be heaved out a ftern, by means whereof, in a fhort time, we weighed off of the fand. We had certainly the particular afliftance of God Almighty at that time, for it blowing fo frefh, aud we having all our Sails abroad, the Ship in all probability fhould have ftranded ; and neverthelefs, in an hours time, we were got off, without fpringing the leaft leak: But if the ground had been very Rocky, as it was but a kind of Oaze, the Ship had certainly.been loft. Whilft the Seamen were bufie in clearing the Ship, feeing my felf out of danger of fhipwreck, I confi- dered the Ruins of that ancient and famous City of Troy, which are ftill very remarkable, and of great extent. Being at length got clear, we ftood a little more off to the larboard, and betwixt Nine and Tenof the clock, we pafled The Chanel the Mouths, and entered the Chanel of the Hellefpont. It was at this place, of the mer. where the Turks firft pafled from Afizinto Europe, At One a clock, the Wind pony, calming, we came to an Anchor. Adonday, the two and twentieth of Novem-

ber, a South Wind blowing, much about the fame hour in the Afternoon, we

weighed Anchor, and foon after pafs’d betwixt the Caftles of the Dardanels

(which we faluted with three Petrera’s) and about Three in the Afternoon, we

came to an Anchor.

The Ships running a ground.

©. Hu A sP XIV. Of the Dardanelles, Gallipoly, and our arrival

at Conftantinople.

HE two Caftles of the Dardanelles are upon the fide of the Chanel of the Dardanelles

Hellefpont, which the Turks call by excellence only Boghas; thatisto” = fay, Gorge or Chanel ; the one is iu Europe, and the other in Afia ; they are two miles diitant from one another, which is the whole breadth of the Chanel at this place. That which isin Romania,on the fide of Europe, isin the fame place where, in ancient Times, Seftos ftood : It is built in a triangular form, at sf, the foot of a Hill, which commands and covers it ; and upon which there is a little Town: This Caftle hath three Towers covered with Lead ; whereof two are towards the Land, and the third, which is the bigeft, upon the Har- bour ; it hath, as I could privately difcern with a Per{pedtive-glafS, about twenty Port-holes level with the water, in which there are Guns of fuch a pro- digious bore, that befides what I could obferve by my Glafs, I was aflured, | that a Man might eafily creep into them. The other Caftle, which is in Aza- tolia, in Afia, in the place where heretofore Abidos ftood, is ina Plain, and Abydos. feemed to me to be almoft fquare; it hath three Towers on each fide, and a Dundgeon or Platform in the middle ; but it hath not fo many Gun-holes as agshonet the the other. Mahomet the fecond, Son of Amurath the Second, built thefe two second built Forts, which are properly the Keys of Conffantimople, that is at two hundred thefe two Ca- miles diftance ; for they hinder any Ship, Friend or Foe, to pafs them without ae ft leave, elfe they would run a danger of being funk. All Veflels that come ,& aoe from Conjtantinople, ftop three days before the Caftle in Avatolia, that they nets from

D May Conftantinople,

{ |

13 Travels into the Levanr. | Part L

|

may be fearched whether they have any Counterband Goods or Fugitive Slaves

Seflos and 4. on board. Thefe two places of Seffos and Abydos are famous for the Love of bidos. , Leander and Hero. Much about this place Xerxes, King of Perfia, made a The Amours Bridge of Boats, to pafs his Army over from Afia into Europe: From Andra Feat to thefe Caftles, it is about two hundred and fourfcore miles. Tuefd:y, No rae ae vember the Twenty Third, having a gale of Wind about Noon, we weighed caus’ a Bridge Anchor, but were obliged to drop it again in the Evening, becaufe of a calm. to be built Wednefday, November the Twenty Fourth, we weighed again after Midnight, upon the Sea. and putting out three Oars oneach fide ofthe Ship, our Men tuge’d fo hard, Gallipoly, that we arrived at oe about One a clock: From the Caftles to Gallipoly, | it is reckoned about five and thirty miles. There we ftopt eight days, during which time, we had leifure to walk, but found no great matter worth the obfervation. This Town was built by Callas, Prince of the Athenians, from

whom it was named Calliopolis, and by corruption Galdipoly: It feems not to

be well peopled, and there is hardly any body to be feen but in the Market- : |

Kaki. places: Several Grecks live there, who, for the moft part, fell Raki, or Brandy ; the Doors of their Houfes are but about two foot high, and they make them fo, The reafon that the Turks may.not come in on Horfe-back,as they do elfewhere, when they -Whythe doors are drunk, and turn all things topfy-turvy. In this Town there isa {quare os Bie cies Caftle, with a Tower, joined to it by a Pomel of a Wall ; but for what 1 can ry low. "judge of its Antiquity, 1 believe it hath been built by the Chriftians. On the Sea-fide, there is an Arfenal, where feven very old Galleys are to be feen, which the Turks fay were taken from the Vezetians, when they took the Ifland Turkifh Gal- of Cyprus ; but the truth is, they are the remains of their Fleet which efcaped leys remain- from the Battel of Lepanto; and they were carried by main ftrength over the ee Ms Ifthmus of Corinth, and put into the Archipelago, not being able to bring-them pauto. _ about by Sea, becaufethe Chriftians,who had taken or funk the reft, pofleffed all the Pafles. Weduefday, the Firft of December, a little gale of Wind blowing, we weighed at Four of the clock in the Afternoon ; for we were all weary enough of ftaying there: But we were hardly out of the Harbour, when it behoved us to come to an Anchor again: The Moon fhining a little, about Nine a clock at night we weighed, and with a good Weft South-weft Wind, which The Ile of made us run apace, we pafled the Ifle of A¢armora inthe Night-time : At this Marmora. place the Sea is very wide, and this Sea is called Adare de Marmora, which Propontis. wasanciently named Propontis. Thurfday, the Second of September, the Wind chopt about to the South, which made us run a great deal fafter; bnt the Currents, which are very {trong in that place, being againft us, hindered us from making fo much way as otherwife we could have done ; at length, with the day, we difcovered Conffantinople, which is about an hundred and twenty five miles fromGallipoly ; being entered the Streight of it, and failing along the Arrival at Serraglio and Conftautimople, we came to an Anchor at Galata, betwixt One and Gonflantinople. Two in the Afternoon. There we learn’d, that there had been a Fire in that great City the Night before, which was not as yet fully quenched ; we had {een it iu the Propontis, but conld not imagine where it fhould be. Afloon as I was got a fhore, I went to wait upon Afonfieur de la Haye, Ambafladour for the French King, who received me very civily: I then went to lodge in Galata, at a Flemand’s Houfe, named Aonfieur de la Roze, who kept a Penfion ; and fome days after, I hired avery pretty Houfe at Perz, which had a Gar- den, and a Profpect into the mouths of the two Seas, and all at a very cheap

rate.

Pe CHAP.

Le

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Va ie | Pareil. Travels inte the LEVANT. 19

CHA PV Of the Situation of Conftantinople.

ou LL who have feen Conffautinople, agree in this, That it is the +beft

fituated City in the World ; fo that it would feem to be defign’d by Nature, for bearing Ruleand Command over the whole Earth : It lies in Europe, upon a point of the main Land, jutting out towards the Bo/phorus of Thrace, The Bolphoros from which it is but half an hours paflage over to 4fia. Onthe right-hand, of Thrace. it hath the White Sea or Propontis, by which there is eafie paflage into Afia, The White eÆgypt and Africa ; and whereby it is fupplied with all the Commodities of Sea. thofe Places. Ontheleft-hand, it hath the Black or Exxin Sea, and the Palus Black Sea. Maotis, which recieving a vaft number of Rivers, and having many bordering Euxin Sea. People, furnifh this City with all the Commodities of the North ; infomuch, 7445 us. that there is nothing thatcan be ufeful, neceflary or pleafant, which is not brought in plenty from all hands to Corf'antinople by Sea ; and thefe twoCha- nels,of the White and Black Seas,are fo oppofite one to ancther,that when the The advan- Wind hinders Veflels from coming to Conftantinople by the one, it is good for Im- Bee OF ae ‘portation by the other. Betwixt thofe two Seas, is the Entry of the Port, cheCHInelsee which Nature, without the help of Art, hath made the lovelieft of the World : the white & It is at Jeaft fix miles in compafs, a mile over, and deep in all places ; fo that Black Seas. on both fides one may ftep out of aShiponfhore, without the help of any Boat, Ere beauty 6 becaufe the biggeft Ships may lay their head a-fhore without any danger. The cmt Refponfe of the Oracle then, that was given to the Founders of it, is not to ; be wondred at, who (having confulted it to know where they fhould build their Town, received no other Anfwer but this, Over againft the blind Men ; inti- mating unto them, that they fhould build over againft the Chalcedonians ; whom it reckoned to be very Blind, in having neglected a Situation fo advan- tagious by Nature, and built Chalcedon in Afia, over againft that place. This Town, heretofore called Byzantinm, was built by Paufanias, King of Sparta ; fome fay he only re-built it, or enlarged it at moft: It was deftroyed by the Emperour Severus, to punifh the Inhabitants for their Revolting ; and afterwards reftored by Conftamine the Great, who (making it much bigger) called it Mew Rome; and afterwards (from his own Name) Conftantinople. It was alfo called Parthenopolis, becaufe it was dedicated to the Blefled Virgin P arthenopolis by the fame Corffantine, perhaps in Imitation of Antioch, which was called Theopolis: After the Divifion of the Empire, it continued to be the Seat of rheopolis. the Eaftern Empire. The French and Venetians took it from the Greeks, in the The French, Year 1203.but it was re-taken by the Paleologi,in the Year 1254.and at length re- Mafters of taken from the Greeks by Mahomet the Second,Emperour of the Turks,upon Tue/- Conflantinople. day the Seven and Twentieth of Aday,being Whitfunday of the Year 1453. The rales a iy Turks have ever fince kept it, calling it J/tambol, which is a word corrupted hone de ee from the Greek =ravaéqv. It lies almoft in the fame Climate as Lions does, and cond. neverthelefs the heat in Summer would be very incommodious there, if the Air Jambol. were not cocled by a Breeze that commonly blows in the Afternoon, during The Climate the Months of July and Auguft , the French call that Wind the Breeze from pee US without, becaufe it comes from the mouth of the Port. This Town is fo © fubjeét to Earthquakes, that I have felt two in one night: As toits figure, it is triangular, two fides of it are beat by the Sea, the one by the Propontis Or The Plain of White Sea, and the other by the Port; the third is towards the land ; and Conflantinople. the biggeft of the three, is that which lies on the Propontis, and reaches from the Seraglio to the feven Towers, that towards the Port, is the middlemoft. The Seraglio is built upon the point of the Triangle, which runs out betwixt the situati. the Propontis and the Port, and in a lower place under this Palace upon the on of the se- fhore, are the Gardens of the Seraglio, much about the place where the ancient raglio. Town of Byzantium {tood, which afford a very lovely Profpect to thofe who

D 2 come

The feven Towers,

come to Conftantinople either by the White Sea, or the Black. On the other

Travels into the Levant. Part L

Angle, which is upon the Chanel of the White Sea, are the feven Towers co- vered with Lead; they were built by the Chriftians, and ferved a long time for keeping the Grand Seioniors Treafure ; at prefent they are made a Prifon for Perfons of Quality. Atthethird Angle, which isat the bottom of the Port, on the Land fide, are the Ruines of Conffantines Palace. This Toy

The Wallsof is encompafled with good Walls, which to the Land fide are double ; in fome Conftantinople. places built of Free-ftone, and in others of rough Stones and Brick. Each

The bignefS

of thefe Walls has a broad flat-bottom’d Ditch, wharfed and faced on both fides. The firft Out-wall is but a Falfebray, about ten foot high, with many little Battlements and Cafements in its Parapet ; and Gun-holes below, afwel in the Courtine as in the Towers, which are but at a little diftance from one another, and abeut two hundred and fifty in number. The fecond Wall is of the fame fafhion, but higher, for it is at leaft three fathom from the ground up to the Cordon, or edging ; it has the fame number of Towers as the former, but higher ; fo that one Tower commands the other, which is as a Cavalier to it: In fhort, this might be made a very ftrong Town; but as yet the Turks have had no need of it, for they have not been purfued fo far. The Walls onthe Sea-fide are not fo high, but they are ftill good, and fortified but with the Ments and Turrets; they run along the fides of the water upon the Streight of the Propontis, unlefs it be at the Creeks and Stairs, which are little Harbours where Boats put a fhore; for there they turn inwards, about fifty paces, to make place for them, according to the turnings of the fhore.

Many have imagined that Conjtantinople was bigger than either Caire or

of Conftantino- Paris, but they are miftaken ; for certainly it is lefs than either of thofe two

ble.

Cities. Some allow it thirteen miles in circuit, others fixteen, and others again eighteen ; but I went round it once with another Freachman ; we had each of us a Watch, and having taken a Caique or Boat at Topha0, we went over to Conffantinople, and landed as near as we durft to the Kiousk of the Seraglio, which is upon the Port ; having then fent the Boat to ftay for us at the feven Towers, we fet our Watches to Seven of the clock, and walked a-foot along the Port, without the Walls; and alfo along the Land-fide, till we came to the feven Towers; where looking on our Watches, we found them both at three quarers after Eight ; fo that we fpent an hour and three quarters in performing that Journey ; and it requires no more than an hour to come by Water from the feven Towers to the Seraglioina Boat with three Oars; for that Way cannot be gone on foot, becaufe the Water wafhes the Walls ; but if there were a foot-Way, I make no doubt but one may walk it in an hour or little more, and in an hour and aquarter at moft, with eafe; and indeed, that quarter is to be allowed, becaufe in the beginning we left behind us a little of the fide that is on the Port, feeing no body dares to walk there. Thus I found, that in the {pace of three hours, at moft, one might make the circuit of Conffantinople on foot, walking apace, as we did. It may

The circuit be faid, that without the Walls it is twelve miles in compafs. This Town hath of the Walls. two and twenty Gates, fix towards the Land, eleven along the Port, and five

end he chofe feven little Hills, on the top and fides whereof, in imitation of the

on the Streight of the Propontis, having all their landing Places and Stairs.

C HA P..:XVT Of Santa Sophia, Solymania, the New Mofque

and others.

Hen Conftantine the Emperour removed the Seat of his Empire, from Rome to Conftantinople, he refolved to render that City,which he called New-Rome, fo illuftrious,that it fhould at leaft be equal to old Rome, and for that

firft,

\

Part I. Travels into the Levant. 21

firft,which is built upon feven Hills,he built his Town,which in progrefs of time heenrich’d with many ornaments, as Statues, Pillars, ce. This Town,which

ftands on fevenlittle hills, is difpofed in fuch order, that one honfe takes not

away the fight from another ; the ftreets are not fair, but are for the moit

part narrow, though there-be feveral goodly Buildings in them. There are

many ftately Mofques in it, of which the moft magnificent is the Santa Sophia, heretofore a Chriftian Church, built by the Emperour Fu/fiz,cnlarg’d, enrich’d

and adorned, by Yu/timian the Emperour, and dedicated to the Wifdom of

God, wherefore it was called Agia Sophia : The Turks becoming fince mafters

of Conftantinople, have changed it into a Mofque, leaving itthe name which it

retains at prefent. This Fabrick which isadmired by all that fee it,is an hundred

and fourteen pacesin length, and fourfcore in breadth; it is fquare on the

outfide, and round within: There are four Gates to entér under the Portico,

which reaches along the whole front of theChurch, but there is only a little

door left open, which is the wicket of a great Gate of well wrought Marble : Afterwards you/ find feven doors to enter into a kind of Nef or body ofa

Church, which ‘is not very broad ; and then nine other great brazen Gates :

The middlemoft whereof particularly, is very great; and by it they enter into

the Mofque, which is very fpacious, and hath a Dome in the middle, the arch

whereof is made in form ofa fquatted half Globe, and fo almoft fingular in its

kind and architecture. In the infide of this Church, there is a porch that

ranges all round, which carries another Gallerie, in like manner vaulted over,

thirty paces btoad, fupported by fixty Pillars, and this carried as many more Zeffer ones, which upholdthe top of the Church, all thefe Pillars being ranked

by tens, as well above as below. The Afcent tothe higher Gallery, is by a very

eafie flaircafe, and it behoved us to give a Turk money to openthe door of it.

This gallery, when the Chriftians were mafters of it, was appointed for the

women, whokept there, in timeof Divine Worfhip, that by the fight of them

the Devotion of the men might not be difturbed : There is a Tomb to be feen Conftantine’s there, which the Turks fay, is the Tomb of Conftantine, anda ftone alfo, upon Tomb. which {( as they believe ) our Lady wafhed our Lords Linnen, and they bear

great reverence toit. Heretofore this Church was painted all over, afterthe A stone re- Mofaical way, and fome pieces of it are ftilltobe feen, as Croffes and Images, verenced. which the Turks did not half deface, when they endeavoured to rub them out; for they fuffer no Images: On the outfide of this Church, there are four A4iza- vets or Steeples, very high and flender ; yet one may go up to the top of them; they have feveral ftories of Balconies, all round them,from whence the Aduezins call to prayers. This Church, withtheappurtenances of it, was heretetofore much bigger thanit is at prefent ; the Turks having cut off a great deal from it; and it has ferved themfora pattern tobuild their Mofques by : Clofe by the back ofthis Church, in alitte ftreet, not far from its entry, are two large and thick Pillars, where they fay, Juftice was heretofore adminiftred ; others fay, that there were three of them, and that upon each Conftantine caufed a bra- zen Crofs to be erected, and that upon every Crofs one of thefe words, Yefi, Chrift, Surmounts, was engraven in large Greek Characters. Near to that place, there is anold Tower, where the Grand Signior’s Beaftsare kept; there I faw Lyons, Wolves, Foxes, Leopards, a fpotted Lynx, the skin of a Giraffe and Loup-corvier. other rare Animals. Szata Sophia, being the Model for all the fair Mofques

of Conftantinopley wherein there are feven Royal ones, that of Solymania, is sonate very like toit ; it is a great Mofquefull of Lamps, at theend of which there digit isa little Chappel or Zurbe, and in it the Coffin that holds the body of Sultan sotinan’sCof. Solyman the Founder of that Mofque ; thisCoffin flands upon a Carpet fpread fin,

upon the ground, which was brought from Æ#dir4, and over it there is a Pall

brought from cha, which Town is reprefented upon the Pall. At one end

ofthe Coffin there is Turban, to which are faftened two Herons tops, enrich’d

with precious ftones, and about it are many Tapers and Lamps, burning, with

feveral Alcorans chained, that they may not be ftoln, and that people may read

them for the falvation ofthe defunéts Soul, and indeed, there are men there at

all times reading the Alcoran, who are hired todo it; for theGrand Signiors

take care toleave a fund, for continual Prayers, to be faid forthem, after

their death. Neartothis Chapel, there is another, in the middle whereof

is

Minarets.

(

De Travels into the LEvanT. Part [.

is thebody of aSwltana, whom Solyman loved extremely, and the body alfo of a

Son of Selim, the fon of Solyman the Second. This Mofque hath a moft lovely

Do a! Cloyfter with Bagnios and Fountains. The new Mofgue built by Sultan a faut Portico, Achmet, is one of the faireft and moft magnificent in Confantinople : The entry into it is through a large Court, that leads to a Portico, which hath a gallery _ covered in length by nine Domes, and inbreadthby fix, fupported by marble

Pillars and leaded, then you enter as into a fquare Cloÿfter, having many

Neceffary neceflary houfes about it, with each a cock, that gives water for purifying Houfes about thofethat have done their needs there, according to the cuftom ofthe Turks : the Mofque, and there is alfo a lovely Fountain in the middle of the Cloyfter ; the Mofque And Water joyns tothisCloyfter, andthe door of itisinit: It isa very great Mofque, near them. and hath a ftately Dome ; and it is full of Lamps, and curiofities in glafs bails of which one for inftance, contains a little galley well rige’d, another the

model of the Mofque in wood, and the reft a great many pretty knacks of that

nature ; at the backof this Mofquethere isa Turbe, where are the bodies of

Sultan Achmet and his children, upon their Coffins there is a great Chizous

Cap, abig wax Taper ftanding by eachof them, and alwaies fomebody there

praying for the reft of their fouls: The chief entry into that Moïque is in the Mofque of Sul- Atmeidan, There are befides feveral other fair Mofques in Constantinople, as

tan Mehemmet. the Mofque of Sultan Mehemmet, neat theangle at the end of the Port ; that

Mofque of S- OF Sultan Selima little more remote from it; that which is called Chabzadeh aa AE Mefagidi, that’s to fay, the Kings Sons Mofque, becaufe afon of Solyman built

Fie: it near the Oda of the Janifaries : And the Mofque built by Bajazet, near to the

Mofque of Ba- old Seraglio: All thefe Mofques have hofpitals and fchools, where a great

jazer. many poor fchollars, who have not means of their own to keep them, are

) ho- . ° ee eet maintained and educated. .

ned at the ’ Charge of the

Là CHARS OC VIE.

Of the Hyppodrome, the Pillars and Obelisks | of Conftantinople.

N former times, there were a greatmany fair Statues, Obelisks and Pillars

in Conftantinople, but they have been all fo ruined, that there are but a few

ofthem remaining : The ancient Hyppodrome is ftill to be feen, and of the

fame dimenfions asit was formerly of ; it is a very large fquare, longer than

yppodvome. broad,which was called Æyppodrome becaufe horfes were exercifed torun there, Avneidan. and the Turks ftill exercifethem there daily, and call it the Atmeidan, which is as much as to fay,the place or field of horfes; in the middle ofthis place there

An Obelisk. is an Obelisk pretty entire, marked with hieroglyphick Letters, and fome A Pillar of fleps from thence a pretty high pillar, all made of Stones, layd one upon three Ser- another, without any ciment : A little further, towards the end of the Dents, Square , there is a Pillar made of three brazen ferpents twifted together, the heads of which at fome diftance from one another, make the capi-

tal of the pillar: A¢cbomer the fecond having taken Con/tantinople, with the

blow ofa Zagaye or Mace of Arms, beat off the under jaw of oneof thofe

Tilifman a- heads, and fome fay that this pillar being placed there for a Talifman againft gainft Ser- ferpents, that breach is the caufe that ferpents have come there fince, which pents. before they did not; however they do hurt,becaufe ( fay they ) the pillar is till in being there. There are two other fair pillars in the Town, the one very

Hiftorical . ancient, called the Hiltorical Pillar, becaufe all round from the bottom to the Pillar. top, itis full of figures in bas relief, like thofe of Avtoninus and Trajan at Rome, and it is faid to be the Hiftory ofan Expedition, of Arcadiws, who erected it,

and put his Statue on the top; you may goupto the top bya winding ftair-

Burnt Pillars cafe that is withinit. The other is called the burnt pillar, becaufe it is all black, having been fcorched by a fire that broke out in fome adjoyning

houfes which fpoil’d it fo much, that they have been forced to gird it about

with

1

Part I. Travels into the LEVANT. 23

with great bars of Iron to keep it tight, and hinderit from falling 5 it is of eight pieces of Porphyrian Marble, which were fo well joyned together be- fore that fire, that it appeared to be but one fingle Stone ; and, indeed, the feams were hid and covered by Lawrel-branches cut upon them ; but at pre- fent they are eafily feen. .

me H ALP. XVII Of the Grand Signior’s Serraglio.

‘THe Serraglio of the Grand Signier is the firft thing that one fees in coming serraglio.

to Conffantinople by Sea; it affords a very pleafant Profpect, becaufe of

the Gardens on the Water-fide ; but the Architecture of the Fabrick is nothing

at all magnificent; it is, on thecontrary, very plain in refpect of what the

Palace of fo powerful a Prince ought tobe. Serra: in Turkith fignifies a Pa- Serrai and

lace, and the Franks by corruption, call it Serraglio, taking it, it feems, only e"4/0

‘for the Appartment where the Women are fhnt up ; as if they derived that

word from the French Serrer, or the Italian Serrar, which fignifies to clofe

or fhut ; but the word is Turkifh, and fignifies a Palace, and the Grand Sig-

niors is called Serrai or Serraglio by excellence. It is built in the place where, in

ancient times Byzantium ftood, upon the Hill of Sandimitri, which is a point of Hill of San-

the main land looking to the Chanal of the Black Sea: The Lodgings are upon dirt.

the top of the Hill, and the Gardens below : This Palace is three miles about, ‘The bigner

and is of a triangular Figure, of which two fides are upon the Sea, enclofed of the Serra-

within the Town Walls ; and betwixt the Walls and the Sea, there is a little gho.

rifing Key, but no body dares gothere, efpecially on the fide of the Port,

before he be paft the Serraglio ; the third fide is feparated from the Town by

good Walls, fortified with feveral Towers, as wellas thofe to the Sea fide, in

. which Towers there are always fome Aadgemoglans in Sentinel: Thefe Aadge~ Aadgemoglans,

moglans are the refufe of the tribute Children, out of whom they chufe the

more witty and dextrous, and inftruct them in order to be advanced to places,

and thofe who have fewelt parts, are employed in mean and clownifh imploy-

ments, as to be Gardners,Grooms and fuch like. On the fide of the Port, over

againft Galata, there isa Kzonsk or Pavillion upon the Key, not raifed very high Kiousk,

from the ground ; it is fupported by feveral Marble Pillars,and there the Grand

Signior comes often to take the Air; at this place he takes water when he in-

tendsto divert himfelf in his Galiot upon the Sea. On the other fide of the

Serraglio towards the Sea, and the feven Bowers, there is another kind of Pa- Another

villion pretty high, where the Prince often diverts himfelf alfo; it is built Kiousk.;

upon Arches, and below it upon the Wall there are marks of Crofles ; the

Greeks fay that it was formerly a Church: There is alfo a Fountain there,

where thofe of that Nation go on the day of the Transfiguration, and make The Ceremo:

the Sick drink the Water of it, burying them in the Sand about up to the ny of the

Neck, and immediately after uncovering them again ; and many whoare very iar be

well in health do the like. The Grand Signior is that day commonly at his Aenean a

Window, where he diverts himfelf with the pranks they play, without be- ©

ing feen. Neartothat placethere is a great Window, out of which thofe

who are ftrangled in the Serraglio, are thrown into the Sea in the night-

time, and as many Guns are fired, as there are Bodies thrown out; a great

many pieces of Cannon lye there upon the fhoar unmounted. This Palace

hath many Gates, to the water-fide, but they are only for the Grand Signior

and fome of the Serraglio ; the chief Gate of it looks towards Santa Sophia The chief

which is near by: That being the Common Gate is guarded by Capidgis, it Gate of the

Opens into a very fpacious Court, where at firft you fee to the right Hand the 477"

Infirmerie, whither they carry the fick of the Serraglio ina little clofe Chariot, The Infirme-

drawn by two men; when they fee that Chariot, every one fteps afide to ric of the make Serraglio.

Ne Travels into the Levant. Part L

make way for it, even the Grand Signior, if he happen’d to meet it would do Dgebehane. fo. A little farther to the left Handisthe Dgebebane, or Magazine of Cuirafles, Veftry of covered with Lead; that building was heretofore the Veftry of Santa Sophia, Santa Sophia. which fhews how big a Church it has been initstime.. From that Court you See oe go to the fecond,which is not fo big as the former,and is in a fquare, extending ae ener" two hundred paces every way; all round it there is a Gallery in form of a F Cloyiter, fupported by feveral Marble Pillars , and covered with Lead: At the back of that Gallery to theright Hand, there are nine Domes ranging from one end of the Court to the other, all covered with Lead, and thefe The Kitchins are the Kitchins ; to the left Hand at the back of the Gallery alfo, is the of the Serra Stable, where none but the Horfes which are for the Grand Signiors own Sito. Sadle itand; the other Stables being towards the Sea, along that fide of the sales. Serraglio which looks to the Propontis ; none but the Grand Signior enters this fecond Court on Horfeback, “all others alight without at the Gate ofthis: The Janifaries draw up in this Court under the Gallery to the right, and the The Foun- Horfe to the left. In the middle of it there is amoft lovely Fountain, ffa- tainof the dowed over with feveral Sycamore Trees and Cypreffes, and near to this Foun- Serraglin ‘tain the Grand Signior caufed heretofore the Heads of the Bafhaws and other perfons of Quality tobe cut off. At the end of this Court, on the left Hand, is the Hall where the Divaz fits, and on the right a door which gives entry into the Serraglio, but that entry is only allowed to thofe who have orders to come that way ; fo then, fince I had no call, and this place being all myfterie, The Fabrick I fhall not attempt to fpeak of it. The Fabrick of this Serraglio, by what one of the Serra- can fee of it on the outfide, is no ways regular, all that is to be feen are but glio. feparated Appartments in form of Domes, fo that there is nothing to be diftinguifhed, and one cannot tell what to make of it. The Grand Signior lodges in this Serraglio, has his Officers, who have a great many under them; Officers. Moît part of thefe Officers are Eunuchs, and generally all Blacks; heretofore it was thought enough to geld them, but a Grand Signior having one day, as The reafon he was walking, perceived a Gelding covering a Mare, fo foon as he was come why the Eu- home, ordered all that the Eunuchs had remaining -to be cut clear off, and rage fince that time it hath been the conftant cuftom to cut all off clear to the Whence come Belly, whichis done when they are but about eight or ten years old : It is the black true, a great many dye of it; butthe Bafhams of the Governments that bor- Eunuchs der upon Abyffia or Ethiopia, and other Countries of the Negroes, caufe fo ma- - Ary fide ny to be gelt, that they have enough, both for prefents of the handfomett Eunuchs tothe Grand Signior, and for attending their own Women. Thefe Eunuchs guard and have the fole government of the Serraglio; fuch of them as have the care of look tothe the Women, who are all lodged in a feparate appartment together, are fo Women. watchful and exact in looking after them, that there is no Woman cunning enough to deceive thofe half men, becaufe they know that the Grand Signior is commonly fo jealous, that a fingle view of one of his Wives would coft him that faw her his life; and when the Swltanas walk in the Gardens of the Bofancis. . Sérraglio; the Boftangis or Gardners , ftand round the Walls, and holding In what po- Staves, to which large and long pieces of Cloth are faftned behind them, look fcure are the towards the Sea, making in that manner a kind of a Wall betwixt them and Gardners — the Garden, to hinder the S#taaas from being feen from abroad, they them- aa the | felves not daring to look upon them, for fear, leaft being perceived by fome rand Signior : : À ET walks with Eunuch, he might make their heads flie off upon the fpot ; this jealoufe goes his Wives in fo far, that they fuffer no Boats to come nearer than four hundred paces of the Gardens. the Garden, whilft the Swleazas are there, though the Walls be high, and Sie el there are Sentinels on purpofe to fire at them if.they do not ftand off; fo Grand Signior, that thofe who have bufinefs by Water, muft fomtimes fetch a great compafs Eunuchs about. The Eunuchs alfo have the charge of the Jchnoglans , or the Grand keepersof Sigmors Pages, whoare all youths, forthe moft part of Chriftian extraction, the Pages. made Adahometans, and educated in the Serraglio, with great care, from eight pre of tO twenty years of age; fomeare taught to fhoot an Arrow, dart the Zaguye, the Pages. fita Horfe well, Wreftle, Read, Write and Sing, and the reft any thing elfe * that fuits with their talents and inclination, but they are all indifpenfably brought up in the Law of AZzhomet ; if they have parts they rife to great Offices, if not, after fome years, they are turned out of the Serraglies and ave

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Part L Travels into the LEVANT. 25

have pay proportionable tothe employments they undertake ; but fo longas they live in the Serraglio, they are fure of blows with a Cudgel, as often as they commit a fault. They are divided into Chambers, and many of them “being thwackt together into one Room, they are not a little ftraitned ; -whenthey are in Bed, Eunuchs watch over them, walking up and down the Room, leaft they fhould flip out of one Bed into another, for the Jrchoglans "are not gelt. The chief charge that they can rife to whilft they are Pages in the Serraglio, is to be of the number of the forty that come neareft the perfon of the Grand Signior,of whom thechief fourare the Selibbtar, who carries Forty Pages the Princes Sword: The 7/choadar, who carries his Yagmourluk, or Cloak for WAtmE pie rain ; the Jbriar, who carries always water in a vellel, to pour upon his eagle iS Hands, if he have a mind to wafh ; and the Kuptar, who carries a Pot with : | Sorbet, to give him to drink when he is dry: Thefe fonr always wait upon Four Chief the Grand Signior when he goes abroad out of the Serraglio, and from thefe Pages. Offices they are advanced to the higheft places of the Empire. Befides this The Selthhrar. great Serraglio, there is another in Conftantinople, which is called the old Ser- pitied ; raglio, where heretofore the Prince lodged, but which at prefent ferves only ca

for lodgings for the Wives of the Grand Sigmior that laft died, whither they The Old Ser- are all fent,unlefs it be fome whom the Grand Signior now reigning, taking alik- 7430

ing to, retains in the Serraglio; they are guarded very ftrictly by Eunuchs in this ea old Serraglio, and that till death, unlefs the Grand Signior think fit that they Pines. marry fome great men of his Court. This Palace is well built, it isenclofed -

within very high Walls, which have no opening but the Gate, fo that it is

not unlike to a Nunnery amongft us: There is moreover a Serraglio of the

Grand Sigmors at Pera, near to the Houfe of the French Ambaflador, where {e- . other sep. veral Jéchoglans are kept under the guard of an Aga, who having fpent fome yaoi at Pera, time there, the duller are fent out with pay, and the reft come to the Ser- raglio tobe entertained in the Grand Signior’s fervice. Befides thefe Serraglio’s

the Grand Signior has others in the Country,both in Europe and Afia, which have

all fine Gardens, and many Boftangis to look after them, who are under the

command of the Bostang: Bafha or chief of the Gardners. This is one of Bofangi. Ba- the beft places of the Empire; for the Boffangi Bafha has lodgings in the Jha. Serraglio, and neverthelefs he wears a Beard, none but the Grand Signior and |

he doing fo ; for allthereft are fhaved asa mark of their fervitude : Befides

he having the Princes Ear, whom he often attends when he goes abroad to

take the Air, either in the Gardens, or upon the Water, where he fits at

the Helm of the Boat or Galiot that carries the Grand Signior , there is no

doubt, but he is in great Power, and much confidered, not only at the Port,

‘ but over the whole Empire: Whenthe Grand Signor puts any perfon of qua-

lity to death at Conftantinople, he commonly fends the Boffangi Bafha to bring

him his Head.

CofA Pe KIX.

Of the otber Serraglios, Flint Private Houfes, and Bezeflins of Conftantinople.

Here are alfo many Serraglios of private perfons in Conftantinople, but they have no beauty on the outfide, on the contrary they are very ug- ly, and it would feem that they affect to make them have but little fhow Spite out, for fear of giving jealoufie to the Grand Signior : Thefe Palaces are : ‘great, and encompafled all round with high Walls like our Monafteries ; they O7namen have very lovely Appartments within, adorned with Gold and Azure, and aie : the Floor they walk upon covered with fine ce which is the reafon that

men

c

26 Travels imo the Levant. Part I.

mencommonly put off their Shoes when they enter them, for fear of fpoil-

ing the Carpets: The Walls are faced with pure Tiles, like China: In all the

Halls and Chambers they have a rifing half a foot or a foot high from the

* Floor, which they call Divans ; and thefe are covered with richer Carpets,

than the reft of the Room, with embroidered Cufhions fer againft the Wall;

upon thefe Divans they reft, receive vifits, and fpend the beft part of the

day. In all Palaces the Womens appartment is feparated from the reft of

the Lodgings, and no Man entersit, unlefs the Mafter of the Houfe, or fome

Eunuch. There are alfo many great buildings in the City, in form of the

Cloyfters of Monks, which they call Mavs; they confift for the moft part of

a large fquare Court, in the middle whereof there is a Fountain witha great

Bafon, and Arches all round the Court, under which, all along the Walls, are

the Doors of the Chambers, which are ali alike, and have each of them a

Chimney : Thefe Arches fupport a Gallery that ranges all round the Court,

The Lodge. 48 that below ; and this Gallery has alfo Chambers onthe fide, like to thofe

ings of Mer- that are underneath ; thefe Hazs,are for lodging of Merchants. If you would

chants, have a lodging room there, you muft fpeak to the Porter of the Aa”, who

keeps all the Keys, and for opening it, as they callit, you give him a Piaffre,

or half Piaffre ; and for every day you ftay there, one, two, or three Apres,

according to the rate that is fet ; you may hirea Ware-houfe for goods in

the fame manner. Thefe Has are very well built, and the chief Walls are

of Free-ftone. The faireft in Conffantinople,is that which called Valida Hbane,

the Han of the Sultana Mother, becaufe the Mother of the prefent Grand

Signior built it: It is a very convenient place for ftrangers, who always find

a Houfe ready to hire, and at an eafie rate, fo that having a Quilt, fome

Coverings, Carpets and Cufhions, you have a furnifhed Houfe to lodge in;

and thefe Hams yield a very confiderable revenue to thofe to whom they be-

is Houfes long, As tothe Houfes of Con/tantinzople, they are very ordinary, and almoft

of Conflantino- “Of Wood, which is the caufe that when Fires happen, as they do very ple mean. : ° 5

often, they make great havock amongft them, efpecially if a wind blow:

_ . there were three Fires in Couftantinople in the {pace of eight months that I

Ce fojourned there; the firft hapned on the day of my arrival, and burnt down

vases eight thoufand Houfes ; the other two were not fo great. In the time of

DIvanse

ans.

Sale Sultan Amurat, fuch a-fire raged there for three days, and three nights, as ruined one half of the Town; it is true, the Houfes being but little, and

built more of Timber than any thing elfe, they are foon rebuilt again, and Baltadgis. for a finall matter. For putting a flop to thefe fires, there are mén called

Baltadgis, that’s to fay, Hatchet-men, who have a conitant pay from the Grand Signior: When a fire breaks out in any place , they beat down the neighbouring Houfes with Hatchets, beginning fometimes twenty or thirty Houfes from the fire ; for the fire runs fo faft, that it is foon up with them; thefe fires moft commonly are occafioned by Tobaco; for the Turks eafily fall Gaufes ef fire. afleep with a lighted Pipe in their mouths ; and feeing they fmoak when they are in Bed, itis very eafie for the Fire that falls out of their Pipes, to take on materials that are fo prepared to receive it. Thefe accidentsof fireare | fometimes alfo occafioned by the Souldiers, who raife a fire with defign to rob Houfes, whilft the people are Iabouring to quench it. The ftreets of Conffantinople are very ugly being for the moit part narrow,crooked,up-hilland down-hill. There are feveral Market-places in the City ; but one muft fee the Great Bege. Bat Bezeftain, which is a very large round Hall,built ail of Free-ftone, and lain, enclofed with very thick Walls; the Shops are within round the Hall, asin Weft minfter-Hall ; and in thefe Shops the moft coftly Goods are to be fold: There are four Gates into this Hall, which are very ftrong, and fhut every night; no body lies there, and all the care they take is to fhut their Shops The litle 8e. Well at night. There is another Bezeftaia in the City, but lefs, where Goods rain. of fmaller value are to be fold. ; 0 2

*

CHAP.

>

Part L Travels into the LEVANT. 27

CLEA Po 2x

/

Of Caffampafha, Galata, Pera, and ‘Tophana.

¥ YaAving faid enough of Constantinople, we muft now pafs over to Galaba, which is, as it were the Suburbs of it. Galata is feparated from Conftan- tinople by the Port that is betwixt them ; there are on both fidesa great ma- : ny Caiques and Permes, which will carry you over for a very {mall matter, and Caiques: land you where you havea mind to be; Caiques are {mall Boats, and the Per- Permess mes are little flight Boats or Wherries, and fotick’lifh, that by leaning more to one fide than another, it is an eafie matter to overfet them. You may goto Galata by land, if you'll fetch acompafs rond the Port whichis very fpacious, having crofled a little River of frefh water, that difcharges it felf into the Harbour ; you go towards Galata, and by the way you firft find the Ocmeidan, or field of Arrows; it is a large place where the Turks practife Archery, and come in proceflion to make their Prayers to God for the profpe- Ocmeidan rity of their Armies, and for whatfoever they ftand in need of: Then you come to Caffumpafha, which feems to be a great Village; there by the water fide is the Arfenal, where Gallies, AZzoves, and Ships are built ; it contains fixfcore arched Docks or Houfes, where Gallies may be put under cover, or new ones built. The Capoudan Baha, or Admiral has his lodgings in the capoydan Bu: Arfenal, where he commands, and all who belong to the Sea, depend on him: hr. In the fame Arfenal is the Bagnio for the Grand Signiors, flaves, which is very fpacious : From thence you come to Galata, feparated from Caffumpafha only by the burying places that are betwixt them. Galata is a pretty large Town, over againft Confféntinople, from which it is feparated by the Port or Harbour ; it belonged hererofore to the Genocfe, and then was pretty confiderable ; there is ftillalarge Tower to be feen init, which they long held out againft the — Turks, after they were Mafters of Constantinople ; the Houfes are good and well built ; many Greeks live there, and it is the ufual refidence of the Francks. In Galata there are five Monafteries of religious Francks, to wit of the Corde- liers, and their Churchis called St. A4arie; of the Obfervantines or Conventu- al Cordeliers, and their Church is called St. Francis ; of the Facobins, who have St. Peters Church; of the Yefmits, who have St. Benet’s Church; and ofthe Ca- pucins, who havethe Church of St.George. By the Sea-fide there is the fineft Fifh-market in the World, it is a Street with Fifh-mongers fhops on both fides, who have fo great quantity of Fifh upon their Stalls, that it would furprife a man to fee it: There one may find all forts of frefh Fifh, and at a very cheap rate. The Greeks keep many Taverns or Publick Houfes in Galata, which draw thither many of the Rabble from Conftautinople, who are very infolent in their drink, and very dangerous to be met with. Going up from Galata you come to Pera, which is likewife feparated from Galata by Burying-places ; it isa kind of a Town where Chriftian Ambaffadors dwell ; only the Ambafia- dors of the Emperor, King of Poland, and Republick of Ragou/z having their refidence in Conftantinople. The French Ambaflador is very commodionfly lodged. in Pera, having a fair large Palace, which is called the Kings Houfe, and has on all hands a good Profpect,looking one way towardsthe Serraglio of the Grand Signior, over againft which it ftands upon a higher ground than the Serraglio, Pe- ra lying very high: The Houfes of Pera are handfome, and hardly any body lives there but Grecks of Quality. From Pera to 7 ophana there isa great defcent, and Tophana lies upon the Rivers fide over againft the Serraglio: It is called Tophana, that is to fay, the Houfe of Cannon, becaufe it is the place where Guns, and other Pieces of Artillery are caft, and that gives the name to all that Quarter, which is a kind of little Town. The Houfes of Galata, Pera, and Tophana are built in fo good order, ae thefe places ftand, fome higher,

r 2 ; ana

Ul

28

Travels into the LEVANT Part I.

Ifcodar,

Sword-fifh,

and fome lower, they reprefent a kind of Amphitheater, from whence with eafe and pleafure the Port and Sea may be feen.

C EOALPO XT

Of Leander’s Tower, ares ibe Princes Ife, and the Black Sea.

Hough the Countrey about Conftantinople be not fo delightful, nor fo well peopled, as in France; yet it isnot without pleafant Walks; you muft

take a Caique, and go to Sexdaret, called in Turkifh J/codar, and it is a good mile over to it: You pafs by the Tower of Leander, which ftands betwixt the Serraglioand Scudaret, and you may go into it if you pleafe. This Tower is built upon a Rock in the Sea, and is pretty ftrong ; there are feveral great Guns mounted in it, which may batter the Port of Cozffantinople, and the two mouths of the Bofphorus of Thrace and of the Propontis, or, asthey fay, of the Black nnd White Seas; there is a Well of excellent good frefh Water in this Tower, but I cannot tell why they call it Leader's Tower. From thence you go to Scadaret, which is a Village in Afiz, upon the Sea-fide, over againft the Serraglio of Constantinople ; where the Grand Signior hatha fttately Serraglio, and very lovely Gardens. A little lower, on the fame fide, over againft the feven Towers, ftands Chalcedon ; a Town anciently Famous, and'celebrated by the Fourth general Council that was held there ; but, at prefent, it is no more but a pitiful Village. The Princes Ifle, which is four hours going from Comstanti- nople, is another Walk, where the Air is excellently good > though this Ifle be not great, yet itis very pleafant, and contains two little Towns of Greeks. The Chanel of the Black Sea is a rare place to take the Air upon; this is the Bofphorus of Thrace, which coming from the Black Sea to Constantinople, enters into the Propontis, and mingles its Waters with the White Sea; at the broadeft place it is about a mile over, and is twelve miles in length. Going from Tophana towards this Chanel, you fee to the left-hand, on the fide of Europe, a great many lovely Houfes and Gardens ; when you have entered into the Chanel, you have on both fides the moft charming and delightful Profpect in the World ; nothing offering to your view but ftately Houfes, and Gardens full of all forts of excellent Fruits: Upon the fide, in Afiz, I faw a very pretty Caftle, where Sultan Ibrahim, the Father of Sultan Mahomet, who Reigns at prefent, was hid for the fpace of twenty years, to avoid the Death which Sultan Amurath put his other Brothersto. This Caftle is covered with many very high Trees, that hinder it from being feen, which is the reafon (as thofe who live there told us) that few come to fee it. Along both the fhores, there are alfo a great many good Villages, where one may have whatfoever is needful. They take in this Chanel great quantities of good Fifh, of feveral forts, efpecially Sword-fifh, which are great, and fo calied, becaufe on their Snout they have a long broad bone, like a Sword, or rather a Saw ; there are many Dolphins to be feen there, which follow Boats, playing and leaping out of the Water. Six miles from Constantinople, there are two Forts on this Sea, the one in Ewrope;and the other in Æf4, which ferve for Prifons for Perfons of qua- lity,and were built to puta ftop to the Cofacks,who(were it not for that)would often come and make Booty,even in Constantinople,feeing, notwithftanding thefe Forts, they fometimes give the alarm to that City: In three or four hours time one comes to the end of the Chanel or Bo/phorus of Thrace, where the Black Sea begins.. In the middle of this mouth, which is very narrow, there is a little Ifle, or rather Rock, diftant on each hand from the main Land about fifty paces, where being come, you may go up to the top of it, and there fee a Pillar of white Marble, which is called the Pillar of Pompey, becaufe (they

fay)

>

Part L Travels into the Levant. 40

fay) it was raifed by Pompey in memory of his Victory, after that he had overcome Æithridates. Clofe by this Rock, and round it, there are feveral others fcattered here and there in the Water, which many take to be the Cyanean Mes, or Symplegades. On the main Land of Europe fide, over againft the Rock of Pompey’s Pillar, there is a Village on the Water-fide with a Tower, on the top whereof there is a Light, for the convenience of Veflels, that by miftake they may not run foul of the Rocks and be caft away ; for that’s a very dangerous Sea, and many fhipwrecks are made in it every year; fo that the Greeks call it Maurothalaf{z, that is to fay, the Black Sea ; not becaufethe Wa- Maurothalaga, ters of it are black,but becaufe Storms and Tempefts rife on it fo fuddenly, that they caufe many loffes; and though the Weather be never fo fair, yet Vef- fels are often furprifed there in a moment ; for befides that, this Sea is not very broad, there are feveral Currentsin it caufed by the Danube, Boristhenes, Tanais, and many other fmaller Rivers that difcharge their Waters into it, which occafion fo many Eddies, that many times Veflels are carried upon the Rocks, and there perifh. The Antients called this Sea Pontus Euxinus , a Name that hath been changed and foft’ned from that of Axinos, which in Latin fignifies Zzhofpitabilis, one that ufes his Guefts unkindly ; asin Jtaly, the the City which was fince called A4alventum, was named Beneventum. If you go a-fhore onthe fide of Ewrove, you'll fee a very fine Countrey, full of Gardens, and good Pafture Ground ; and in this Countrey there are feveral Villages inhabited by Greeks: A little further up in the Countrey, on the fame fide, there are very lovely Aqueducts, that carry water to Constantinople,

GE ASP OTE.

Of the Shape and Strength of the Turks. Of their Apparel. Way of Saluting. And of their

Manners.

Have given but a fhort account of all the places of Con/tantizople that I have | feen, becaufe many others have treated largely of them: I fhall now fay fomething of the Shape, Strength, Cloathing, Cuftoms and Manners of the Turks; according to what I could obferve and learn. The Turks are com- The Shape of monly well fhaped, having a well proportioned body, and are free from many the Turks. defects which are more common in other Countries of Europe ; for you fee nei- ther Crooked nor Criples amongft them, and it is not without reafon, that it __ is faid, Asftrong as a Turk; they being for the moft part robuft and ftrong. Their Habit is fit to make them feem proper, and it covers defects far more The? Turks eafily than the Casons or Pantaloons of France ; next their skin, they wear a Habit advan- pair of Drawers, which fhut alike behind and before ; theirShirt (which hath tagious. fleeves like our Womens Smocks, and is flit in the fame manner). comes over their Drawers; they have a Doliman above their Shirt, which is like a clofe- potiman. bodied Caflock,that reaches down to the heels, and hath ftreight fleeves, ending : in a little round flap that covers the back of their hands; thefe Dolimans are made of Stuff, Taffeta, Sattin, or other neat ftriped Stuffs ; and in Winter they have them quilted with Cotton ; over the Doliman, they gird themfelves about the fmall of the wafte with a Safh,that may ferve them for a Turban,when it is wreathed about the head ; or with a leathern Belt two or three fingers broad, adorned with Gold or Silver Buckles. At their girdle they commonly wear two Daggers, which they call Cangiars, and are properly knives in a fheath ; but the handles and Sheaths are garnifhed with Gold or Silver, and fometimes with Precious-ftones ; or elfe the handles are only of the Tooth of a Fifh, which they efteem incomparably more than Ivory, and fell a pound of it very

Cangiar.

30 ,

Feredge.

SAMOUre

Meftes.

Paboutches.

Turban.

The Hair

Travels into the LEVANT. Part I, very dear. They carry two Handkerchiefs at their girdle, one on each fide, and their Tobacco-pouch hangs alfoat'it; their Purfe being in their bofom, as many things elfe are, to wit, their Papers and foul Handkerchiefs, for they ufe their bofoms as we do our.pockets. Over the Doliman they wear a Feredge, which is like our Night-gown, having very wide fleeves, and about as long as the arm, though they hang not always fo far down, this ferves them for a Cloak, and in the Winter-time they line it with rich Furrs, and fuch as are able, willingly lay out four or five hundred Piaffres for a Lining of Sables, which they call Samour. Their Stockins.are of Cloth the length of the leg, the feet whereof are focks of yellow or red Leather, according totheir quality, fewed to the Stockins ; they call thefe Socks A&Stes. Their Shoes are of the fame colour, and made almoft like Slippers, the heel is equal to the reft of the fole, only it is fhod with a piece of Iron made purpofely half-round, and thefe Shoes they call Paboutches. Their head is covered witha crimfon Velvet Cap, without brims, gilded in the in-fide, and round that, they wreath a white or red Turban: This Turban is a {carf of Linnen or Silk ftuff, many Eils long, and the whole breadth of the ftuff, which they turn feveral times about © their head, and they wreath it inmany fafhions ; fo that the condition or qua- lity of the Man may be known by the way he wears the Turban, and other head- attire, whereof we fhall {peak hereafter: Some fafhions of them are very dif- ficult to be made, and there are people whofe trade and profeflion is to make them up, as Dreflers are with us. As for the Kindred of A¢zhomer, whom the call Scherifs, they wear a green Turban, (the word Scherif fignifies Noble)

-and none but thofe of that Racedare take to themfelves this Title, or wear

green on the head, there being no other way to diftinguifh them but by their colour. Thefe Blades (who have only an imaginary Nobility) are very nume- rous, and for the moft part Beggars, if you except fome Princes which they have ftill in fome States of Arabia and Africa, of whom we fhall treat in ano- ther place. Thefe Scherifs give-it out, that they have this particular vertue in themfelves, That throw them into a fiery Furnace, they’il come out without any hurt. . The Women of this Race, are alfo to beknown by a piece of green ftuff which they have faftened to their Veil on the fore-part of their head. But

‘to returnto the Turks Apparel; l-look upon it to be very commodious, and,

indeed, it is the Habit moit generally ufed-in the World, if you exceptfome Northern and Weftern Provinces. The Turks fhave their heads, and think

and Beards of it ftrange that the Fraacks fuffer their Hair to grow; for they fay that the De-

the Turks.

vil neftles in it; fothat they are not fubject to that filth and naftinefs which breed among our Hair, if we be not careful to comb it well: But they let their Beard and Muftachios grow, except thofe who are brought up and have Off- ces in the Serraglio ; for none there but the Grand Signior, and the Bostangi Bajha, fuffer it to grow; and they havea great efteem for a Man that hath a lovely Beard ; it is a great affront to one to take him by the Beard, unlef it be to kifs him, as they often do ; they fwear by their Beard, as alfo by the Head of their Father, of the Grand Signior, and fuch like Oaths. When they

The Turkifh falute one another, they uncover not the head, and to do fo would be an

way of falu- ting,

The more hononrable fide.

affront ; but only laying their hand upon the breaft, and bowing alittle, they fay, Sela meon aleicom, which is afmuch as to fay, Peace be with you; and he that is faluted, does the like, and anfwers, Aleicom effelam ve rabhmet vllah, which is to fay, Peace be with you, and God’s Mercy alfo; and fuch other : Benedidtions. In fine, that way of faluting is very grave, and was, indeed, the ancient way of Salutation, as appears by Holy Scripture. The left hand is the more honourable with the Turks, becaufe it is the Sword-fide 3 fothat he who is on the right-hand, has the Sword under the hand of him whom he would honour. Whena Turk walks with a Chriftian, he will not willingly give him the lefthand; and it is very eafieto make them agree as to that. point; for feeing withus the right hand is the more honourable, both of them are in the place of honour.

' CHAP.

»

Travels into the Lev ant. 31

\

| RC APE" OC ant Of Baths or Bagnios

WHE Turks make great ufe of Bathing, both for keeping their bodies neat and clean, and for their healths fake: For that purpofe, they have | many fair Bagnios in their Towns ; and the forrieft Village that is, has at leaft Bagnios. a Bagnio ; they are all made after the fame fafhion, and there is no difference,

- but} that fome are bigger, and more adorned with marble than others. Vil defcribe that which is at Tophana, near toa fair Mofque, as being one of the lovelieft that I have feen. You enter into a large fquare Hall, about twenty A Defcripti- paces in length, and of a very high roof; all round this Hall there are 444- on of Bagnios Stabez, or benches of ftone againit the wall, above a fathom broad, and half Maftabez. —

- as high, which are all covered with mats; fo foon as you come, they fpread you out a large napkin (which they call Foutz) upon the faid benches, where Fonte. you fit down, and lay your cloaths after you have ftript: In the middle of this Hall, there is a great Fountain, witha large Bafon of marble, for wafh- ing the Linnen that hath been ufed ; and when they are wafhed, they are hung up todry upon poles which are on high, all round the Hall, When you have fate down upon the napkin. which they have fpread for you, they bring you another to put before you, which you tie over your fhirt, before you pull it

- off, (left you fhould fhow what ought not to be feen, which would be a great crime) that covers yon behind and before, from the girdle down to the knees : Having pull'd off your fhirt, you put it with your cloaths in the napkin you fate upon, leaving them there without fear that any body will touch them,, for the Bagnios are places of liberty and fecurity, as though they were facred, and thereisno cheat ever committedin them; for if any were, the Mafter of the Bagnio would be obliged to make good what was loft orembeziled. After you are ftript, you enter by a little door intoa fmall room, fomewhat hot ; and from thence, by another door, into the great Hall, which is very hot. All thefe Halls are made with Domes, having little glafs windows to let in the light. This great hot Hall is of a Pentagone figure, each fide being fuppor- ted by two Pillars of white marble ; on each fide there is a marble edging or rifing, about half a foot high; and in the middle of that, in the floor, about two foot from the wall, there is a little Bafon of white marble, two foot broad, and over it a cock of warm water; and a hands breadth above this cock, another cock, for cold water, fo that you mingle them as you pleafe ; then you take large copper Cups (which are alwaies ready for that ufe) and with them throw upon yourfelf as much water as youhave a mind. Inthis Hallalfo, there is a large ftone-Fat full of hot water, whereinto you may go if you pleafe ; but that is not fafe, becaufe a great many Rogues, who have feve- ral difeafes, go into it, thoughthe water be often changed ; but if you be fure that no body has as yet beeninit, you may wafh yourfelfthere. So foon as you enter into that great Hall, you fit down upon the flat floor, which is all of marble, heated by Furnaces underneath ; then comes a Servant ftark naked, except thofe parts which modefty requires to be covered, (the Servants of the Bagnio are always fo, that they may/be in readinefs to wait upon thofe that come) and making you lye out at length upon your back, he puts his knees upon your belly and breaft,and embracing you very ftreight,makes all the bones of your body, arms and legs, crack again, to ftretch and foften the finews ; then laying you upon your belly, he does the like on your back, treading upon it, fo that he often makes you kifs the ground ; after that, having fhaved your chin, and under the arm-pits, he gives you a rafor to fhave yourfelf every where elfe ; and you go into one of the little chambers, that are made in the intervals betwixt the fides,and being there, you take off your napkin and hang it upon the door, that fo every one that fees it may know there is fome Pas

‘ within,

€

L

32 Travels into ibeLEvaNT. . Pare L

within, which will hinder them from coming in, and there you may fhave your- felf at your leifure: If you be afraid that you may hurt yourfelf with a Razor, The way of they give you a bit of Pafte, made of a certain mineral, called Kufma, beat ufing Rufma. into a powder, and with lime and water made up into a Paîte, which they apply tothe parts where they would have the hair fetcht off, and in lefs than half a quarter of an hour, all the hair falls off with the Paite, by throwing hot water upon it: They know when it is time to throw on water, by trying if the hair comes off with the Pafte ; for if it be left too long fticking on the place, after it had eaten offthe hair, it would corrode the flefh. Ru/ma is a What Rujma mineral like to the ruft or drofs of Iron; it is much in ufe in Turky, and fold is in fo great quantities, that the Cuitom of it yields the Grand Sigmor a confi- derable Revenue. In Malta they ufe inftead of Rufma, Orpiment, which they mingle with lime for the fame ufe. Having taken off the hair, and put your napkin about you again, you return into the great Hall, where you fweat as long as you pleafe ; then comes a Servant with a Purfe of black Camlet, into which he puts his hand, and rubs your body fo hard all over, that he clears all. - the filth from your skin, yet without hurting you ; then he takes a lock of Silk, with abit of Soap in it, and therewith rubs and foaps you all over ; after which he throws a great deal of water upon your body, and wafhes your head alfo (if you pleafe) with Soap: Having done fo, he goes and brings you a dry napkin, which you put about you in the place of the wet one; then you return into the Hall where you left your cloaths, where fitting down, he pours water upon your feet, to wath off the filth that you may have got in coming ; and after that, he brings you hot and dry napkins, wherewith you rub and dry your skin; and when you cloaths are on again, and you have feen your- felf in a Looking-glafs«that another holds to you, you have no more to do, but to pay and be gone. The common price of the Bagrio, is two Afpres to the Mafter ; and they who would be well ferved, give as muclito the Man. Thefe Bagnios are very commodious, and I believe the frequent ufe they make of them, preferves them from many difeafes: The pooreft per- fon that is, Man or Woman, goes at leaft once a week tothe Bagnio. There are Bagnios, whither the Men go one day, and the Women another ; others, whither the Men goin the morning,and the Women afternoon;and others again folely for Women. Whenthe Women arethere, they are ferved by Women ; and it is a capital crime for any Man, of whatfoever religion or quality he be, The modefty to enter into the Bagnio where the Women are. It is alfo a great crime, of the Turks. but punifhable only by fhame, or fome Baftonadoes at moft, to fhow ones privy Parts, or to look upon another Perfon’s. Thefe Bagnios are heated underneath ; and Lords. of high quality have them in their houfes,’ for their own and Wives ufes.

CH: AP. XXIV. Of the Turks way of Eating, Drinking and Lying.

He Turks make no fumptuous Feafts, and it is never heard in Tarkée, that

a man hath undone himfelf by Houfe-keeping; a finall matter contents

them, and a good Cook in that Country would have but a very bad Trade

of it; for indeed they are all Cooks there, and they have no Sauces, but what

The Turkifh one may learn to make at firft fight. Their moft ufual food is that which they ae Pilani Call Pilau. This Pilan is Rice put into a Pot with a Pullet, a piece of Mutton. a UGE: and Beefy or only one of thefe ; and for want of Meat, with Butter ; and when the Rice has boyl'd alittle, they take it off, putting it into a large difh, with

a great deal of Pepper upon it, and fometimes Saffron, to make it look yellow :

Soffra, the When it is eating time, they fpread upon the ground a Carpet of Twrky Lea- Turks Table. ther, which they call Soffra, upon which they fet the Pilaw and pee aa reaking

~

¢

Part I. Travels into the LEVA NT. 33

breaking the Bread into pieces, they diftribute it all round ; then they fquat , down upon théir heels, like Taylors, about the Soffrz, and all make ufe of — one blew Napkin, that is long enough to go round the Seffra ; then having faid Bifmillah, that is to fay, In the name of God, which to them is inftead 2milub. of Benedicite, they eat their Pslau with wooden Spoons, a foot long, making a fcruple to eat in Gold or Silver ; and neverthelefs the Grand Signior has Difhes of Gold Plate, as we fhall fhew hereafter: When they have noSpoors, they make an éafie fhift without them, putting the P:laz with one hand into the other, and fo carrying it to their mouth: When they come to the Meat, one of the company with his Hands tears it to pieces, ufing no Knife for that, and then every one takes what they have a mind to: They areatno , trouble for the Beef and Mutton; for before it be dreft, they cut it into {mall pieces, whether for roafting or boyling. They drink not commonly — intime of meal, but when they have eaten, they rife and fill their bellies full of Water ; thenthey give God Thanks by a Handbllah, that is to fay, God be praifed. Having thus made an end of their meal, they wafh their hands 5 for they wath not before they fit down to eat, but only when they rife from it. Their ufual Drink is Water, many of themalfo drink Wine ; and though The Turks Wine feems to be Prohibited by the Alcoran, yet the good-fellows fay, that a it is no more but an advice or council, and not a precept: However, they Rien drink ft not publickly, unlefs it be the Janizaries, and other Defperadoes, that pid to drink ftand in awe of no Man ; when they fall todrinking, they drink a great deal, Wine. and if they can have it