The

Robert E. Gross Collection

. A Memorial to the Founder

of the

t lb

4 Business Administration Library J ilniver^i/u Miya/r/or-nta

Los Angeles

1

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FORREST, Thomas, from Balarabangan: aaid other Islands in the Tartar Gal Company, during t Thomas Forrest, 1] Magindano Tongue,' Whitestone etc.,

8vo., contemporar engraved plates. Plates' states 'G face Page 1* the issued in this ed East India Corapan v^fith a viev; to de far as Geelvink E pelago, the south Waygiou - which h Includes descript trees, suitable h fishing, descript Ceylon, the Engli from Indostan to

Magindano langus to Mindanao as v;e BI96 - the Londor printed edition i author of the 'Re India Trade' (Edi

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The

Robert E. Gross Collection

A Memorial to the Founder of the

Business Administration Library

Univeriifu ^/^aMo*

Los Angeles

5

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FORREST, Thomas, A Voyage to New Guinea, and the Moluccas, from Balambangan: Including an Account of Magindano, Sooloo, 3sid other Islands; Illustrated with Copper-Plates, Performed in the Tartar Galley, belonging to the Honourable East India Company, during the Years, 177^, 1775, and 1776, by Captain Thomas Forrest, To which is added, a Vocabulary of the Magindano Tongue. Dublin, for Messrs, Price, W, and H, Whitestone etc., 1779. /;, ^ery fine copy,

8vo,, contemporary calf. General folding map plus the three engraved plates. Although the 'Directions for Placing the Plates' states 'General Map, and Viev/ of Dory Harbour to face Page 1' the 'View of Dory Harbour' was apparently not issued in this edition, ** Forrest was instructed by the East India Company to explore in the direction of New Guinea with a viev; to developing sources of trade. He explored as far as Geelvink Bay in New Guinea, examining the Sulu Archi- pelago, the south coast of Mindanao, ^'^ndiolo, Batchian and Waygiou - which he ivas the first to charter accurately. Includes descriptions of the nutmeg, sago and breadfruit trees, suitable harbours for commercial activities, pearl fishing, description of the cinnamon manufacture and trade in Ceylon, the English factory at Borneo, advantages of trading from Indostan to Borneo etc. Appended is a vocabulary of

Magindano language which Forrest had gathered in his visit to Mindanao as v;ell as a short list of Papuan words, Kress BI96 - the London edition of the same year. The above, Dublin printed edition is also absent from the BMC. Forrest was also author of the 'Reflections on the Present State of the East- India Trade' (Edinburgh, I769.J £^8

DS

601

F77v

A

VOYAGE

T O

NEW GUINEA,

A N D T H E

MOLUCCAS,

FROM

BALAMBANGAN;

INCLUDING AN

Account of Magindano, Sooloo, and other Iflands ;

ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER-PLATES. PERFORMED IN THE

TARTAR GALLEY,

BELONGING TO THE

HONOURABLE EAST INDIA COMPANY,

During the Years, 1774, 1775, ^^^ '77^*

By Captain THOMAS FORREST.

TO WHICH IS ADDED,

A VOCABULARY

OF THE

MAGINDANO TONGUE.

ignotis errare l0ci3, ignota videre

littora gaudebat, studio minuente laboremt

Ovid. met. iv, 294.

D U B L I N :

•Printed for Meffls. Price, W. and H. Whitestonf,, Sle ater.

Potts, Willi AMS,MoNCRiF.FFE, Walker, Je\'Kin,

Hallhead, Beatty, Exshaw, nnd White.

M,DCC,LXXIX.

T O T H E

COURT OF DIRECTORS,

GF THE HONORABLE

EAST INDIA COMPANY.

Gentlemen,

H

A V I N G early devoted myfelf to your fer- vice, and been many years employed in it abroad, I cannot but feel myfelf peculiarly interefted in the profperity of this great Company, whofe ap- probation has been the ambition of my life.

When you were pleafed, in the year 1770, to confer upon me, by a fpecial commilTion, the com- mand of your marine, on the Weft-coaft of Suma- tra, I repaired thither, with the zeal fuch confi- dence muft infpire, and in the hope of opportunity to prove myfelf not quite unworthy of it.

Sometime after my arrival at Fort Marlborough, your plan of a fettlement on the Ifland of Balam- bangan, afforded me fuch opportunity : by per- miffion of the Governor and Council, I embarked with Mr. Herbert, who was appointed Chief on that Service.

I had not been long at Balambangan, when that Gentleman communicated to me your orders for exploring Illands to the eaftward, and propofed to me the honor of executing the arduous talk.

To

DEDICATION.

To the profitable command of the Britannia, vacant by the death ofCapt. Wilmot, I relinquifh- €d my unqueftionable right, in order to undertake the delicate as well as dangerous voyage ^ to which I could have no motive, but the ardor ofjullifying Mr. Herbert's choice of a perfon moft likely to ?iccomplifh the important defign of You, my ever honored employers.

How I have by kind Providence been enabled to do this, I here fubmit to the candor of the Honorable Company : nor could the reward, on v/hich I rely, be claimed before the fpecification of ihe Service. In the whole, I have the honor to be,

Gentlemen,

London, Ycur moft obedient,

Feb. Ill, 1779.

As moft devoted Servant, THOMAS FORREST.

INTRODUCTION.

/ 'B ^

A H E firll: dlfcovery of New Guinea,* or Tanna (Land) Papua, was made fo long ago as the year 151 1, by Antonio Ambreu, and Francivq Serrano, f

By the Portuguefe names given to certain har- bours, bays, and iflands, that we find on the north coaft of New Guinea, between v;hat is called Schouten's ifland and Solomon's iflands, it would feem that nation had in former days much fre- quented thofe parts. Nicholas Struyck, in a book publifhed at Amfterdam in 1753, gives a particu- lar account of places and iflands on the north coaft of this country, with Portuguefe names ; and fays, the Dutch endeavoured to conceal the knowledge of them. X New Guinea is alfo faid to have been difcovered by Alvaro de Saavedra in 152-, who fo called it, as being oppofite on the globe to

* Littora Novx Guinea:, infuls Salomonis, infuije de Los Ladrones, omnium harum infularum et regionum, fi commir- niter fpectentur, tempeiies humida eft, et moderate calida.

De Bry, fol. 34.

t Galvano Bares. — Dalrymple's Chron. Tab. of Dlfcovery. f Hiftoire des navigations aux tcrres Auftralcs.

b Guinea

iv INTRODUCTION.

Guinea in Africa. Antonio Urdanetta faw New Guinea in 1528.*

Ruy Lopez de Lobos, in 1543, fent from Tidore, towards New Spain, by the fouth fide of the line, a fhip commanded by Ortez de Rotha. That Captain failed to the coaft of Os Papuas, and ranged it ; but, not knowing that Saavedra had been there before him, he challenged the honour of difcovery. He called it New Guinea,f from the frizzled locks of the inhabitants : for the me- mory of Saavedra's voyage was almoft loft. J

Lopez Vaz relates, diat fometimc about the year 1567, Lopez de Caftro, governor of Peru, fent a fleet to difcover certain iflands in the South Sea. Alvarez de Mendanio was general. At the dif- tance of Sod leagues, they difcovered between g" and 11° of S. latitude, fome large iflands ; toge- ther, eighty leagues in compafs. The greatefl ifland was, accordijig to the firjl finder, called Gua- dalcanal. Here they landed, took a town, and found fmall grains of gold. He farther fays, " now at the time they thought of fettling thefe iflands. Captain Drake entering the South Seas, command was inilantly given, that the iflands fliould not be fettled, left the Englifli or other na-

* Hllloire des voyages, pr.r I'Abbe Prevot, tome 42 de I'euit. In-douze.

t Nova Guinea a naulis fic di£la, quod ejus littora locoruin- ijue facies Guincse Afiicanse admoduin funt finiilia. Ab Andrea Curfali vldetur die? terra Piccona. Linscmooten, p. 32S.

X Lord Oxfoixi's continuation, vol. II. p. 402.

tions,

INTRODUCTION.

tions, who pafTed the liraits of Magellan for the South Sea, fhould find there any fuccour but from the Indians." *

It is not impoflible, that purfuant to this, the Spaniards, in their pofterior charts, mifplaced Solomon's iflands, and caft them far eaft into the South Sea. But Mr. Dalrymple, to whofe re- fearches and furveys navigation is deeply indebted, by collating Dampier's map of New Guinea, with what fl^.etches are found in Herrera, and in the collecftion of voyages by de Bry, has evinced, that Dampier's Nev/ Britain and Solomon's iflands are the fame. This has fo far been verified by Cap- tain Carteret's difcovering a ftrait pafs through the middle of New Britain. But, a map publiflied by Linlchooten in 1695, puts the matter beyond all doubt, as in that map the iflands at the eafl ex- tremity of New Guinea, are abfclutely named Solomon's iflands.

It is to be regretted, that Dampier, who failed to Nev/ Britain in the Roebuck 1699, had not (ten Linfchooten's map, publifhed but four years be- fore. Such a guide might have induced him to put into harbours which he did not vifit, not knowing they exified : for the leait additional light to a dif- coverer may be productive of important confc- quences.

As Lopez Vaz mentions gold found there, and the Spaniards unwilling the Portuguefe fliould have any fhare in it, that circumf^ance might far-

* Hiikliiyr, vol. Ill, p. S02.

b 2 ther

vi I N t R O D U C T I O N:

ther induce the former (if they were indeed in- duced) to mifplace thofe iflands ; that thefe might not appear in the portion of the globe which the Pope had afhgned them -, the other half having been given to the Portuguefe by virtue of the famous meridian * of partition his Holinefs drew on the occafion. Lopez Vaz aflerts, that the Spa- niards carried back gold from Solomon's iflands to New Spain.

Schouten f and le Maire, in 1616, after leaving an ifland they called St. John, and the Green iflands, came to the coaft of New Guinea, and fent their fhallop in fliore to found. She was at- tacked by feveral canoes, whence they threw (tones at the boat with flings. Next day, the 26th of June, the fhip was attacked, the enemy throwing ftones and darts. This they were obliged to refent. They killed ten of the aflailants, took three more, and four canoes. The canoes thev defl:roved, and ranfomed two of the three prifoners for a hog and a bunch of plantains. Next day, they got another hog for fome nails and trinkets. On the 28th, a handfome large canoe came on board, with twent}'- one perfons, who admired the fliip much, and

* Some fay, the fiifl: meridian is drawn tlirough Fayal ; bu:; the following accompanies de Bry's maps.

Quicquid fpatii intra duos illos meridianos, fignatcs terra: Americse, eft navigationibus detetlum, aut detegeiur in pofte- rum, Caftilienfibus affignatum eft, Df, Bry.

In the above map, one meridian goes through the banks oL Newfoundland -, the other through Java.

t Harrls'-s CoUeQlcn, \'cl. I. p. 60.

broughr

INTRODUCTION. vil

brought betel nut and lime.* Thefe called them- ielves Papuas, and did not offer to exchange the third prifoner ; upon which they put him afhore.

Continuing their courfe weftward, on the 7th of July, they paiTed an ifland called Vulcan's ; no doubt, one of the burning iflands in the map. On the 13th, they anchored within half a league of the main land, in 2° 54' S. latitude ; and, finding the country abound in coco nuts, fent the boat, well provided for an attack, with orders to Imd and get fome. But fuch was the reception, from the arrows of the inhabitants, that fixteen being wounded, the invaders were forced, notwithftanding their muf- kets, to retire.

On the 1 6th, they anchored between two iflands, landed, burnt fome houfes, and brought off as •many coco nuts as dealt three a man.

In failing along the coaft,they faw a very plea- fant ifland, named in the map, Horn ifland. The crew changing its name, called it Schouten's if- land, in compliment to their commander. As the fouth coaft of it is in Dampier's chart, left indefi- nite by a dotted line, I have fome reafon to think, the promontory of Dory may be the fame land, but not fufficient evidence to afcertain it.

Abel Tafman, in 1642, after failing round New Holland, and fo difcovering it to be an ifland, re- lumed by New Britain and New Guinea. He then

* Ufed by nioft Eall Indians with the arcka nut and betel Jeaf.

pafled

viii INTRODUCTION.

pafled a burning mountain, in the latitude of 5° 04' S. and afterwards got refrefhments from the ifland Jama, which lies a little to the eaftof Moa, The natives brought him 6000 coco nuts, and ico bags of plantains. The failors, in return, making knives of iron hoops, bartered thefe awkward in- ftruments for thofe refrefhments. Tafman had no quarrel with the inhabitants. They feemed, at Moa and Arimoa, to be afraid of him ; for, one of his failors having been accidentally wounded, by an arrow from the bow of one of the natives, the man was delivered up.

Captain Dampier, in the voyage of the Roe- buck, already mentioned, being on the weft coait of Nev/ Guinea, bought, near an ifland, called by the natives Sabuda, three or four nutmegs in the iliell, which did not fesm to be long gathered. This agrees with what I found at Dory. The drefs of the people alfo near Pulo Sabuda, is exactly that worn at Dory ; the men wearing the rind of the palm-tree, and the women calicoes.

Dampier touched no where on the coaft of New Guinea, but failed near feveral iflands clofe by New Britain, Wifhart's Ifland, Matthias, and Squal- ly Ifland; alfo Slinger's Ifland, whence he was in- fulted with vollies of ftones. Had he anchored behind any of thefe iflands, which, I apprehend, he might have done ; or, if he had not fired fmall and great fhot at the inhabitants of the large bay, where he did anchor, to/care them., as he owns, he might have doubtlefs had intercourfe with them, and not been reduced to the hoftility of taking, by

violence,

INTRODUCTION. ix

violence, fome of their hogs. Thus the whole dif- coveiy, from impatience or fear, was fruftrated. ■Ey his account of the appearance of the country, it is well inhabited and cultivated j much better than the places I vifited farther weft.

Captain William Funnel, 1705,* oblerved feve- ral iflands in o'' 42' N. latitude, near the coaft of Nev/ Guinea, inhabited ; but by a feemingly hof- tile people : which prevented all intercourfe with them. He faw the coaft only at a diftance ; and fays, it appeared to him mountainous, black, and rocky. Being afterwards in diftrefs for provifions, and unacquainted in thofe feas, he was, by the mafic of friendfhip, decoyed to Amboyna, v/here he fuf~ fered very rough ufage from the Dutch.

Commodore Roggewein j- coafted the north part of New Guinea, in 1722, and touched at the if- lands Moa and Arimoa; whence came to him with provifions 200 canoes, with whom he dealt. He then paffed by what he clufters in the name of the Thoufand Iflands ; where, he fiys, the inhabitants had their heads covered with thick curled v/ool, and were called Papuas. Some of them had a bit of ftick piercing the griftle of the nofe, as I re - marked in a flave who was brought to Dory, \o. be fold.

Roggewein's people landing on the ifland Moa, began to fell the coco nut trees ; and the Indians, who lay in ambufli, defervedly let fly at them a fliower of arrows. Injuftice is always imprudence,

* Harris's Colleftion. f Ibid.

and

INTRODUCTION.

and ingratitude is the woril fpecies of injuftice. The natives had, juft before this invafion of their property, brought the llrangers all manner of re- frefhments. The latter, however, perceiving Moa thinly inhabited, had fallen upon this fcheme of feizing provifions ; thinking, to carry off, at once, {lock fufficient for the profecution of their voyage. To this conduft they v/ere animated by the confi- deration, that the arrows of the natives did them little or no hurt ; whereas, the difcharge of their fmall arms laid abundance of their entertainers on the ground.

The next I can find, was Captain Carteret, who difcovered, as has been faid, New Britain to be di- vided into two parts at leall ; by a ftrait, v/hich he names St. George's Channel. He found in Eng- lifii Cove, near Cape St. George, the nutmeg tree ; but the fruit not ripe. He had only a diftant in- tercourfe with the inhabitants. Mr. Bougainville, v/ho pafiTed that ftrait foon after found them trea- therous.

Captain Cool: failed much about the fame time to the fouth of New Guinea, through the Endeavour llrait J v/here, by his account, the land is low. He had no friendly intcrcourfe with the inhabitants.

To this hour, I do not find, that any European has had friendly intercourfe with New Britain, which is well inhabited : and fince Roggewein, no- body we knov/ of, has had any with New Guinea. Monfieur Sonerrat, in his Foyage a la NoiivfUe Gm- ■iiie, lately publilTied, went no farther eaft than the

illand

INTRODUCTION. xi

iiland Gibby,* near Patany Hook, on Gilolo. Gib- by is often mentioned in the following fheets. What little connexion I had with the Papuas in New Guinea, will alfo there appear.

The account of the cinnamon tree is taken from the A6la Phyfico-Medica Academias Caefares, vol. I.

Since my own enquiries and conjedtures about the people called Badjoos, mentioned chap, xviii. I have met witli a curious account of them in Valen- tine. He fays, the Oran Badjoos or Wadjoos, are iifhermen ; and that Mr. Padderburg at Manado on Celebes, had them under his charge in 1675.

Mr. Padderburg imagines the Badjoos have been driven from Macallar, Java, Bantam, and Japara. They have about 700 boats, in which they live moftly on fiih. He adds, they have a king, to whom they pay homage. They have a ftrange fqueal in their voice, with a very wild appearance ; and, were it not for the freedom which their boats atford them of going fiom place to place, they would not remain in any particular quarter, as they have a diflike to the fhore.

Padderburg is of opinion, they mull have come either from China or Japan, where multitudes live in boats ; and their departure from that country muft have been occafioned, he thinks, by the inroads of

* The Author does not (ay, whither he went ; but this I learned from a perfon who dcferied liim, and whom I law at pooloo, in 1773.

the

ai

INTRODUCTION.

the Tartars, who conquered China, and expelled the Badjoos, who may then have found their way amonglt thefe iflands. Thofe about Manado, Ma- caiTar, Borneo, and the Philippines, are a medley of different nations ; fuch as Chinefe with long plaited hair, Javans with bare throats, plucked beards and whilkers, and MacaiTars with black fhining teeth.

The religion is chiefly Chinefe or Mahometan. They have in different parts many veffels ; and, what is remarkable, their women are capable of managing thofe veffels even in heavy feas. Thefe people are very ufeful to the Dutch Eaft India Company, in carrying intelligence fpeedily from place to place, and giving information of what- ever happens.

CON-

CONTENTS.

BOOK I.

CHAPTER I.

Intention of the Voyage — Sailing orders — Reafonsfor undertaking it in a fmall vejfel — Defcription of the 1'artar Galley — and lijl of the Crew, Page i

CHAP. II.

Departure from Balamhangan — Touched at the ijlands of Cagayan Scoloo^ and Pangatarran — Arrived at Sooloo^ ivhere ive found a Molucca prow haded with Nutmegs — 'Touched at the IJland Tonkyl — Left it unexpectedly — Saw the IJland Sangir— Pajfed Karakita, Palla and Siao — Pajfed the Ijlands Tern.ite and Tidore — Arrived at Malaleo Harbour^ in the Straits ofLatalatta — Sailed thence^ and arrived at Biffory Harbour — Tuan Hadjee vijtts the Sultan of Batchian^ - i^

CHAP. III.

Account of the IJland of Gihlo^ from the Information of Ijhmael Tuan Hadjee and others — Of the Sago

Tree^

xiv CONTENT S.

Tree^ and the Method of Baking the Sago Bread, with a Comparifon between the SagOy and Bread Fruit 'Trees, " - S3

CHAP. IV.

"Tuan Hadjee returns on Board with a Meffenger from the Sultan of Batchian — Sailed from Bijfory Har- bour— Had an accidental Interview with the Sul- tan of Batchian, on the JJland Bally — Sailed thence for Tomoguy — But into Selang harbour — Defcrip- tion of it — Sailed thence, and put into a Harbour on the Ifland Gag — Defcription of it — Sailed thence, and arrived at Tomoguy, where we narrow- ly efcaped Shipwreck — Hauled the Vejfel afhore t-o repair, .- .- S'^

CHAP. V.

Sent a Boat to the Ifland Salwatty, to purchafe Sago Bread — IVas vifited by the Synagees of the Coun- try— Had my Houfe robbed — A Corocoro arrives from Batchian with Tuan Bobo on board, and another Officer, who bring a Letter from the Sultan to Tuan Hadjee — Farther TranfaBions there — Prepare to depart — Account of the Inhabitants, 6^

CHAP. VI.

The Batchian Officers refufe to proceed to New Gui- nea— Sail without them, but immediately put back — Converfation with Tuan Hadjee on the Subje5l ;, who agrees to go to the Iflands off the Coafi of New Guinea, but not to the Main Land — Account of ihe Wefi Coafl of PFaygiou, and of the Straits of

Batang

CONTENTS. XV

Batang Pally — Sailed for the JJlands of Tew I — Faffed Ruib and Pub Een — Arrived at Offak Harbour, en the North Coaji ofWaygiou, - 74

CHAP. VII.

Defcription of the North Coafl ofWaygiou, and of the Harbour of Offak — Paffed Manouaran — Arrived at the IJlands of Yowl — Account of them— Sailed for the Iflands of Fan--- A Gahy in which we were feparated from the two Corocoros— Obliged to bear away--- Arrived at Dory Harbour on the Coafl cf New Guinea- -Some Account of the Fapiias there — Directions to get into the Harbcur—Conj enures about Schouten^s Ijland, 83

c H A F. VI I r.

Arrival of the Banguey Corocoro--Fate of the Bor^ neo— Arrival of a Corocoro from 'Tidore—Moluccn Method of Ft fhing— Arrival of a Boat from an If and called My fory ---Harbour of Manfinghani '--Apprehenfions of the Inhabitants of Offy Pillage •—Farther Account of the Papuas-StriBnefs of the Dutch— -Search for the Nutmeg Tree^ to no Pur- pofe i find it at Icfi^ on the IJland cf Manafzvary ---Account of the Haraforas—Give up to the Peo- ple of Dory the Debt they have contracted— Account of Dory— Account of the Coafl of New Guinea^ Eafl of Dory Harbour, and of the Iflands near the Coafl— Alfo of the Places on the Coafl, JVefi cf Dory Harbour, - " 105

CHAP.

XVI

CONTENTS,

CHAP. IX.

Departure from Dory Harbour—Put into Rawak Harbour for Provifions—Defcription of it-'- An- chor at Manouaran IJland — Put into Piapis Har^ hour — Defcription of it— Leave it, and row to windward, intending to anchor at Pulo Een-- Find it every where rocky and fteep— Bear away, in order to go to the fouthward of Gilolo-—Pafs between the Ifland of Gag and Gibby-—Pafs be- tween the IJlands of Bo and Popo'-Defcripticn of thenii - - 122

C H A P. X.

Departure from Bo — Contrary JVinds--- Anchor at an Ifland near Liliola, and net far from Pulo Pifang ; but can get no frefh Water— -Bear away for the Kanary Iflands—Find them uninhabited- Pro ceed to the Ifland Myfcl— Arrive in Ef- be Harbour — I'ranfa5Iions there—Valentine'' s Ac- count of the Birds of Par adife-- Account of Cloves growing on Ceram and Quhy—Striol IVatch of the Dutch near Amboyna-— Arrival of a Cor ccoro from Tidore, belonging to the Sultan- --fVe learn the Dutch have fent after us to Gibby— Account of the Rajah of Sakuatty - Defcription of the Ifland Ceram, and fome Places on the fVefi Coajl of New Guinea, from old Voyages, - 134

CHAP. xr.

Departure frotn Ef-be Harbour---Stcpt at the Ka- nary Iflands ■ - - Account of Round Harbour- - - Search • ed for Nutmegs-- Leave the Kanary Iflands-— Pafs between the Ijlands Bo and Popo—Pafs Gib-

h

CONTENTS. xvii

hy-.-Tnan Bujfora goes off in the Night, with Tuan Hadjee's Corocoro-- Anchored near the IJlands Syang and Eye, atid got frejh JVater- -Departure thence--Saw the IJland Gilolo--Saw the IJland Morty—Saw the IJland of Kabruang, Salibabo, and *Tulour— Arrive in heron Harbour on Salibabo — 'Tranfa^ions there, - - 160

CHAP. XII.

Departure from Leron—Piifjed by feveral fmall IJlands — Saw the IJlands Belk and Serangani — Faffed the Harbour of Batulakki on Magindano, Alfo the great Bay of Sugud Boy an — St opt at a Jandy IJland — Got Sight of the Ifland of Bunwoot— Faffed Timoko Hill, and entered the River of Ma- gindano — Remarks on the Monfoons in the Eajlern Parts cf India, in low Latitudes, - 172

BOOK 11.

CHAPTER I.

Of the IJland Magindano — Account of the Rivers Pelangy, Mdampy, and Tamantakka—I'own of Selangan — Goto Intang, - 1 85

CHAP. II.

Geographical Sketches of Places on the Banks of the Rivers Pelangy and Tamantakka, by Tuan Faky- molano — Defcription of the Saltpetre Cave, Rajah of Boy an, - • 197

CHAP.

xviii CONTENTS.

CHAP. III.

Defcription of the Coaft of Magindano, fVeJl of the Bar of the River Pelangy— Harbour of Kamala- dan — Farther Defcription of the Coafi, - 202

CHAP. IV.

'The Hifiory of MagindanOy 214

C H A P. V.

Arrival at_ Ccto Intang — Reception by Rajah Moo- do — Plfit the Sultan — Mifunderfianding with Tu- an Hadjee^ whofe People I dif charge — Set about deckings and otherwife repairing the Vejfel — Vifit the IJland Ebus—JVrite to the Sultan of S00I00-- Invited to flip "i^ith Rajah Mocdo— Devotion of the Crew of a Mangaio Prow -Suit an of Sooloo's An/wer-'-Tuan Hadjee quits Mindano abruptly — Method of making Salt—Vifit the IJland Bun- "jDootj ' - 219

CHAP. VI.

Account of Subudan JVatari:ar,ia—-Uis Si chiefs and Death— Arrival cf a Spanifb Envoy from Sem- hoangan— Particular Account of a Mangaio Prow —Datoo Utu parts with his Wife Fatima-- Rajah Moodo vifus the Suit an- -Defcription of his Palace-" interview with Datoo Topang^ i^G

CHAP. VII,

Celebration of a Fefiival at the Sultan's Palace — En- tertainr^rerJ — Potely Pyak vifits the Sultana — Cer- tain

CONTENTS. XIX

tnin Salutations — Dances — ^he Sultana returns the Vifit-.—The SpaniJJj Envoy affronts Rajah Moo- do^ who forgives him. - - 251

CHAP. Vllf.

The I/land Bunwoot is granted to the Englijh — Tranf- a^lions there ; and Defer iption of it — Sail for Ttibuan — Mr. Baxter fets out to vifit the Gold Mine at Marra ; but immediately returns ^ 263

CHAP. IX.

Defcription of the Coajl of Magindano South of the Bar of the Pelangy to Tuhuan River — Account of Mr. Baxters Journey to Marra — Leno Harbour — Farther Defcription of the Coajl round Cape St. Augujiine — Haraforas., - 276

CHAP. X.

Of the Great Lano or Lake — Account of the Illano Sultans and Rajahs who live on its Banks — Certain Laws of the Mindanoers — Form of Government — Taxes laid on the Haraforas — Their Drefsy 287

CHAP. XI.

Sent the Galley to Bmiwoot to be repaired — Gale at N. IV. — Account of Noe's Portion^ who is married to Datoo Utu — Particular Account of the Mar- riage of one of Rajah Moodo's Daughters y 299

CHAP. XU.

Ajk Leave to depart from Magindano — Depart pri- vately— CharaBer of Rajah Moodo — His Genero-

c fity

XX CONTENTS.

fity — Curious about Religion — Variety of Snakes-^ Farther Account of the Mmdanoers — Their mo- deration in eating and drinking— General Character of the Mindanoers and Illanos — Journal of a Man- gaio Proir — 'Their Song — Valentine's Account of MagindanOy - - 305

CHAP. XIII.

Account of the IJhnds Sangir — Tiilour, or Tanna-

■ Lahu— -Salihabo — Kahruang — Nanufan — Karakita

— Pall a — Tagulandii — Banka, and Tellufyang^from

the Inforinuion of Datoo JVoodine^ 329

CHAP. XIV.

Of the Ifland Sooloo — Claims of the Spaniards to any Sovereignty over that ijland refuted — Climate — Fruits — Government — Articles from China carried thither^ and Returns — Dijfpation of the Datoos — Pearl Fijhing Harbours — Cruelty to Slaves — Fray between the Sooloos and the Englijh Buggeffes — General Character of the Sooloos — Many Inflames of their Treachery^ 239

CHAP. XV.

An Account of the Cinnamon Tree in Ceylon, and its feveral Sorts, communicated by the chief Infpeftor of the Cinjifinion Trade, and Manufacturer in that Ijland, to Albertus Seba, a noted Druggiji in Am- flerdam. Tranfatcd by the late Dr. Scheucher, FR.S. , 359

CHAP,

CONTENTS. XX!

CHAP. XVI.

Sail for Kamaladan Harbour — Seefome Sooloo Prows — Meet with I'lian Hadjee in the Banguey Corocoro — Pafs the IJland Ltitangan — Harbour of Boobooan — Obliged to anchor on the Coajl of Sooloo — Pafs with- in Liber an Ifland, on the Coafl of Borneo — Direc- tions for that Pajfage — Pafs Balambangan — Arrive in Pelampan Harbour^ behind Pulo Gay a — Meet fome Englijh Feffels — Proceed to Abiay in ^efi of the Mindano Officers ^ by whom I write to Rajah Moodo — Gale at N. E. — Haul the Feffel afhore — Depart thenccy and arrive at the Englijb Fa6lory at Borneo^ 371

CHAP. XVII.

Of the North Part of Borneo — Its Climate — Rivers — Harbours — ProduB — People called Idaan — 1'heir Superflition — Farther Account of Places — Advan- tage of trading from Indofian hither — Account of the Badjoos and People of'Tedong^ ^'^g

CHAP. XVIII.

DireBions for failing down the N. W. Coafl of Borneo , from Pirate'' s Point to the River — Defcription of the 'Town — Return thence to Fort Marlbo- borough, - - 3P9

A VOYAGE

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BBMBBMBB

VOYAGE

T O

NEW GUIfsTEA.

BOOK i.

CHAPTER I.

Intention of the Voyage — Sailing Orders — Reafons for- undertaking it in a f mall Feffel — Defcription of the Tartar Galley — and lift of the Crew.

X H E intention of the voyage I am about to relate, was to forward what the Honourable Eaft India Company had recommended by the fhip Britannia, that went from England, to fettle Ba- lambangan, * an ifland fituatcd near the north promontory of Borneo. The following is an ex- trad from their general letter, dated June the i2th 1771, to the Chief and Council of that place.

* See Dalrymple's plan for extending tlie commerce of the Fad India Company, 1769.

fj ^' Having

2-

A VOYAGE

" Having good authority from the experience " and inquiries of Mr. Dalrymple, to be afliired " that cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs, pepper, and " clove bark, may with proper management be " eafily introduced into Balambangan, as fome of " thofe articles are produced in the Sooloo diftrids, " and others in the adjacent iflands, as the inclofed " paper of inquiry, mentioned in a preceding pa- *' ragraph, will (how : the acquifition and cuhiva- " tion of thofe valuable articles, muft be fpecially " recommended to the moft diligent attention of *' the Chief and Council, as an objedt of the higheft " importance, with promifes of a very favourable " notice on our part, on its being made apparent *' to us, that their endeavours for that purpofe " have been effeftually and advamageouily exe- " cuted. Thefe articles, if obtained, we particu- " larly direft, ftiall be made part of our confign- " ment to the China Council, until we fee occafion " to fignify our further pleafure therein."

About the latter end of Auguft 1774, Ambaf- fadors came from the heir apparent of the Sultan of Mindanao, to Balambangan, in whofe trairt was an inhabitant of the Molucca's, called Ifhmael Tuan Hadjee, who having been long employed there by the Dutch, had gained an accurate know- ledge of the Molucca iflands ^ and having alfb been to the eaftv/ard of them, beyond Pitt's Straits, as far as the coaft of New Guinea, called Papua, had fcen, and confequenlly reported that nutmegs grev/ there.

Mr.

1:^0 NEW GUliS[EA.

Mr. Herbert, the chief, had frequent confer- ences with this man ; and, defirous to profit from his intelligence, in the fcheme which he had in view, of forwarding the honourable court's in- jundions by the Britannia, as above related, to endeavour to obtain fpices from parts which had no connexion with the Dutch fettlements, he was pleafed to confalt me on the occafion. As I had, from other accounts, found that there was great probability in the relation of Tuan Hadjee, I of- fered to go, accompanied by him, on a voyage to New Guinea, if Mr. Herbert thought proper, in order to afcertain the truth of his alTertion, and propofed to attempt it in a fmali country embark- ation.— This was approved by Mr. Herbert and his Council, and they left the management of it entirely to my diredion.

Inftru6li(ms from the Chief and Council of Balamban- gan, to Captain Thomas Forreft*

Si r. The knowledge you have acquired from expe- rience of all the departments of marine bufinefs in general, to which you was trained from your earlieft years, together with a competent fhare of commercial tranfaftions in this quarter of the world, were fufficient inducements for the chief to accept of your offer to attend him on the expedition to Ealambangan. From the fmall number of fer- vants, moft of whom were unexperienced, he knew there would be fufficient field to difplay your talents, abftradled from the official bufinefs Bz of

4

A VOYAGE

of thofe brought up in the regular line of the fervice.

He perfedly knew your attachment and turn for difcovery ; and though nothing has been un- dertaken hitherto in the purfuit thereof, we would not have you imagine tbat we have thought light- ly of fuch matters ; or, that the chief has taken in bad part the feveral anecdotes and remarks you have at various times furnifhed him with.

We have jull received a copy of a paragraph of a letter from Bombay, wrote by the Honour- able Court to that Prefidency, which feems to im- ply very ftrongly, that it is their intention, to keep affairs in this quarter in as circumfcribed and narrow limits as poflible. A favourable opportu- nity however offering, without incurring heavy ex- pences, we are unwilling to let it flip ; as it is an. ©bje<ft of the firfl confequence, and may, if ac- eomplifhed, turn out extremely beneficial, not only to our honourable employers in particular, but alfo to the Britifh nation in general.

You mufl be fenfible, as we are, how impor- tant the monopoly of fpices is to the Dutch com- pany, and the States of Holland ; and equally fo, how incompatible it is, as well with the dignity of our company, as their advantage, to carry on a trade in thefe articles furreptitioufly obtained, a& they annually are^ from the Dutch territories, and tranfported to Bencoolen, Rhio, and other placejr in the Straits of Malacca. The Molucca's being generally underliood in Europe to be folely fub-

jedt

TO NEW GUINEA.

jedl to the Dutch, joined to the invariable com- mands of our fuperiors, not to interfere where any other European nation is engaged, are motives fufficient for us to rgedt the application that has been made, or any other that we may receive hereafter, which we may efteem to have the leaft tendency towards creating a controverfy between the two companies.

We have thought it neceffary to premife thus much, that our intentions, and our conduct may appear as clear to you, as they will to the world, fhould the public be led ever to inveftigate the one or the other.

From the many converfatlons we have had here with Tuan Hadjee Cutchil, we are confirmed in opinion that cloves and nutmegs are produced in many places which the Dutch are, or afFedt to be, ftrangers to ; where the inhabitants are not fubjedt to any prince or potentate in alliance with, or tri- butary to them ; and on iflands, even where there are no people. As he has very readily confented to embark with you in a fmall country veflfel (a Sooloo Prow) and his accounts and reprefentati- ons give us a latitude to hope for fome favourable difcoveries ; we think we Ihould not deferve • the appellation of faithful fervants, if we delayed our refearches into an objedt of the firil magnitude, when it can be profecuted with no heavy charge, and wears the profpedt of terminating to the greateft national good.

It would be abfurd to lay reftrictions, or to pre- tend to impofe rules in a biifinefs of this nature.

It

A VOYAGE

It is an undertaking tlrat requires prudence, difcre- tion, and perfeverance ; therefore, we have thought it beft to leave it to yourfelf.

Under this cover come Tome information and remarivs, to v/hich you are no ftranger ; likewife fome extrads from Mr. Dalrymple's Memoirs, which we recommend to your perufal.

If the objefl in expectation fails of the wifhed^ for fuccefs, yet your voyage may have a very good efFeft towards the improvement of navigation. You muft therefore be as accurate as poffible, in laying down all fhoals, &c. as well as explicit in your remarks and oblervations. Charts and draw- ings thereof muft be taken, minutely marking every thing that may conduce to the above pur- pofe. We with you a good voyage, and remain, Your affectionate friends,

and humble fervants, B A L A M 3 A X G A ^^ JOHN HERBERT,

iithoacber, 1774. EDWARD COLES,

THOMAS PALMER.

The Dutch feem to claim a right to all the Mo- lucca iflands, more from the forbearance of other European nations, than from any juft title. I am not certain whether the iflands of Waygiou, Myfol, Eatanta and Salwattay, may not alfo be claimed by them ; but I refolved, from Tuan Hadjec's report, and what I had learned of others, to go beyond thofe iflands, as far as the coaft of New Guinea, where furely the Dutch can have no exclufive prctenfions.

Senfible

TO NEW GUINEA.

Senfible of the jealoufy and watchfulncfs of the Dutch in the Molucca iflands, near which it was Tieceflary for me to pafs on my way to New Gui- nea, no lefs than of the danger of navigating in narrow feas, in a vefTel that drew much water, I preferred a fmall one of ten tons burden.

In a large veflel we muft have been cautious of coming near land. The crew I had (Malays chiefly) make bad failors in fquare rigged veuels -, and, having never been accuftomed to lie in an open road, or be in a harbour, without the in- dulgence of going on ftiore, they would not have had patience to remain on board, which €ven in a Hoop of thirty tons, would have been neceflary : and, in a veflel no larger than thirty tons, with fuch a crew, I muft have fre- quently run the rifl^ of being wrecked, had I made free with the fhore. This I was enabled to do boldly, in a boat of fmall burden, that rowed, and drew little water ; and, when fhe touched the ground, which often happened, part of the crew, by jumping overboard, could pufh her off again ; and, when in harbour, every body had free accefe to the fhore.

In a large veflel, I muft have carried with me a ftock of provifions, which the fettlement we fitted out from, could not well aftbrd i befides, when at places that afforded provifions, in a veflel of any fize at anchor, I muft have fent my boat ;jflbore, which would be liable to infult. I have known many fuch things befall fhips boats in Ma- lay countries, where defigning people entice the

crew

A VOYAGE

crew or commanding officers to be off their guard, by a treacherous fhew of civility. Commodore Watlbn, in the Revenge, loft his boat going through fomeftraits, bytheifland Salwattay. Many voyages have failed, many trading country vef- fels have been cut off, and fome wrecked, frorn imexped\ed accidents of this kind.

The veflel I had, and which fhall be hereafter defcribed, was perfedly fuited, in her conftruc- tion and manner of working, to the crew, who were moftly Malays, or natives of thofe iflands that lie eaft of Atcheen Head : feveral were Bi- fayans, that is, natives of the Philippines, and were chriftians ; fome v/ere Magindano and Mo- lucca Mahometans, vailals and flaves to Tuan Hadjee ; two were from Bencoolen and Pulo Nays, and three were Indoftan failors (lafcars).

Fearing, that, if I carried many Europeans

with me, quarrels might arife between them and

the Malays, who cannot (unlefs indeed properly

trained) be fuppofed fubjedt to difcipline, ac^-

cording to our ideas of it •, I therefore engaged

only two white men to go with me, who were

plain good feamen, David Baxter, mate, and

Laurence Lound, gunner. They knew not a

word of the Malay tongue, at leaft for many

months after they embarked ; confequently, could

not well quarrel with their Mahometan (hip-

jnates. However, they foon learnt to fpeak

Malays, and at the fame time they learnt how

to behave towards them, that is, never to hurry

pr abufe them. To enfure fobriety, I carried

with

TO NEW GUINEA.

with me very little wine, or fti'ong liquor ; my Malay crew never required any, and my two Europeans foon reconciled themfelves to tea and coffee.

I had one perfon of rank, education, and good behaviour with me, Tuan Hadjee. He had feveral of his own country with him, his flaves and vaflals, for whom he drew pay ; and who often took liberties, againft which I found it imprudent to remonftrate. This perfon had made a pilgrimage to Mecca. He was a rela- tion of the Sultan of Eatchian, and was well rewarded before he came on board, by Mr. Herbert, who made him a captain of Buggef- fes, having befides great expcdtations. I knew I could depend on his fidelity, and that he would be of great fervice in the voyage, hav- ing formerly been at Dory harbour, on the coaft of New Guinea. Without fuch a perfon I fhould have been in danger from a Malay crew •, efpecially as I had property on board to bear the expence of the voyage, vidualling, &:c. I made my account from the beginning, that wherever I found people, I fhould there find pro- vifions ; and, I thank God, we were not difap- pointed.

The veffel, in which I made the voyage, was called the Tartar-Galley. She was a Sooloo boat, or prow, about ten tons burthen. Her keel was twenty-five feet long, and fhe had a kind of gallery built on each fide, from flem to ftern, projefting about thirty inches over each

gunnel.

lo A V O Y A G E

gunnel. Here fat the rowers, fometimes twenty in number. She overhung fo much forward and abaft, that flie was forty feet long. Her draft of water was generally three foot and a half. We had four fwivel guns, two blunderbufles, ten mufkets, and fix piftols, befide lances, bows and arrows.

She had for a maft an artillery triangle * (gin or tripod) made of three ftout bamboos, which could be ftruck with the greateft eafe by three men. On this was hoifted a large four cornered fail, called by the Malays, lyre tanjong (point- ed fail), becaufe the upper corner appears Iharp or pointed. I fixed to her a foremaft clofe for- ward, and a bowfprit ; and gave her a lateen, or three cornered forefail. I alfo gave her a lateen mizen j but, when it blew frefh, I took down the lyre tanjong from the tripod maft, as it was a very large fail, and put in its place a la- teen fail. The fails then refembled thofe of the galleys in the Mediterranean. One very great advantage attends the lyre tanjong, which is this ; that when the wind frefhens, it can, without lowering, be inftantly diminifhed or made fmal- ler, by eafing or flacking the fheet, and at the fame time winding up the fail, by two men turn- ins the crofs bar or winch that is fixed to the in-

'&

* A great improvement might be made in navigation by means of the tripod maft. It would be a very good fubfti- lute for a mizen maft to cruizers ; becaufe, when ftruck, they would appear at a diftance like brigs, and deceive an ene- my. Lafh two London wherries together, and give this double veflel the tripod maft and lyre tanjong, it will beat thq; faft failing boats, at leaft three to two.

ner

T O N E W G U I N E A. ir

ner end of the boom, and which fpreads the low- er part of the fail. By this means, the fail may- be entirely rolled up until the boom touches the yard ; the fail being always in this compa(ft man- ner, as feamen call it, taken in. In the fame manner, it may be fet again inftantly, or let out, by turning the winch back the other way ; or half fet, according to the weather. The galley fleered with two commoodies (rudders), a fort of broad paddle ; but one generally ferved.

She was covered almoft entirely with the leaves of a certain Palm tree, called Nipa, fuch as the natives cover houfes with on the fouth weft coaft of Sumatra, and in almoft all Malay countries j it being a light kind of thatch, which keeps off" funlhine and rain. One fmall part abaft was co- vered with boards ; and this made a little apart- ment, called, by the Malays, Koran.*

At Tomoguy, one of the Molucca iflands, I hauled her aftiore to clean her bottom ; and there I raifed her one ftreak or plank, about fifteen inches high, as I found her rather too low to proceed down the coaft of New Guinea, fhe be- ing apt to fhip water in bad weather. I alfo new roofed or thatched her there. — At Magindano, (as I had leifure) I decked her, and turned her into a fchooner.

* The reafon why the Malays, who are Mahometans, call it the Koran, is, that they feldom travel by fea without the Alcoran ; which they always depofit in the beft and fafeft place, from tha^ cuftom terming the cabin, Koran.

Lijl

12

A VOYAGE

Lift of the Crew of the Tartar Galley.

Captain Thomas Forrest, Commander.

David Baxter, Mate.

Laurence Lound, Gunner.

,,^,,. „ ^ \ PafTengcrtoSooloo.

William Hum, J Left at Sooloo.

5 Ifhmael Tuan Hadjee, Pilot.

Tuan Imum, ? Ifhmael Jerrybatoo, J Matthew,	Helmfmen Steward.
Taffier, lo Saban, 1	Serang.
Marudo,
Abdaraman,
Dya, Andrew, 15 George,	>• Seamen.
Mungary,
Diego, Jacob, Rum Johny, 20 Gibalu, Panjang, Strap,	1 Cook. * Boy.

♦ He died at Magindano— being the only perfon I loft during the voyage.

CHAP.

T 0 N E W G U I N E A. 15

CHAP. II.

Departure from Balambangan — Touched at the Iftands of Cagayan Sooloo, and Pangatarran^-' Arrived at SoohOy "where we found a Molucca Prow loaded

•with Nutmegs.^ Touched at the I/land Tonkyl

— Left it unexpectedly — Saw the I/land Sangir —

Paffed Karakita, Palla, and Siao Pajfed the

Iflands Ternate and Tidore — Arrived at Malaleo Haibour,inthe Straits of Latalatta — Sailed thence and arrived at Biffory Harbour — Tuan Hadjee vijits the Sultan of Batchian.

O

N IVednefday the 9th of November, in the morning I rowed out of the North-eaft harbour of Balambangan with the aforementioned crew ; fa- luting the fettlement with five guns, and having three returned. About noon we had rain and calms ; then light foutherly winds. Towards evening we anchored in four and a half fa- thom water, muddy ground, clofe to the Ifland of Eanguey ; the fhips at Balambangan being Hill in fight. Here we fent afhore our canoe, which brought fome water out of a fmall river on the ifland of Banguey. In the evening we weighed, and rowed on. We foon got a frefh breeze at fouth-weft, and about midnight anchored; but, finding the current fet to the eaftward, weighed again.

On Thurfday the loth, at funrife, v/c had calms and light breezes from tlie north-weft. We then

had

14 AVOYAGE

„'774' had paffed the iflands called the Salenfmeers, but

November. r _ o '

V— -v-^-^ juft law them. At feven we rowed with fourteerl oars, and continued fo moft part of the day, flack- ing at times when it was very hot. In the night we had a fquall from the north eaft, with thunder, lightning, and rain. The night was dark and gloomy ; but this, being common in low latitudes, little affedts thofe who are accuftomed to it, as it feldom does harm : and, had our veflel been tight overhead, we might have paffed the night toler- ably ; for during thefe tornado's, it is the cuftom of Malays to lie to at fea, as they are generally ac- companied with uncertain gufts of wind. This we did for feveral hours, dropping a wooden an- chor from the weather-bow, which kept the velTers head to the fea and made her lie eafy. But the rain beat through the Palm leaves with which the veflel was covered, fo violently, that we Europeans found it very uncomfortable : the crew did not much mind it.

Friday the i ith, at funrife, we faw the Ifland of Cagayan Sooloo, bearing eaft, diftant about eight leagues. It is of middling height, and covered with trees ; but not quite fo much as Malay Iflands generally are ; fome fpots upon it appearing from fea clear of wood, and cultivated. A frefli wind fpringing up from the fouth-weft, and increafing, we fixed the lateen mizen for a forcfail. At three P. M. I difcovered in the road, or harbour, a prow, with many people on board, and canoes going backwards and forwards to her from the fliore. At four, I anchored pretty near this veflel, and found her to be a Mangaio prow, or armed

veflll

T O N E W G U I N E A. 15

veflel that goes a cruifing, generally amongft the 1774- Philippine iflands, called Bifaya. She was not v— ILJll above four tons burthen, looked very fmart, having a gallery fore and aft for the rowers to fit on, as we had ; having alfo the tripod malt and lyre tanjong, and mounting four brafs fwivel guns called Ran- takers, carrying each a four-ounce ball. She be- longed to the Rajah of the ifland ; and I apprehend from the hurry they were in, when we firft appear- ed that they were a little afraid.

When we were at anchor, the weftermoft part of the ifland bore W. by S. two miles diftant, and the eaftermoft part of a reef, that lay off the faid well part of the ifland, bore S, by W. one mile dif- tant. This formed a good road, if not a harbour ; being fliut in from the eafl:ern fwell, by a reef of rocks : two fmall iflands bearing at the fame time, E. by S. three leagues diftant, called the Mambalu iflands, in Mr. Dalrymple's maps. Early in the m'orning of the 12th, I went on fliore, and waited on the Rajah, who fpoke good Malays. I enquired the defi;ination of his privateer ; he anfwered, Dio P/gy AlangaiOj de Nigri Bifaya : " She is going a *' cruife amongft the Philippines." I carried with me a tea-kettle, fome tea and fugar candy — and he drank tea with me, furnifliing tea-pot and cups. I told him tea was (Englip piinio dry) Englifli Beetle, alluding to the beetle leaf, which all Eaft Indians chew. He laughed, and faid it was very- good Ciry.

The Rajah who was very civil and facetious — a(kcd after Tuun Hadjee, who he had heard was

i6 AVOYAGE

No'vlmter. ^^ ^^°^^^- ^ told him, he would pay his refpeds to him that afternoon. I was accompanied by Tuan Imum, one of my helmfmen, a kind of a MulTelman prieft, and a great favourite with Tuani Hadjee, who deferred his vifit, as we did not choofc to be both out of the veffel together, for my two Europeans did not as yet know a word of Ma- lays.

The Rajah ordered a very good fowl to be drelTed in a curry, of which Tuan Imum and I partook, after walking about and bathing in a fine pool of frefli water.

I prefented him with a pocket compafs, two" pieces of courfe chintz, and a little tea and fugar candy, which Malays are generally fond of; and of which I had laid in a pretty good ftock at Ealambangan. In return, he gave me a goat, fome fowls, fruits, &c. and immediately after dinner, I returned on board.

About two in the afternoon, Tuan Hadjee, who was very well pleafed to hear of the civil treatment I had received from the Rajah, went on fhore. He returned at fix, with fowls, fruits, &c. which the Rajah had given him, in return for fome prefents he had made. During our fliort ftay here, I repaired, and made at leaft water tight^ the leaky roof of the velfel.

In the cool of the evening, I founded the har- bour, and found the moft water in it fix fathom, the leaft three, with three fathom on the bar at

half

T O N E W G U I N E A. 17

half flood. The tide rifes fix feet on the fprings, and a rifing and fetting moon makes high water. *rhe bar is coral rocks, about thirty yards in width, and ten yards acrofs, or over : within and without the bar is clean fand, free from rocks ; and it will admit with fafety, veffels drawing fifteen feet water:

Cagayan Sooloo is a pleafant looking ifland ; the foil is rich, and the vegetation is fo luxuriant, ihat I found every where the grafs called (Lallang) Couch Grafs, grown to the height, even of fix feet i the foil being black mold. The Rajah told me there was another harbour on the eaft coatt of the ifland ; which is about twenty miles round, lies in the latitude of 7° N. and longitude 1 1 6°, 45' and its diftance from Balambangan is 100 miles E. by S.

The ifland is dependant on Sooloo, the Rajah being a Datoo * there, and is much frequented by Mangaio Prows in general. Even the fmall Mangaio Prows, of the Oran Tedong (men of Tedong) a bafbarous piratical people, who live up certain rivers, on the north-eaft part of Borneo, ire admitted here, as the Rajah is, I fuppofe, too weak to dare to refufe them. Thefe Oran Tedong, are not Mahometans : this circumftance, and their country being under the dominion of Sooloo, may be the reafon why the Sooloos will not permit them to come into any of their ports on that ifland, as they difcountenance their piracies. Something more of the Oran Tedong will be faid hereafter.

* Dutoo, fignlfies baror — -noblenian.

G On

1^ AVOYAGE

^»774- On Sunday the 13th, we rowed out of Cagayaii

harbour, early in the morning, and found a ftrong current fet to the fouthward. At fun-fet, Cagayan bore north, five leagues dirtant, we having been retarded by calms. A frefh breeze fpringing up foon after from the N. N. W. fteered E, by N. fome iflands that lye to the northward of Cagayan being in fight ; and the Mambalu iflands to the fouthward bearing S. S. W. feven leagues. Our latitude, obferved at noon, was 6° 40' N.

On the 14th, at funrife, we had a fine breeze from the northward : at ten it fhifted to the weft- ward, and blew frefh; hoif^ed our mizen for a forefail, and fet a lug main fail. At the fame time, our canoe broke loofe ; and, as it blew ve- ry frefh, we could not recover her. At noon, it being more moderate, we fet our proper fails. At 4 P. M. there being little wind, we rowed with all our oars, being eighteen in number ; and, at three in the morning, we had fbme fevere fqualls, followed by heavy rain. Our courfe to day was E. by N. It being cloudy, wc had no obfervation.

On the 1 5th, at three P. M. we faw the ifland of Pangatarran.* At funfet, we were within three leagues of it, and kept rowing and failing

* Pangatarran, a long flat ifland, has no frefli water ; nor is any good anchoring near, except in fome few places. Is abounds in Coco nuts, and a fruit called Guava. Tappool, Seaflee and Pangatarran, are the only iflands of the Sooloo Archipelago to which the Spaniards have prefcrved a title, by confent of the Sooloos. Tappool and Scaffee arc of middling height, well cultivated and inhabited.

all

TONEWGUINEA. 19

all night : we ftruck all our fails in a fqualL with- „'774-

'^ • ' November.

in a cable's length of the fhore, but had no found- ings. At midnight anchored, in two fathoms wa- ter, fandy ground, abreaft of an old ruined fort ; but faw no people.

On IVednefday the i6th, finding nobody here, I weighed and rowed more to the northward. I then faw fome people belonging to the ifland, and fome Sooloo people. From thofe I learnt, that there were two Molucca Prows at Sooloo, loaded with nutmegs and mace j and, at Tuan Hadjee's fuggelVion, I refolved to go thither, as it was not out of our way, to endeavour to perfuadc the Noquedahs (commanders) to carry their nutmegs to Balambangan. I therefore immediately got un- der way, rowed and failed towards Sooloo. At midnight could fee lights afhore, in the town of Bowang, which is the chief town of Sooloo. As Pangatarran abounds in Coco nuts, 1 laid in a good ftock.

On Thurfday the 17th, I anchored in Sooloo road, juft before funrife. I found riding here the Antelope, Captain Smith, a (hip belonging to the Honourable Company, and only one Molucca Prow, befide many fmall prows and veflels be- longing to the Sooloos. As I anchored clofe to the Molucca prow, the Noquedah came on board, and informed me, that the other prow, after dif- pofmg of her cargo, had failed ; he like wife told us, that he had fold, or at leaft bargained for his nutmegs with the Sultan : therefore he declined going to Balambangan. He was very glad to fee Tuan Hadjee.

C 2 As

201 AVOYAGE

1774- As I was anxious to fee this eaftern vefTel, I went

wI!!L!l' on board ; I found her about thirty tons burthen, high built, and fitted with the tripod maft, and lyre tanjong, I bought from one of the crew, about twenty pounds of very good mace for a red handkerchief: I alfo bought fome fago cakes. The people belonging to this prow were exceed- ing civil, and len-t me their canoe (fampan) to fetch water.

Captain Smith perceiving I was without a boat, very politely fent his to attend me ; in which, af- ter vifiting him, Tuan Hadjee and I went afhore, and paid our refpedts to Mr. Corbet, the Englifh refident, who received me with great civility, and entertained me at his houfe. I then went and paid my refpedts to the Suhan, whofe name was Ifraei : he was {on to the old Sultan Amiralmoomine, and had his education at Manilla, where his father and he had long been prifoners, and were relieved lafi war from their captivity, by the arms of the Eng.- lifh. Amiralmoomine being old, had given up the reins of government to his fon Ifrael.

After dining with Mr. Corbet, in company with captain Smith and his officers, I went and paid my refpedl& to Datoo Alamoodine, wl"io v/as in- tended to fucceed Sultan Ifrael, as he had no chil- dren. I alfo vifited the Datoos Almilbahar the ad- miral, and Almilbadar the general. I found the Sultan, and all thefe gentlemen, concluded I was going to Magindano * nor did I undeceive them.

* The En^lifli uied to call it Mindano, and I fhali often call u Co.

in

TONEWGUINEA. 21

In the cool of the evening, I had the pleafure of J774- feeing the Sultan's niece Potely (princefs) Diamelen, and the general's daughter Fatima, ride on horfe- back, accompanied by feveral Datoos and others. Their manner is, to ride backwards and forwards, the length of a long broad ftreet, upon fandy ground, forcing their horfes on a quick trot, and checking them when they attempt to gallop. The horfes accuftomed to this, trot very faft.

Thefe two ladies were remarkably handfome, and were reckoned fair ; which they certainly were by comparifon. They wore waiftcoats of fine muflin, clofe fitted to their bodies i their necks to the upper parts of the bread being bare. From the waift downwards, they wore a loofe robe, girt with an embroidered zone or belt about the middle, with a large clafp of gold, and a precious Hone. This loofe robe like a petticoat, came over their drawers, and reached to the mid- dle of the leg ; the drawers of fine muflin, reach- ing to the ancle. They rode acrofs with very (hort ftirrups, and wore their hair clubbed, atop, Chinefe fafliion. Before the exercife was over, Diamelen's hair fell lopfe, and hung in black (hining ringlets, moft gracefully down her back, as far as the fad- die. They often put fweet oils on their hair, which gives it a glofs. The ladies fat their horfes remark- ably well J and this is an exercife women of fa- fliion indulge all over the ifland. Their faddles have in the middle a vacancy, which muft make it eafy for the horfe, like thofe recommended for fxoopers by marflial Saxe in his Reveries,

Here

22 AVOYAGE

November. ^^^^ ^ 8*^^ cxccllent refrefliment ; oranges full .' — /--^ as good as thofe in China, and all kinds of

the beft tropical fruits —very good beef, fowls,

&c.

On Friday the 1 8th, we had fqually weather, the winds at S. W, At noon we parted from our grapnel, and let go another, by which we held fall. Captain Smith aflifted me in the evening very readily with his boat and people, to fweep for the loft grapnel, to no purpofe, the ground where it. happened to be dropt being rocky. I had from Mr. Corbet a ftout bamboo for a fore- maft, alfo two Englifh enfigns. I fhould have flayed here longer, at leaft until I had got a ca- noe i but, the road being expofed to the north weft wind and fwell, tho' ftieltered from all other winds, and this being the time of the ftiifting of the monfoon, I thought proper to be gone.

On Saturday the 1 9th, I failed from Sooloo road, with the wind at N. W. blowing frefh, and fteer- ed N. E. At noon we faw the two iflands of Duoblod ; the northermoft is the fmaller. At four in the morning we faw the ifland of Bafilan. It is an ifland belonging to Sooloo, and about the fame fize ; the weft end of it bore E. by N. diftant fix leagues. Here I found the ebb tide fet very ftrong to the eaftward, much ftronger than the flood tide fets to the weftward : this is the cafe du- ring the S. W. monfoon, and the current had not yet changed.

Sunday

TO NEW GUINEA. 23

Sunday the 20th. Next to Duoblod, in an eaft ^7:4-

• • -/i 1 • 1 1 1 1-1 November.

diredion, is an ifland with a large hummoc or hil- lock upon it ; it is called Tantaran in Mr. Dalrym- ple's map. As the weather threatened, I attempt- ed, but in vain, to get to it, the current and tide fetting ftrong to the eattward, betweeen it and two very fmall iflands called Dippool, which lie fouth of it, and are fhaped like fugar loaves ; the one much larger than the other. I therefore bore away for a low ifland, lying farther eaft. At eight A. M. I reached it, and found it furrounded with coral rocks, yet I came to amongft them, with a wooden anchor, in three fathom water, the weather looking very unfettled, and the wind blowing frefli at N. N. W.

On Monday the 21ft, about noon, I fpoke with a fmall filTiing boat, or prow, with only one Sooloo man in her ; who told us, that further on, was a harbour, into which we might go ; and informed me that the ifland was called Tonkyl. I according- ly weighed, but obferving that it was a dry har- bour, I did not chufe to go into it. However, I anchored in three fathom water, on a fmall fpot of fand, juft without the harbour. Here I bought fome very good fifh, exceeding cheap, of fome of the natives who were out in their boats. Not- withftanding I lay under the lee of the ifland, clofe to the fhore, yet I gave a reward to fome of the natives for bringing fire -wood on board, not chufing to truft my people on fhore to cut it, as I perceived many armed men, of whom I was

fufpicious i

24 AVOYAGE

Nolember. furplcious ; and who Calling out, endeavoured tq

V — ' perfuade me, but to no purpofe, to go into the

harbour.

The weather ftill having a very unfcttled afped, I was unwilling to put to fea, to continue our voyage, but thought of going over to the ifland Bafilan, which was then in fight, and where I was told by Tuan Hadjee's people, there was choice of good harbours ; — at the fame time, the fifher- man, of whom I had bought the fifh, offered to come early next morning, and condudt me to a very good harbour on that ifland : I accordingly engaged him.

About eleven at night the wind came from the eaftward, along fliore, and blew frefli. We got up our grapnel, but the veffel calling wrong, touched upon the rocks. As fhe forged on with- out any fail, I inllantly took out the piece of wood which fecured the fore bamboo of the tripod mart, near the ftem, and let the maft fall. Luckily it fell aflant againft the, mizen maft, which broke its fall and faved it. We then, with poles, fet the velfel's head round, got up the maft, and made fail to the S. E. with the wind at E. N. E. I was apprehenfive that had I been caft away upon this ifland, the Sooloos might at leaft have plundered us.

In the morning the weather was more moderate. We found one of the flooks of the grapnel ftraight- cned a little, probably by having caught hold of d rock. At noon we were in latitude 5° 30' N. having run forty-eight miles on a S. E. by E.

courfe

TO NEW GUINEA. 25

f:ourfe fince morning. The Tea was now fmoothei', j^J/j^^er and ran in a more even manner than it did, when i^ .y- ,< we left the land ; it being theri very irregular, and the vefTel making water.

On I'liefday the 2 2d, we had moderate weather, and ran eighty-two miles on an E. S. E. courfe : and at noon we were in the latitude of 5° 3' N.

To-day Tuan Hadjee told me, that it was high- ly imprudent to go to the coall of New Guinea, whither we were bound, being only one vefTd ; and that we ran the riik of being cut off by the Papuas. He faid nothing of this at Balamban- gan. We had there propofed to go to the north- ward of Morty (v/hich ifland lies near the north part of the ifland Gilolo or Halamahera, the largeft of the Moluccas) in the veflel we had ; and now for the firft time he ftarted objedlions. I confider- ed it imprudent to do any thing abfolutely oppofite to his opinion or advice, therefore agreed to go between the ifland Gilolo and Celebes, in order to purchafe, and fit up a Corocoro *, at fome con- venient

* A corocoro is a veflel generally fitted with out-rlggers, with a high arched ftem and ftern, like the point of a half moon. They are ufed by the inhabitants of the Molucca iflands chiefly, and the Dutch have fleets of them at Amboyna, which they employ as guarda coft:as. They have them from a very fmall fize, to above ten tons burden ; and on the crofs pieces which fupport the out-riggers, there are often put fore and aft planks, on which the people fit and paddle, befide thofe who fit in the veflel on each gunnel. In finooth water they can be paddled very fafl:, as many hands may be employed in different rank? or rows. They are flieered with two commoodies, (broad paddles) and not with a rudder. When they are high out of

the

26 A V O Y A G E

1774- venient place thereabouts, that wc might be two veflels in company. This pleafed him much. I found he had a ftrong inch nation to vifit Batchian, the Suhan of which was his near relation.

On IVednefday the 23d, we had moderate wea- ther, and wefterly winds ; fleered S. E. by E. fe- venty miles. At noon we were in the latitude of 4° 34', and one hundred and fifty miles eaft of the meridian of Tonkyl. This day we had many ripplings of currents, which I imputed to the mon- foon's changing.

On Thiirfd'.iy the 24th, we had fair weather ; fteered S. E. eighty miles : at noon our latitude was 3° s^ N.

On Friday the 25th, we had wefterly winds and fqually weather. Ran under a foul weather main- fail, and fteered as beft fuited the velTel's eafe, be- tween the fouth and eaft, as fhe laboured much, and fhipped water. Kept baling, as we had no pump, every half hour. Many of the rattan lafti- ings were alfo found broke. *

In the morning we faw the ifland of Sangir, ap- pearing large and high i the body of it, bearing about north-eaft, was covered with clouds. We

the water, they ufe oars ; but, on the out-riggers, they always ufe paddles. Frequent mention is made of corocoros in the hiflory of Auiboyna.

* The ends of the beams went through, or pierced the vefTel's fides ; the beams were tied to handles on the planks, which were nailed to the timbers.

fteered

TO NEW GUINEA.

fleered to the northward of a clufter of five iflands, which lie to the foiithward of Sangir ; the two principal are called Karakita and Palla, as 1 was informed by Abdaraman, one of Tuan Hadjee's people, who had been there. Each of thefe two iflands may be about five or fix miles round. They are about three miles afunder, bearing N. N. E. and S. S. W. of one another ; Karakita being to the northward, and are both cuhivated ; Palla, rather the largeft, has a table land upon it. In palTing Karakita, we faw a fmall canoe about two miles from us, which fhunned us, paddling away very faft. On the north-weft fide of Karakita there is a bay, perhaps a harbour. Abdaraman could not particularly inform me about it. Op- pofite to the mouth of the bay there appears a beau- tiful row of coco nut trees on the ridge of a hill, as in the view.

Abdaraman told me there was a harbour at Pulo Siao •, which ifland we faw bearing fouth from Karakita about ten leagues, and was partly wrap- ped in clouds, it being very high. To the wefl- ward of Karakita, and north-weft of Palla, are three iflands, one of them not above one mile round, which appeared like a gunner's coin or ■wedge. The other two are fomething larger. To the fouthward of Sangir, and near it, are alfo three fmall iflands.

A fmall rocky ifland, with a few coco nut trees upon it, and many rocks, like fugar loaves, around it, bore E. S. E. from Karakita four miles, which, from its fliape, we called the Rabbit. We palled

to

28 A V O Y A G E

1774. to the weftward of it within half a mile, the cur- ^!!!|li!l) rent fetting to the fouthward. Karakita lies in the latitude of 3° 16' N. and longitude 122° 20' E. In my run from Tonkyl to Karakita, it was im- polTible for me to be certain of my courfe and dif- tances, as I fteered fo many different courfes to keep the veflel eafy. I expeded to make Sangir fooner than I did. The currents at the beginning of the north-eaft monfoon are uncertain, and fome- times very l^rong here, as they alfo are in the China feas and Bay of Bengal at this feafon of the year. I had the greateft reafon to think I was fet to the weftward ; and have, from my remarks when I returned, chiefly, placed the ifland of Sangir z" 40' E. of the meridian of Tonkyl ; al- though, by my run, I made it to be much more.

On Saturday the 26th, we had moderate wea- ther, with calms towards midnight. We then rowed a good deal, cheering up the rowers with a difh of tea, which refrefhed them, and they were fond of it, having no idea of fpirituous li- quors; neither did any of them fmoak opium, which Malays often do, thereby rendering them- felves unfit for duty. In the morning the high land of Siao bore N. W. half N. and at noon we were in the latitude of 2° 1 6' N. To day, expedt to fee Myo and Tyfory, two fmall iflands near Ternate, as we fometimes rowed three knots ar> hour.

Early in the morning of Sunday the 27th, by the light of the moon we faw the ifland Myo,

which

T O N E W G U I N E a: 29

which is of middling height, Prefently after we faw the ifland Tyfory, juft open with its fouth end, bearing weft ; Ternate Hill bearing at the fame time fouth-eaft, diftant about ten leagues. Myo lies in latitude 1° 23' N. and longitude 122** 50' E. Tyfory is a flat ifland, not fo large as Myo, and lies about W. by S. from it, five or fix miles diftant.* There is faid to be a good road on the coaft of Myo, and that many wild goats are upon it. It was formerly inhabited, when the Spaniards had the Moluccas ; but the Dutch will not now permit any body to live there, left it fhould be convenient for the fmuggling of fpices. Tuan Hadjee told me he has been allured that fome few fpice trees grow upon it, which the Dutch know nothing of, being perfuaded they have long ago been rooted out.

On Mondiiy the 28th, we had moderate weather, and in the night v/e rowed a good deal. I found Tuan Hadjee in high fpirits, cheering up the rowers with a certain Tactic fong, to which a man beat time with two brafs timbrels. This fong was in the Mindano tongue, and is much ufed by Mangaio boats, not only to amufe and cheer up the mind, but to give vigour to their motions in rowing. This I encouraged, that we might foon get paft the Dutch fettlements of Ternate and Tidore. I alfo gave each man a red handkerchief for their encouragement. The current was much

* Myo and Tyfory, in former days, furnifhed four hundred men as militia to the Sultan of 'I'ciuate. At Myo there is a harbour ; and it produces cloves.

HjSTOIRE GlNERAtLE DE l'AsIE PAR D'AviTY, p. 904.

ia

30 AVOYAGE

'774; in our favour. To day we pafTed Ternatc and

November. -' ^

c— V — -' Tidore, and at four P. M. were abreaft of Mac- quian, having moderate weather, with northerly winds. At funfet we palTed Macquian, and failed within three miles of the weftermoil of the five Giaritchas, lying in latitude 00° 25' N. The Gia- ritchas are a clufter of five fmall iflands, lying about fix leagues S. S. W, of Macquian. They are of middling height, with many bare rocks, in- termixed with green fpots and trees. When the fouthermoft bears S. by E. about ten miles diftant, there appears a fmall rock to the weft ward.

Onl'uefday the 29th, having paffed the Giaritchas, we fteered fouth for the firaits of Latalatta. At ten at night we got into a little harbour, called Mala- leo, which is on the north-wefl: part of the ifland Tappa ; and off the faid north-weft part of Tappa, are three fmall ifles, or large rocks, about twenty-five feet high, with fome bufhes upon them. I was told that thofe rocks have fome caves in them which produce birds nefts.* I there- fore call them the Bird-Neil iflands, as none of

Tuan

* Edible birds nefrs, built by certain birds like fwallovvs in caves clofe to the Tea, and into which the lea flows. I have taken them from the face of a perpendicular rock, to which they ftrongly adhered, in rows like femi-cups, the one touch- ing the other. Captain Tattam at Tappanooly, told me, he has v/atched thofe birds, and that they rob other birds of their eggs, part oi' which (the v/hite pcihaps) they mix up with fomething elfe; and of this they form their nefts. The bed are white and pellucid, worth five or fix dollars per pound. There is another kind got in caves inland : they are dark co- loured, full of feathers, and of very little value. Great quantities of the white kind are carried from all Malay coun- tries

T O N E W G U I N E A. 31

Tuan Hadjee's people could give me their pro- 1774- per names. '^— y-^

To fail into Malaleo harbour, fteer for thefe iflands, if you come from the northward, and leave them on the right hand. The harbour, which is a kind of cove, will foon fhevv itfelf; and in going into it, you muft keep the right-hand fhore on board, to avoid a fhoal on which the fea breaks, that is on the left hand, at the entrance of the harbour. A fhip may lie in this cove in four fathom water perfedly land-locked, within twelve yards of the fhore, to which it would be proper to have a hawfer carried and made fait to a tree. Here we found a very fragrant fmell come from the woods. The latitude of Malaleo is 00° 06' N. and longitude 123° 25' E.

On JVednefday tlie 30th, at funrife, we weighed and rowed out of this fnug fmall harbour ; we turned to the right, and entered the ftraits of Lalalatta, which divide the ifland Lalalatta from the illand Tappa. Thefe ftraits are about one

tries to China, where they are in great efteem, very defervedly, as when ftewed, they are exceeding delicate and nutritious. The Chinefe have a trick of nioiftening them, to make them heavy for fale.

It is very probable the birds ufe that glutinous fea plant called Agal Agal, in making their nefts, as Mr. Dalrymple, in his account of the Sooloo curiofities, fays the natites reported to him.

T have feen in fuia!! iflands, in the Sooloo Archipelago, under overhanging rocks at the fea fide, a glutinous fubftance tVicking to the rock, yellov/ and pellucid, and of an infipid falte. The fifliermcn (Badjoos), that frequent ihofc iflands in covcfcd boats, told iiie, the birds ufed it in building their nefts.

mile

5a AVOYAGE

^i774» mile and a half in length, and in fome places not

Norember. i i i • i i r i-

above forty yards broad, with good loundmgs in them. At the end there is a little ifland like an ordinary dwelling-houfe in fize. Oppofite to it, and not fifty yards from it, acrofs the channel, on the illand Tappa, we found a charming pool of frefh water, where, after filling our jars, we all bathed : we then weighed, left it on the right hand, and fuddenly came out of the narrow ftraits, already mentioned, into the wide ftraits from Latalatta and the ifland of Mandioly, which may be eight miles acrofs. We lay to part of the night, and at daylight paffed a rock within thirty yards of the ifland Mandioly, like a pigeon-houfe in fize and fhape, with a bufli or two atop. We left it on the left hand, as we fteered into the harbour of BiiTory. When the faid pigeon-houfe rock bears north, or even long before that, the peninfula of Biffory, which forms the harbour, will fhew itfelf as in the view. Look out for the reef that lies off the peninfula to feaward, and giving it a reafonable birth, you may fteer in eighteen, fixteen, and fourteen fathom muddy ground into the harbour. There you lie perfectly fmooth in twelve fathom water : frefli water is to be got in a fmall river, the bar of which is fmooth. The harbour of Biflbry lies in latitude 00° 18' fouth, and longitude 123** 40' eaft. About ten miles fouth of the Pigeon- Houfe Rock, there is another rock, nearly of the fame fize, and as near to the land. I call it from its fhape, the Obtufe Cone. It has alfo a bufh of two atop.

On the 31ft, we had fair weather and weflerly winds i we faw no boats, nor any people all day

long

T O N E W G U I N E A. sB

long. Tuan Hadjee prepared to go to vifit his NoIIitcr, relation, the Sultan of Eatchian, accompanied by «— nr^ my fervant Matthew. They had abo\it fifteen miles to walk.

CHAP. III.

Account of the I/land of Gihlo, from the Information of IJhmael 'tuan Hadjee and others — Of the Sago tree^ and the Method of baking the Sago Breads with a Comparifon between the Sago, and Bread Fruit trees,

J. Can fay nothing of the Ifland of Gilolo* from my own experience, having never been upon it. But the following account I learnt from Tuan Hadjee, at leifure hours during the voyage ; and I have thought proper to introduce it in this place.

The great ifland of Gilolo, or Halamahera, which feems to divide the Indian ocean to the eaftward from the great fouth fea, extends from the latitude of f lo' north, to 00^50' fouth; the ifland Morty extending northward of it, to 3° 35' north latitude.

Gilolo was once under one fovereign. Serif, who came from Mecca, and who was brother to the Sultan of Magindano, as alfo to the Sultan of Borneo.

* The Chlnefe are faid to have poflcfled the Moluccas firft, then the Javans, Buggeflls, and Adalays, then the Arabs.

Bartholomew d'Aroinsola'j Conqueft cf the Moluccas.

D On

34 AVOYAGE

1774. On the weft fide of this ifland, lie the fmall

November. . . ' ...

illands of Ternate and Tidore, which give title to two princes, in ftrid alliance with the Dutch.

On Ternate the Dutch have a ftrong ftone caftle, with a garrifon of three hundred and fifty Euro- peans ; and on the ifland refides the Sultanj who lives in great ftate.

- The Dutch, in order to compenfate their allow- ing the Sultan no power to interfere with their plan of curbing all kind of free and open trade (not only with Magindano and other more diftant parts, but with any adjacent country) fliow him great attention and refped, becaufe, if this were not clofely watched, and put under fevere rellric- tions, it would foon affedl their monopoly of the clove and nutmeg, the former of which they per- mit to be cultivated at Amboyna, and the latter at Eanda only.

In order to effed this, or rather to approximate towards it, the Dutch, with great wifdom, difcou- rage the inhabitants of Gilolo from trading with Celebes, Bouro, Ooby, Ceram, Myfol, Salwatty, and other parts. Such prows or veffels, as clear out regularly for thofe iflands, with grain, fago, or other articles permitted, muft have a pafs, which is not only expenfive, but got with difficulty, and muft be renewed every voyage. This ftridt- nefs is to prevent their trading in fpices, growing in abundance, in many retired fpots of the large and woody ifland of Gilolo. They are generally cut down in places of eafy accefs, and near the

Tea;

TO NEW GUINEA. 35

fea ; but what may be thus deftroyed, is not, per- jj^JJ^f- haps, the hundredth part of the trees, producing this precious fruit.

The parties Tent out on fuch bufinefs, confift generally of a military officer, or fome civil fervant belonging to the Dutch, with three or four Euro- pean attendants, and .perhaps twenty or thirty Bug- gefs foldiers, with their officer. They generally make it a party of pleafure ; and the Buggefs offi- cer (while the chief is regaling himfelf in the heat of the day) fets off to the woods with fome of his men, where he executes his commiffion juft as it fuits his convenience ; taking care to bring back plenty of branches, to fhow his affiduity, when, perhaps, they are all from one tree.

Sometime a ferjeant at an out-poft, to get into favour with his chief, fends an account of his hav- ing difcovered on a certain fpot, a parcel of fpice trees ^ with news, perhaps, at the fame time, that he has deftroyed them all — this gets him into fa- vour. Poffibly the chief's domeftics might inform him of many more fuch fpots at hand ; but they are too wife to fay much on fo delicate a fubjcdt.

A Dutch governor of Ternate, once travelling on the main of Gilolo, flopped at a Malay village, where he faw a long notched flick made of the clove tree *. The inhabitants (whofe houfes, as

* The clove tree I never faw : but on the ifland Tappa I faw a nutmeg tree, and gathered the unripe fruit, which exadtly re- fembles our peach. The thick unripe coat that covers the mace, we ftewed in our diflies.

D 2 in

36 AVOYAGE

„ '774' in other Malay countries, are built on ftilts or potts- November, \ r c r r r

about five or fix foot from the ground) ufe fuch

notched fticks as ladders to afcend by, about the

bignefs of a man's leg. Unfortunately,, however,

for the poor people of the village, this ftick or

ladder, was longer than fufficient to mount to any

of their houfes ^ and being of the clove tree, they

were deemed guilty of having fomehow dealt in-

that forbidden fruit. The Dutch are fevere upon

thofe occafions, Tuan Hadjee told me, the Sul^

Ian of Batchian applies frequently to the governor

of Ternate for fpices, to fhow his zeal, though they

grow in abundance near his houfe ; fpices being

regularly fcnt to Ternate by the annual Ihip from

Batavia.^

The dominions of the Sultan of Ternate *, comprehend the greateft part of the north of

Gilolo,

* The feingdoih of 'Ternate drew militia from the following countries and iflands under its dominion in former times : From the fixteen burgs of Ternate » 3000

Ifland Motir 300

Gazia " ■- ■"■■ 300

Xula — — — 4000

Bouro > —' 4000

Veranulla near Aniboyna — 15,000"

Buana and Manipa * ' ■ 3000

MyoandTyfory — — — — 400 Bao and Jaquita on Gilolo — — — looo Bata China on ditto ■ 10,000

6000

Thenorth-eaft part of Celebes gave from 1 Tetoli and Bohol — — S

Kydipan ■ 7000

Gorantalu and Ilboto ■ ^ ■ lO.ooa

Tomine ■■ ■"• 12,000

Dondo

TO NEW GUINEA. 37

"Gilolo, which, for a Malay country, is pretty well ^'774- inhabited. Under his dominion, is alfo a great part of the north eaft quarter of Celebes, where are the Dutch fettlements of Manado and Gorontalu, which they maintain for two reafons ; firft, as fron- tiers to Gilolo, on the weft and north weft ; and fe- ■condly, as producing much gold, which the Dutch receive in exchange for the cotton cloths of Indof- tan, and opium from Bengal, whilft the Sultan has only certain revenues from the lands. To him alfo belongs the Ifland of Sangir, with the adjacent Iflands of Siao, Karakita, Tagulanda, Banka, and Tellufyacg, of which more will be faid here- after.

The ifland Morty belongs alfo to the Sultan of Ternate ; it is very poorly inhabited, and is faid to have many groves of thelibby or fago tree, araongft its woods. Parties go often thither from Gilolo, for no other purpofe than to cut them down for the flour or pith. Morty looks very pleafant from the fea, gently rifing from the beach. The Dutch ftridly guard the ftraits between Morty and Gilolo, with Panchallangs (veflels of one maft, and the lyre tanjong) and with Corocoros ; but, the guarda cof-

Dondo ■ ■ 700

Labaque < ■ " looo

Japua ■ -•■■■• 10,000

Ifland Sangir or Sanguir - 3000

90,700

The fort of Ternate was taken from the Portuguefc in 1606, There were found in it forty pieces of brafs cannon.

Description generalle df. l'Asii; par Pere d'Avitay, p, 904.

tas

38 A VOYAGE

'774- tas of Gilolo, are chiefly panchallangs and floops. Twelve panchallangs are kept at Ternate. The guarda coftas of Amboyna and Ceram, are chiefly Corocoros, and at Banda, floops. Prows often go a trading from Sooloo to Ternate ; they carry many Chinefe articles, and bring back rice, fwallo or fea Aug, fliark fins, tortoife-fhell, a great many loories, and fome fmall pearls ; but no fpices, except per- haps a very few by flealth. Euggefs prows (called paduakans, fitted with the tripod maft) go alfo to Gilolo ; but they muft have a Dutch pafs : and I have been told, that notwithRanding the protedtion of this pafs, fometimes a rapacious Dutch cruifer meets them, trumps up a llory againlt them, and makes prize of them.

If the Sultan of Ternate or Tidore fits out a prow of any fize, and it is fufpedlcd (he is going to fome diftance ; the Dutch will expert to know the place of her deftination ; and, if the Sultan fays it is to the Euggefs country, or to any diftant place, for cloth or fuch merchandize, the reply will be, that the Company's warehoufes contain every thing of that kind he can want, and all is at his fcrvice. If he ftill perfifts, and fays, I am an inde- pendant prince, and will fend my vefTel whither I pleafe ; the governor at laft fends him perhaps a valuable prefent of various calicoes, fuch as he knows will be acceptable to his women, who may, at the very fame time, be fecretly bribed to divert the Sultan from his purpofe : fo cautious are they of bringing matters to extremity, and they gene- rally fucceed, or at the worft, have leave to fend an officer in the vefTel.

The

TONEW GUINEA. 39

The Sultans of Ternate and Tidore * have often had bloody wars with each other : and the Dutch have known how to profit by them.

On the ifland of Ternate, are three Miffigys (mofques) ferved by two Caliphas and four Imums, and many other inferior clergy, called Katibes, Modams and Mifimis. There is one church for the Dutch, but none for the Portuguefe, of whom many remain on the ifland, but they are grown as black as the natives.

The country is divided into five nigris (a certain diftrid) over which are five Synagees, as they pronounce f , a kind of chief There is alfo a Captain Laut, who commands the Sultan's prows ; and a Gogo, an officer who fuperintends the police : amongft other parts of his duty, it is his bufmefs to fee that the inhabitants keep the fences of their gardens in repair, againft the wild hogs and deer ; and that houfes be provided with pots of fand to extinguifli fire. This regulation, well in- tended, is badly executed amongll: the natives ; while the Dutch economy within, and near their fort, is admirably exerted in this, and in every other part of India.

The Dutch have a civil Governor and council, befides a fabandar and fifcal, whofe power is often

• The prefcnt Sultan of Ternate is named Mahutajine Jillil Woodine — The Sultan of Tidore is Immel Loodine— and the Sultan of Batchiaw is Mahniood Sahowdine.

t Sangiac, poflibly from Sencbaque, which fignifies, in the Turkifli language, commander. Bartholomew Arginso- LA, Conquest of the Moluccas, p. 15.

feverely

40 A V O Y A G E

NoVe^^b r Severely felt, not only by natives, but alfo by Eu- *— V— -' ropeans, who are prohibited trade with all foreign parts, but Batavia.

No Chinefe junk or vefTel is allowed to come to Ternate from China ; but Chinefe junks trade from China to Macaflar, which may be confidered as the weft frontier to the Moluccas ; in fhort, the Dutch contrive to make Ternate as dependant as pollible on Batavia, for what they want ; and although, as I have faid, the Sooloos fend velTels to Ternate, no Dutch burgher, or Chinefe inhabitant, can fend a velTel to Sooloo.

Neither can any Dutch burgher trade to the coaft of New Guinea for Miffoy bark, the pow- der of which is much ufed by the Javans for rub- bing their bodies, as the Gentoos on Coromandel ufe fandal wood — the difcreet Chinefe only hav- ing accefs to New Guinea.

The ifland of Tidore is but two or three leagues from Ternate ; being very populous, it has no fewer than twenty-fi\^ mofques. The capital mofque is at the Sultan's, and is ferved by one Caliph, and four Imums. The Suhan poiTeifes great part of Gilolo, to the fouth and eaft ; the chief towns there are called Maba, * and Weda, and Patany. f On Patany hook or point, is a

* The French are faid to have got cloves from Maba.

t The people of Patany fupplied with clove plants, the French, who went no further eaft than the ifland of Gibby. Voyage a la Nouvelle Guinee.

very

TO NEW GUINEA. 41

very ftrong and capacious natural fort or faftnefs, j^Jj;*;„^ accefiible only by means of ladders, up the face of a perpendicular rock. The top is flat ground, con- taining many houfes, gardens, &c. the whole being about three miles in circumference. The Sultan of Tidore, befides his proportion of Gilolo, claims the iflands of Waygiou, Myfol, and Batanta. Sal- watty Is governed by its own Rajah, who at pre- fent is at variance with the Dutch : his predecef- for was banifhed to the Cape of Good Hope.

The Sultan of Batchian is the leaft dependant of the three Gilolo princes, for he v/ill not truft him- felf in the power of the Dutch, ever fince they fent a great force to his town, on the ifland Mandioly, to furprife him in the night. A captain of Bug- gelTes having apprized him of it in time, the Sultan got off in fmall canoes with his family and moll portable effe<fts, through creeks, and narrow arms of the fea, with which his country is divided into many iflands. Next morning the Dutch wreaked their vengeance on his houfe and furniture. This happened ten or twelve years ago ; fince then, matters have been fo far made up, that he admits eight or ten Dutch foldiers about his perfon, at his houfe, which is not far from Fort Barnevelt, in the ft raits of Batiang or Labuhat.

The Sultan of Batchian once oflfered to fearch for gold in his country, where it certainly abounds : but the Dutch fignifying to him that they expedted the monopoly of what he fliould find, in exchange for calicoes, iron, &:c. which he might want, and that he fhould not fend to other parts for thofe

neceJGTaries,

42 A V O Y A G E

«77+- neceflfaries, he declined encouraging his people to ^..^.^-^^ make the fearch he had propofed.

The Suhan of Batchian is fovereign not only of the ifland fo called, but of the iflands Ooby, Ce- ram, and Goram— Coram has thirteen Mofques.

I have been told that on the iflands of Ternate and Tidbre, but on Ternate efpecially, European garden ftufF grows in as great perfedlion as at Ba~ tavia. Both thefe iflands are exceedingly well wa- tered, by ftreams from their refpedtive peaks, which are generally covered with clouds, and the peak of Ternate fometimes emits fire. On the ifland Mo- tlr was lately a great eruption, attended with an earthquake. I had an account of it from aBuggefs, who, during the eruption at Motir, fet off in his prow, into which he afTured me fome hot ftones fell.

The ifland Gilolo * abounds with bullocks and buffalos, goats and deer, alfo wild hogs ; there are but few flieep, and no wild beafts. The wild hogs frequent the places where fago trees have lately been cut down, and the flour or pith has been ta- ken out. They there feaft and fatten on the re- mains, and thofe who have feen them, have de- fcribed them to me, as appearing with their young black pigs, like flies upon a table.

* The Dutch forbid the manufacturing of cloth on the ifland Gilolo ; noiwiihftanding which, the natives do it, getting a great deal of cotton yarn from the idand Bally, and the Bug- gefs country. The BuggelTes make exceeding good chequered cloth, very ftrong.

The

TONEW GUINEA. 43

The fago or Ubby tree, has, like the coco nut tree, no diftindt bark that peels off, and may be defined a long tube of hard wood, about two inch- es thick, containing a pulp or pith mixed with ma- ny longitudinal fibres. The tree being felled, it is cut into lengths of about five or fix feet. A part of the hard wood is then fliced off, and the work- man, coming to the pith, cuts acrofs (generally with an adze made of hard wood called aneebong) the longitudinal fibres and the pith together ; leav- ing a part at each end uncut -, fo that, when it is excavated, there remains a trough, into which the pulp is again put, mixed with water, and beat with a piece of wood ; then the fibres feparated from the pulp, float atop, and the flour fubfides. After be- ing cleared in this manner by feveral waters, the pulp is put into cylindrical balkets, made of the leaves of the tree ; and, if it is to be kept fome time, thofe balkets are generally funk in frefh wa- ter.

One tree will produce from two to four hundred weight of flour. I have often found large pieces of the fago tree on the fea fhore, drifts from other countries. The fago, thus fteeped in the fait wa- ter, had always a four difagreeable fmell ; and in this ftate, I dare fay, the wild hogs would not tafte it. The leaf of the fago tree makes the beft co- vering for houfes, of all the palm * kind : it will 1^ feven years. Coverings of the nipa or common

* Thofe trees of the palm kind, have all got a heart like what is called the cabbage tree ; even the head of the common rattan has a fniall cabbage, of v^hich I have eat.

attop,

44

November

A VOYAGE

>774- attop, fuchasthey ufe on the fouth weft coaft of Sumatra, will not laft half the time. When fago trees are cut down, frefh ones fprout up from the roots.

We feldom or never fee fago in Europe, but in a granulated ftate. To bring it into this ftate from the flour, it muft be firft moiftened, and pafled through a fieve into an iron pot (very (hallow) held over a fire, which enables it to afTume a globular form.

Thus, all our grained fago is half baked, and will keep long. The pulp or powder, of which this is made, will alfo keep long, if preferved from the air ; but, if expofed, it prefently turns four.

The Papua oven, for this flour, is made 6f earthen ware. It is generally nine inches fquare, and about four deep : it is divided into two equal parts, by a partition parallel to its fides. Each of thofe parts is fubdivided into eight or nine, about an inch broad ; fo the whole contains two rows of cells, about eight or nine in a row. AVhen the cell is broad, the fago cake is not likely to be well baked. I think the beft fized cell is fuch as would contain an ordinary odavo volume upon its edge. When they are of fuch a fize, the cakes will be properly baked, in the following manner.

The oven is fuppofed to have at its bottom, 4 round handle, by which the baker turns the cells downward upon the fire. "W^en fufficiently heat- ed, it is turned with the mouths of the cells up ;

and

T O N E W G U I N E A. 45

and then refts upon the handle (which is now be- November. come the bottom) as on a ftand. v— v-i*-'

Whilft the 6ven is heating, the baker is fuppofed to have prepared his flour, by breaking the lumps fmall ; moiftening it with water, if too dry, and pafling it once or twice through a fieve, at tlie fame time rejecting any parts that look black or fmell four. This done, he fills the cells with the flour, lays a bit of clean leaf over, and with his. finger prefles the flour down into the cell, then co- vers all up with leaves, and puts a ftone or piece of wood atop, to keep in the heat. In about ten or twelve minutes, the cakes will be fufRciently baked, according to their thicknefs ; and bread thus baked, will keep, I am told, feveral years. I have kept it twelve months, nor did vermin de- ftroy it in that time. It may not be amifs to mix a little fait with the flour.

The fago bread, frefli from the oven, eats juft like hot rolls. I grew very fond of it, as did both my officers. If the baker hits his time, the cakes will be nicely browned on each fide. If the heat be too great, the corners of the cakes will melt in- to a jelly, which, when kept, becomes hard and horny ; and, if eat frefh, proves infipid. When properly baked, it is in a kind of middle ftate, be- tween raw and jellied.

A fago cake, when hard, requires to be foaked in water, before it be eaten, it then foftens and fwells into a curd, like bifcuit foaked j but, if

eat

46 AVOYAGE

1774- cat without foaking (unlefs frefh from the oven) it November, ^^^j^ (jifagrgeable, like fand in the moutli.

No wonder then, if agricuhure be negleded in a country, where the labour of live men, in fell- ing fago trees, beating the flour, and inftantly ba- king the bread, will maintain a hundred. I muft own my crew would have preferred rice ; and, when my fmall ftock of rice, which I carried from Balambangan, was near expended, I have heard them grumble and fay, nanti makan roti Papua, " we muft foon eat Papua bread." But, as I took all opportunities of baking it frefh, being almoft con- tinually in port, they were very well contented.

The fago bread intended for immediate ufe, need not be kept fo long in the oven as what is in- tended for fea ufe, which may be faid to refem- ble bifcuit.

I have often refledled how well Dampier., Fun- nel, Roggewein, and many other circumnaviga- tors might have fared, when pafTmg this way in diftrefs for provifions, had they known where to find the groves of fago trees, with which moft: iflands here in low latitudes abound ; Morty, near Gilolo efpecially. Frefh bread made of fago flour, and the kima (a large Ihell fifh like a cockle) would have been no bad fupport among the Moluccas. The kima is found in abundance, of all fizes, at low water, during fpring tides, on the reefs of co- ral rocks. From experience, I equal the frefh baked fago bread to our wheat-bread ; and the kima ftewed, is as good as moft fifh, nor does one

tire

T O N E W G U I N E A. 47

tire of it ; but it muft be ftewed fome tiirfe, or it will not be tender. Its row wilUfometimes weigh fix pounds i the fifh altogether, when cleared of the (hell, weighing twenty or thirty pounds.

Neither is the kima cockle * the worfe for being large. Sometimes the kima in the fhell may en- danger ftaving a fmall canoe, getting it in. The beft way is to put a flick under water, into the gaping fhell, which then clofes and holds fafl ; then drag, or lift it towards the fhore, and flab it with a cutlafs ; it dies immediately, and can be taken out. Small kimas, about the fize of a man's head, are very good : they will keep long alive if wetted frequently with fait water.

Large fhips, navigating in thofe feas, mufl natu- rally dread the reefs of rocks, which might produce fo much good to them, if in diflrefs for provifions : but to profit from them, they mufl hit the time of low water fpring tides. The vafl fleets of Man- gaio boats that fet out from Sooloo and Mindano, to cruize among the Philippine iflands, againfl the Spaniards, trufl to the reefs of rocks, which may be faid to furround all thofe iflands, producing them fi(h for their fubfiflence ; as they only lay in rice or fago bread.

The account I have given of the fago tree, (hews how eafily the inhabitants of thofe coun- tries may find fubfiflence. They have alfo all

* Dampier mentions in his voyage to New Britain, his having got a cockle fhell 278 lb. weight, on the weft of New Guinea. Harris's coUeftion, p. 1 24.

over

48 A V O Y A G E

over the Moluccas, and on New Guinea, tRe rima, or bread fruit, which is the chief food of the inhabitants of Otaheitee, in the South Sea, where (according to Dodor Forfter's * curious computation) ten or twelve perfons live eight months upon the produce of an acre, planted with this tree. I fhall therefore endeavour to (how how many perfons may live on an acre, planted with fago trees which, growing more upright, and the roots not fpreading fo much, will confequently take up much lefs room than the rima tree.

I fhall allow a fago tree to take up the room of lO feet fquared, or lOO fquare feet. Now, the contents of an acre are 43,500 fquare feet, which being divided by a hundred, allow 433 trees to grow within that fpace. But, to give ample room, I Ihall fay 300 trees only; and fuppofing that, one with another, they give 300 weiglit of flour ; then three trees, or 900 weight may maintain one man for a year, and an acre to be cut down, would maintain 100 men for the fame time. Now as fago trees are 7 years a growing, I divide 100 by 7, v/hich will then allow 14 men to be maintained for a year, on the produce of one feventh part of an acre, immediately ; or, on the produce of a whole acre, progreffively cut, one feventh part at a time, allowing frefli trees to fprout up.

So far the inhabitants of the globe. In low la- titudes, may be juftly confidered as happily

* Obfervr.tions ia a voyage round the wodd, p. 220.

fituated }

TONEWGUINJEA. 49

fituated ; fomething like what is faid of the golden Nolemtei- age, they may live almoft without labour. But ^ — , — ^ certain evils, in a great meafure, counterbalance this Teeming happinefs : the faculties of the mind are blunted, and the body is fo enervated by indo- lence, that thefe petty ftates are fubjedl to be overcome, by what Europeans would call a very dcfpicable enemy, as they know nothing of the polity of great focieties.

The inhabitants of the Moluccas in particular, not being able to maintain their independence againft Europeans, (whatever they did before hiltory gives an account of them) have had their country continually in a ftate of war, as the monopoly of the clove and nutmeg has been fucceflively a fubjedt of contention between the Portugueze, Spaniards, and Dutch.

I choofe to draw a veil over that part of hiftory which informs us that our own country ever had any (hare in that trade.

E CHAP

so A V O Y A G E

CHAP. IV.

Tuan Hadjee retimis on Board with a Meffenger from the Sultan of Batchian — Sailed from Biffory Harbour — Had an accidental Interview with the Sultan of Batchian^ on the I/land Bally — Sailed thence for 'Tomoguy — Pnt into Selang Harbour — Defcription of it — Sailed thence, and put into a Harbcjur on the Ifland Gag — Defcription of it — failed thence, and arrived at T'omogiiy, where we

narrowly efcaped Shipwreck Hauled the Veffel

afldore to repair,

'774* ■■

December. V-/ N I'hurfday the firft of Decetnber, a fifhing boat came on board. She was the only embark- ation I had feen fince we left Tonkyl, excepting the fmall canoe off Karakita. At night I lay off in twelve fathom water, muddy ground ; but, in the day I hauled clofe to the peninfula : I was then hid from the fea. This I did to avoid being feen by any Dutch cruifer in the offing, that might be paf- fing this way. A large fhip might lie clofe to the peninfula, in five fathom water, muddy ground, and heave down conveniently, as it is fteep.

On Friday the 2d, it blew very frefh from the

N. W. faw nobody all day gathered, near

the fea fhore, fome ripe limes from the tree.

On Saturday the 3d, about noon, Tuan Hadjee returned by fea ; he came in a fmall prow or canoe, mounted with outriggers^ and had three prows

bcfides

TO NEW GUINEA. 51

befides with him. He was accompanied by a mef- ^ ^774-

- . . ■' December,

fenger from the Saltan of Batchian, with a prefent of fowls, fruit, rice, &c. and about twenty pounds of cloves in a bafket. The meflTenger's name was Tuan Bobo. In return, I prefented him with a whole piece of Englilh fcarlet broad cloth, for the Sultan ; and two pieces of gingham for himfelf. I obferved Tuan Hadjee fent mofi of the fine goods he had got from Mr. Herbert, at Balambangan, afhore at this place, by Tuan Bobo.

At four in the afternoon we rowed out of BiiTory Harbour, and flood to the fouthward : at midnight, we anchored behind a fmall ifle, called Pulo Bally, in two fathom water, fandy ground.

On Sunday the 4th, in the morning, we had a hard fquall of wind from the N. W. with rain. About ten in the forenoon, came on board in a ca- noe three perfons, who faid they were Rajahs on the ifland Ceram. After Tuan Hadjee and I had a little converfation with them, concerning that ifland and other matters, in which they told me that cloves certainly grew on many parts of it, they went afliore to the ifland Bally. We then weighed, and got under fail, intending to touch at the ifland of Waygiou, or fomewhere near it, in order, as I had agreed with Tuan Hadjee, to j)ur- chafe, and fit up a corocoro, to enable us to pro- fecute our voyage to New Guinea ; for we thought Batchian was too near Ternate to do that bufinefs there.

Prefently after we faw a boat ftanding towards us,

with a white flag. Tuan Hadjee told me it was

E 2 the

SZ A V O Y A G E

the Sultan of Batchian. As it then blew frefh, am! the wind came round from the N. W to the weft, and W. by S. I put t^ck to regain the ifland. I found the vefTel work very ill, being hard to veer ; and I regained the anchorage with difficulty. The Sultan had many fmall prows attending him ; one of them came very opportunely to tow us in bc- hind the ifland.

I then went afliore withTuan Hadjee, to pay my refpeds to the Sultan of Batchian. He fat under the fhade of a covered canoe, that was hauled up, upon fome boards laid acrofs the gunnel ; and, when I came within ten or twelve yards of him, he ran forwards and embraced me.

After being feated in the canoe, I toid him in- Malays, which he fpoke very well, that I was go- ing to Tanna Papua (New Guinea) and afked the favour of him to aflift me with a linguift. He ve- ry readily confented to my requeft, and defired me to go to the ifland Tomoguy, near the Farge ifland Waygiou, where he would give diredion, that one captain Mareca fliould accompany me to New Guinea, and be my linguift. In the converfatioa I had with the Sultan, I told him the Englifli wifli- ed him very well, but, would have nothing to fay to the Molucca iflands ; and I advifed him to keep on good terms with the Dutch. When I had ftaid with him about an hour, I lock my leave. I found I was the firft Englifliman he had ever feen.

The Sultan is a handfome man, about forty-four years of age. Tuan Hadjee, whilft we were with

the

T O N E W G U I N E A. 5^

t"he Sultan, fat on the ground, and every time he fpoke to the Sultan, nay almoft at every word, lifted his hands clofe together to his head, it being the Mohicca cufcom to do it frequently, and much oftner than in Indoftan.

Pulo Bally is an illand about two miles round, and lies in the latitude of 00° 30' S. There is good anchorage to the eaftward of it in twelve and thir- teen fathom water, muddy ground. It has abun- dance of wood and frefli water ; and as I went behind it from the S. W. I bdieve there is no dan- ger that way, A fmall ifland, called Siao, lies near it. About three leagues S. W. of Bally arc fome dangerous breakers, which I faw very high, as it was ftormy this morning. About two in the after- noon, we weighed and flood on to the fouthward, the weather being moderate: but we found a large Iwell from the wellward, and palTed within the flioal which has been mentioned. The breakers were exceedingly high upon it. The channel between it and the oppofite fliore of Batchian is about five miles wide. About ten at night it fell calm, du- ring which I found a great fvvell again from the weft ward, and the fea broke feveral times ; owing, I fuppofe, to a ftrong current. On the fouth-weft point of Batchian is a long low point, which I call Flat Point. We pafTed it in the night, about three miles off, and had no foundings with feventy fa- thoms of line. It lies in latitude 00" 38' S. and longitude 123' 38' E.

On Monday the 5th, in the morning. Flat Point bore N. W. by N. and the high hill of Labuhat

on

54 AVOYAGE

on the eaft fide of the ftraits that divide Batchian from it, bore E. by S. At the fame time we could fee the ifland Ooby very plain, and Pulo Tappa bore S. S. E. Had no ground within half a mile of the fho'-e. About noon we were abreaft of the Itraiis above mentioned : they are called fometimes the ftraits of Betyang ; nnd we could fee within the ftraits a hill with a flat top, like what is called the truftum of a cone. The Dutch fort Barnavelt is faid to be at the foot of it.

At nr:on we were in the latitude of 00° 45' S. Labuhat Hill bearing E. half N.

Converfing with Tuan Hadjee about Batchian, he informed me, that a great deal of cloves might be had from thence, and from Gilolo alfo, if any fhip ftiould think of trading that way ; the Dutch being much off their guard to what they were for- merly. He alfo told me, pearls were to be had amongft the Moluccas.

On I'ucfday the 6th, we had fqually and rainy weather, with W. and W. N. W. winds ; fteered eaft. About ten in the morning, the wind coming to the S. E. ran into the harbour of Selang.

In fteering along-fhore, the ifland Selang, that makes the harbour, may be eafily perceived. It is not flat and low, neither is it very high ; but the eaft part flopes down to where it feems to join the main land of Batchian ; the ftraits there being nar- row, and not five foot deep. The ifland forms two harbours with the main land j an outer and

an

T O N E W G U I N E A. 55

an inner harbour. There is no danger in running into either, but what is plainly feen. I would ad- vife to keep near the ifland. In going into the in- ner harbour, keep ftill near the ifland, and you will pafs between two reefs, both of which may be feen even at high water, as they will then be onfy covered with three foot and a half water, and the coral rocks fhew themfelves very plain under water in fo fmall a depth. The width between the reefs is about 1 00 fathom, and the depth twelve fathom, foft muddy ground ; the inner harbour being about two miles broad and three long, and the general depth ten fathom. The latitude of Selang har- bour is 00° 50' S. and its longitude 124° 10' E.

In the evening we rowed out of the harbour ; but the wind coming to the eaftward, we put back, and anchored behind the fecond point, in the outer harbour.

On TVednefday the 7th, in order to compleat our water, as I did not immediately find any on the ifland, we rowed behind a reef of rocks, in the outer harbour, and anchored in feven fathom good holding ground, clofe to the main land of Batchian.

Here I found frefh water very acceflible ; a reef of coral rocks fheltering this little harbour from the S. and S. W. fwell, the point of Labuhat (the ex- treme to the weftward) being then fliut in with what I call Attop Point, as many nipa or attop trees grow there. To day it blew very frefh from the weflward. Between this and the ftraits of Labu- hat, or Betyang, which we have paifed, lies, as

Tuan

56 A V O Y A G E

DecJmter Tuan Hadjcc told mc, a moll commodious har- V— -v"**^ bour, called Wyoua ; but we did not go into it.

Hitherto we faw no boats, houfes, or people. Sent a little way into the woods in fearch of clove i4rees, but none were found. The people, howe- ver, difcovered many nutmeg trees very tall. There was no fruit vifible on the branches ^ but many old nutmegs were lying on the ground, and molt of them had fprouted.

Here all hands bathed, which we generally did when frefh water was acceflible. We alfo got on Attop Point many kima, which made excellent curry.

On I'hurfday the 8th, we weighed in the morn- ing, and failed out of the harbour of Selang with a firft land wind : it then fell calm. About ten A. M. the wind came frefh from the fouth-welV, lleer- ed S. E. Palfcd a fpot of coral rocks with five fa- thom water on fome parts of it, lying S. E. by S. from the eaft point of Selang ifland, and about two miles diftant from it. I was told by fome of Tuan Hadjee's people, that there was a paflage for fhips within it, and I found upon it a great rippling of a tide or current. At four P. M. we faw the iflands that are faid to lie to the fouthward of Pulo Dammer, and are called Gorongo. They bore eaft. In the night we fteered S. E. to avoid fome rocks, which Tuan Hadjee faid lay to the eaft- ward of us. *

In the morning of the 9th, we could fee Pulo Pifang bearing eaft about eight leagues ; it is co- vered

TO NEW GUINEA. 57

vcred with trees ; and two iflands called LUiola and Tapiola, covered alfo with trees ; the iflands Go- rongo, that lie fouth of Pulo Dammer, (mention- ed yefterday) bearing north. They lie in i° lo' S. latitude ; PuloPifang lies in latitude i° 30' S. and longitude 1 25" 40' E. At funfet Pulo Pifang bore S. by E. half E. We could then fee the high land of Ceram very diftant : hauled up N. E.

On Saturday the lOth, in the morning we could fee the iflands of Bo, bearing S. S. E. At the fame time Pulo Pifang bore S. W. by S. We had very fmooth water, with the wind at N. W. and N. W. by W. fleering N. E. I had no obfervation at noon, Pulo Pifang then bore S. W. 1 6 leagues. Pulo Bo, bore fouth, and Pulo Popo fouth eaft -, could alfo fee an ifland called Gag, of middling height, bear- ing north eaft. There was little wind, fometimes it was calm.

Sunday the nth. All night we fleered "north eafl:, with the wind at wefl, and rowed a good deal. In the morning feveral fmall iflands, flat and low, bore from E. by N. to E. S. E. they were about four in number ; one in particular, called Piamis, had a pointed peak, might be three or four hundred feet high. At noon, Pulo Gag bore N. N. E. five or fix leagues. We were then in the latitude of 00^ ^^ fouth.

At one P. M. Pulo Gag bore from N. half E. to N. E. by N. about four leagues diflant. Another ifland, in appearance, as high as Gag, bore N. W. by N. half N. about ten leagues diftant : this we fourjd afterwards to be Gibby. Two fmall iflands,

ooe

58 AVOYAGE

one of them with a hummoc upon it, lay S. by W. from Gag ; they are named Doif Some high land appeared to the eaftward, which I was told to be the iiland Waygiou.

At funfet, a boat with three Papua men came on board ; I hired them to tow us into a fine bay on the fouth eaft quarter of PliIo Gag. Here we an- chored in eight fathom water, muddy ground, within fifty yards of the f\rand.

At eight in the evening, Tuan Hadjee went to Tomoguy, whither we had been directed, (a place near Gibby Monpine, on the wefi: coaft of the iiland Waygiou) in the fame boat, leaving her own- er, who was a Papua man, and fpoke good Malays, on board of the galley.

On Monday ihc i2\h, in the morning, I went alliore upon Gag, and found a fmall clear rivulet, where we watered. Wc alfo fupplied ourfelves with wood, then weighed and rowed out, intending to proceed to the ifland of Tomoguy j as we ex- peded Tuan Hadjee, by this time, had been there.

At the mouth of the harbour we met a boat with four Papua men, and two women, which 1 hired to tow us out, there being little wind, and we therefore rowing at the fame time. I obferved the two women plied their paddles more than the men : their hire was a red handkerchief Having got out of the bay, we found a tide or current fet iirong to the northward : fo we continued all night fleering north eafl, thinking the tide fet then to

the

T O N E W G U I N E A. 5^

the fouthward. At noon we were in the latitude t. ^^74-

r o , r I December.

of 00^ 10' louth.

The 13th was calm in the morning ; a little be- fore noon, we faw a boat ftanding towards us. At noon, Pulo Gag bore from W. by S. to S. W. by W. fix leagues i and the fouth part of Gibby, bore weft half north ; our latitude was then 00° 1 o' fouth. A high ifland called Ruib, at the fame time, bore N. by E. half E. and part of Waygiou, which re- markably figures a cock's comb, being a long in- dented ridge of a hill, with fome white chalky fpots upon it, bore E. N. E. At this time, we were within fight of the beach of a long flat ifland, called Yew, which bore from E. by N. to E. by S. And we faw ten fmall low iflands to the fouthward. But, before I go farther, I mu(\ fay fomething of the ifland Gag, and then return to Tuan Hadjee, who came on board a little after noon, in the fame boat wherein the night before he had left that ifland.

Pulo Gag, in latitude oo'' 1 8' fouth, and longi- tude 126" 40' eaft, is an ifland of middling height. When plainly feen, it looks very like land of Eu- rope, not being loaded with wood, as iflands in Malay countries generally are. From this circum- ftance, I judge it to be rather barren in general ; tho' the valley where I landed, and which ap- pears in the view, had a rich foil, with a moil; luxuriant vegetation ; and that part of the ifland, on the north fide of the bay, is covered with tall timber trees ; whereas, the trees on thofe other parts that appear in the view, to the fouth weft, are rather dwarfifli. I was told that a good many

fago

6o AVOYAGE

1774- fago trees grew upon it. This ifland is not inha- bited, tho' travellers by water, in their way trom Patany-hook, on the ifland Gilolo, and from the ifland Gibby to Waygiou, often put into the bay where I did, to pafs the night, and fome- times Itay there a fifliing for feveral days; the Ifland Gag being about half way betwixt Gibby and Waygiou, and almoit in the trade. To go into the bay, fend firft a boat to lie upon the fpots of coral rocks, that are on each hand in the entrance, which is fufficienily broad. Thefe rocks Ihow themfelves by their bright colour under water j but never above water, even at the loweft. Off Pulo Gag lie feveral banks, with ten and twenty fathom depth, fandy ground : on thofe banks is good fifliing.

A little after noon, as I have faid, Tuan Had- jee returned on board in the fame boat that car- ried him from Gag; he brought captain Mareca along with him, who was to be our linguifl: to New Guinea. We therefore immediately bore away for the ifland of Tomoguy, where captain Mareca lived, and which was not yet fcen, it be- ing hid by the larger iflands of Batang Pally.

We pafled the fouthward of Batang Pally, by the north fide of a fmall low ifland, not half a mile round, covered with trees, leaving it on the right hand, and ftill fl:eering round Batang Pally. After fun- fct, we arrived at Tomoguy ifland, and paffing fouthward, anchored to the eaftward of it, in eighteen fathoms muddy ground, pretty clofe to ftiore : it was then near eiglit o'clock, and very

dark.

T O N E W G U I N E A. 6i

dark. On the Papua man's going afhore, I re- ^'774- warded him handibmely for the ufe of his boat. v — y->-'

On H^ednejday the 14th, in the morning it began to blow at north eaft ; being a lee fhore and very lleep, we rode for fome time in great danger. We dragged our grapnel from the mud foundings, but it luckily hooked the coral rocks, and held fall:, while the fea broke under our ftcrn. I could not but be vexed Captain Mareca had brought us to an anchor in fo bad a place, when many fafe har- bours were near ; and the darknefs, when we anchored the night before, prevented my feeing the badnefs of our birth. About noon, when the gale had moderated a little, Captain Mareca came to us in a corocoro, with ten men and f>addles. They prefently carried out a wooden anchor, and rattan cable, which by floating, made an excellent warp ; they alfo towed us, and we got out of our danger.

I immediately made fail for a place called Ma- nafuin, about two leagues from Tomoguy ; and there I anchored in a fmooth bay, in twelve fathom water, clean fandy ground. The people, who affifted us fo opportunely, were rewarded to their wifh.

On Thurfday the 1 5th. In this bay, I pafTed the night very happy with the thoughts of having juft efcaped fbipwreck. Tuan Hadjee and I had agreed to haul the veflel afhore at Tomoguy, or fome where near it, not only to clean, as I feared the worms had got into her bcttotn, but to raifc her

62 A V O Y A G E

one ftreak or plank, as I found her, in crofling from Tonkyl to the Mohiccas, rather too low, the fea often coming over her gunnel, which was no higher than her gallery beams, and getting into the hold through the thatch. I had not been afhore at Tomoguy ; and, from the danger I had experi- enced near it, I imagined we could not there do our bufmefs with fafety. I therefore propofed to haul afhore, where we were. To this Tuan Hadjee obje6led, as did moft of the people that belonged to him : fo I did not infill upon it.

About noon, Captain Mareca came on board in the corocoro that had fo greatly aflifted us yefter- day. He faid, we might haul afhore at high water, clofe to his houfe, the veflel being previ- oufly lightened, to enable her to float over the coral rocks. To this I confented : fo we weighed, and rowed back to Tomoguy, Captain Mareca's corocoro towing us at the fame time. We an- chored in fifteen fathom, oppofite his houfe, until the tide ferved ; and having taken up fome of the coral rocks, as well as lightened the veffel, we hauled her afhore at a village, confifling only of Captain Mareca's houfe, the houfe of the Papua man, whofe boat carried Tuan Hadjee from Pulo Gag, and three more little liabitations.

Tomoguy is an ifland about two miles round, fhaped like a horfe fhoe ; the hollow being that bay, where I had lately made fo narrow an efcape. On the ifland rifes a hill, which takes up about three-fourths of its compafs ; and on the fide of this hill, which may be a hundred and

fifty

TO NEW GUINEA.

fifty foot high, are plantations of tropical fruits and roots. The hill towards the weft, is rather fteep, the Horfe Shoe bay lying to the eaftward. From the hill I could fee, to the fouthward, many low iflands, of which I took fome notice the day be- fore I came to Tomoguy. I could alfo fee diftant land to the fouthward ; they called it Batanta and Famiay. The ifland Tomoguy lies in latitude 00° 15' S. and longitude 127" 4' E.

CHAP. V.

Sent a Boat to the I/land Salivatty, to purchafe Sago Bread — fi^as vifited by the Synagees of the Country — Had my Houfe robbed — A Corocoro arrives from Batchian with "Tuan Bobo on Boards and another Officer, who bring a letter from the Sultan to Tuan Hadjee — Farther I'ranfadions there — Prepare to depart — Account of the Inha- bitants.

O

N Friday, December the 1 6th, the vefTel haul- ed up and fecured, we were moft of the day employed in wafhing and cleaning her infide, for Mulfulmen are not very cleanly. At high water we hauled her up a little farther. A 11 day it blew frefh from north weft.

On Saturday the 17th, we had ftill frefti north weft winds, with rain. Sent the people to cut wood for burning the coral rocks we had gathered, in

order

64 AVOYAGE

>774' order to make chenam (lime) for mixing with

December. ., , i rr i, /

Oil to be put upon the veliels bottom.

On the 1 8th, frefh north weft winds with rain. Hired a corocoro to go to the ifland of Salwatty, to purchafe fago bread. For this purpofe, I fent red handkerchiefs and various calicoes. Tuan Hadjee writ by the boat to fome of his acquaint- ance there, to affift the commander in his bufmefs.

On Monday the 19th, we had for the firftpart of the day moderate weather, with calms. Afternoon brought hard gales from the N. W. with thunder, lightning, and rain ; a fwell came alfo in, which made the vefTel lie uneafy, and thump.

On Tuefday the 20th, with variable winds and rain, came to vifit me, fome perfons, who Tuan Hadjee faid were Synagees (certain chiefs) of the country. They wore long hair, were Mahome- tans, and held their title from the Sultan of Ti- dore. They behaved civilly, in expedation of prefents, which I made them ; Tuan Hadjee, to whom they paid great refped, telling me it was ne- ceiTary. Two boats arriving, I bought from Papua men, who were in them, fago flour, put up in Cylindrical bafkets, made of the leaves of the tree. Thefe Papua men had their frizzled black locks fticking out a great way from their heads, and were as black as African CofFres.

On Wednefday the 21ft, eafterly winds and calms. This is the firft fair day we have had fince our arrival.

To

T O N E W G U I N E A. 65

Today, came in from Gibby feveral fmall prows or corocoros ; for they call them by either name. I found it was expe(5led I fhould make the mafters fmall prefents, which I thought prudent to do, Tuan Hadjee was much refpeded by them, and loved to do things genteelly, to which I was not averfe.

On 7'hur/dayXht 2 2d, the weather was moderate, but we had at times, feveral very hard fqualls from the N. W. In the night feveral, not all, of the Gibby prows failed. To day we made a new latteen mainfail, and breamed the veffel's bottom, into which I found the worm had juft entered. I purchafed alfo a corocoro, which we fet about fitting up, to aifift us in our intended voyage.

On Friday the 23d, had weflcrly winds, with heavy fqualls and rain in the night.

As I wanted to expedite our bufinefs, and get afloat, I embraced an opportunity when it was fair, to calk the ftarboard fide of the galley, above water. In the night my houfe was robbed of fome ftiirts, and other wearing apparel. My fervant Matthew purfued the thief with a cutlas; but I was not difpleafed he did not catch him : Matthew being a lad of fpirit, there might have been bloodlhed.

On Saturday the 24th, we had N. W. winds, with- frequent fhowers; towards the evening it was calm. While we lay here, we were accom- modated witli fiih (bonettas) and greens, from

F Captain

66 AVOYAGE

De'Ser ^^pt^in Maicca's garden j whence we were fup- plied with pumpkin fprouts, the tops of the fweet potatoe, and brinjals.*

On Sunday the 25th, the winds at W. and W. N. W. employed ourfelves in covering the veiTel with fago leaves.

On Monday the 26th, we had wefterly winds and rain. To day the boat returned from Salv/atty, with three thoufand cakes of fago bread, all in ex- cellent order. Fixed two gunnel planks, fifteen inches broad, the whole length of the velTel. Cap- tain Mareca, who had contradled to do it, cut the planks out of a tree. To day, the thief that robbed me was taken, and brought to Captain Mareca's houfe; but none of the ftolen goods were brought with him. They aflvcd how I would have him punifhed ^ I replied, as the robbery was committed afhore, they might punifh him their own way. The fellow, who was a Papua CofFre, did not feem much afhamed. I fufpeded a trick at the bottom, which made me aware of indulg- ing refentment. I was told they did notliing to him.

On the 27th, the former part of the day we had variable winds, with rain ; the latter part eafterly winds. About noon arrived a corocoro from Bat- chian, with two officers, one of them (Tuan Bobo) the perfon fent to me by the Sultan of Bat-

* A fruit which parboiled, and then roaftcd, cats like an nitichoak.

chian,

T O N E W G U I N E A. 6^

chian, at BifTory harbour, as has been related ; the other called Tuan Aflahan. I faluted them on their landing, with three fwivel guns. They brought a letter from the Sultan to Tuan Hadjee ; but none to me. However they brought me, with the Sultan's compliments, fix bafkets, about fifteen pound each, of excellent fago bread, of a reddifh colour, and fix bafkets of fine rice. The officers told me they had orders from the Sultan of Bat- chian, to accompany me, whitherfoever I thought proper to go, to alfil^ me with every thing in their power, and afterwards to proceed with me back to Balambangan. I kept them to drink tea with me in the evening. The veifel had eighteen men, befides the two officers, with two brafs fwivel guns, and many bows and arrows.

On Pf^ednefday the 28th, we had eaflerly winds, during the former, and north wefl winds, the latter ' part of the day. The Batchian people affilkd me in repairing the veifel.

On 'Thurfday the 29th, north wefl winds began, and eaflerly winds ended the day. Emplo}'ed in finifhing the gunnel planks. Obfcrved the fun's amplitude afhore, and found the variation of the compafs to be one degree eafl.

On Friday the 30tl-i, we had, for the former part, eafterly winds, during the latter, had winds from the N. N. W. with frefh gales. Employed as yeflerday. To day feveral Patany prows ar- rived. About funfet, I v/ent to the top of the hill, and took the bearings of Piamis Peak, as well as of the low flat iflands adjacent. From the F z hUl

68 AVOYAGE

1774- hill I could fee to the fouthward, the diftant land

December. r r- • J t) ^ ^

t ^__, or ramiay and Batanta.

To day, I employed a Papua man to make a wooden anchor; and advanced him a new Pulicat handkerchief, which was to be its price. About an hour after dark, feveral Patany men, lately from Gibby, which illand lies in their way from Patany to Tomoguy, aflfembled at my houfe, and, in a very bold manner, afked me for Betel money. 1 got Tuan Hadjee, and Tuan Buflbra, a man I had engaged to go with me to Tanna Papua, to aiTure them, that I intended to make them hand- fome prefents, they being Synagees of Patany Hook, on Gilolo, and of the ifland Gibby ; that I had made prefents to fome perfons of rank, of Gibby-Monpine, on the ifland Waygiou, who had honoured me with a vifit j and, that if they would come next day, I fhould be glad to fee them. I kept, however, a good watch all night, not much liking the company I had got amongft.

Next day, Saturday the 31 ft, about feven in the morning, I faw the wooden anchor, I had employ- ed the Papua man to make for me, lying on the ground, cut and defaced. I inftantly found out the man, who had got his fhield in his hand, his lance, bows and arrows, and was preparing to fet off in his boat, as on a journey-, atthe fame time,he feemedto be very much difpleafed, and fpoke angri- ly. I took him by the hand,and,pointing to the man- gled anchor, laughed, faying, it would do very v/ell. With much difficuhy, I got him into my houfe, where I appeafed his wrath, and gave him about ten

times

TONEWGUINEA. 69

times its value. Immediately after this, finding the Batchian officers did not come to breakfaft as ufu- al, I went to them. They looked very grave, and had all their people ready as if to launch their co- rocoro, that v/as hauled up, on hearing the anchor carpenter make a noife, which they left me to allay. A little v/hile after this, they came to ray houfe to breakfaft. Some days before, I had prefented liie carpenter's father, whofe boat carried Tuan Hadjee from Gag to Tomoguy, with a half worn fcarlet waiftcoat, and a fathom of new fcarlet broad cloth. The father contributed much to appeafe his fon's wrath ; but, though I never could learn the truth, I fufpedted the man fet on to impofe, or perhaps to pick a quarrel : all that day, therefore, I went with loaded piftols, and kept others armed alfo.

About eleven, A. M. the Patany and Gibby men came to wait on me. I treated them with a difh of tea, and gave each fome tea and fugar candy, put up in paper ; which they accepted with a good grace. I then prefented each of them (about eight in number) with two pieces of Surat, and various other calicoe goods, to the amount of fixty dollars, with which they were fatisfied.

To day we had eafterly winds, the former and latter parts. About noon we had N. N. W. winds and rain. Finiflied the ftarboard fide of the velTel, and paid it with lime, mixed with water, in which certain leaves of trees had been fteeped. This af- ternoon arrived many fmall corocoros from War- jow, which lies on the north eaft part of the ifland Waygiou. On board of them were only Papua

people^

70 AVOYAGE

1774- people, who feemed afraid of coming amongft the \...i*v-w/ Mahometans. I bought from them thirty-fix rolls of fago flour, very reafonable. I alfo purchafed from Captain Mareca an old prow, which I broke up for boards, to lay acrofs the lower beams of the vefTel for the people to fleep on.

1775. On Sunday^ January \\\t ift, 1775, hadnorther-

^^january^^ j^ winds. To day I finifhed caulking the larboard fide of the veffel, and paid it whh lime, mixed with the liquid already mentioned, our oil being done. We w^ere employed alfo in making attops, and covering the veffel with them, being refolved to get afloat as foon as pollible.

On Monday the 2d, we had variable winds. Fi- nifhed covering-the veffel. At three P. M, hauled off, and anchored juft without the reef.

^tie/day the 3d. Got our ftores, &:c. very expe- ditioufly on board, in a fmall new corocoro, I had bought from Tuan Buffora the Molucca man, whom I had engaged to go with me to the coaft of New Guinea. At fix in the evening, hauled far- ther off, then rowed on about a mile, and anchored in twenty-three fathom, muddy ground, in Horfe Shoe Bay.

On Wednejday the 4th, we had light variable winds, with fo heavy rain, as penetrated the new roof of the veffel, it being too flat. To remedy this uncomfortable circumftance, I raifed the mid- dle of it, by driving a few wedges below.

Not liking our road in Horfe Shoe Bay, I rowed on to a land lockt harbour in the eallermoft of the

two

T O N E W G U I N E A. 71

two iflands that are called Ealang Pally. It has '77s- no particular name, but lies about two miles from ^1— v^ Tomoguy. The two Eatchian officers came on board, and went back to Tomoguy in the evening, to look after their corocoro. There came alfo to pay me a vifit a Molucca man, named Abdul Wahead ; who gave me fome information about New Guinea j telling me, he had often gone thi- ther a trading for Haves, and that the people were not fo barbarous as he underftood they had been re- prefcnted to me. I made him a prefent ; upon which he faid, that he would have told me fo be- fore, but never had a fair opportunity, as Tuan Hadjee and the Eatchian officers were conftantly with me ; and he found by their converfation, which he had overheard, that they wanted to per- fuade me not to go thither. This was really the cafe : The Eatchian officers efpecially, prompted, I fuppofe, by Tuan Hadjee, were continually tell- ing me, that the people of New Guinea were fierce and hoftile in their manners, and even faid there were cannibals among them.

On Thurfday the 5lh, we had fair weather. The carpenter's father, who helped to make up the quar- rel I was near having with his fon at Tomoguy, came on board. He prefcnted me with a Loore- quet of beautiful plumage, moftly green and yel- low. Captain Mareca came alfo v/ith two of his fons and three fervants; one of' them a female cook. Likewife came Tuan BulTora. W'c were pretty much crouded. Tuan Hadjee joined, in a corocoro of eighteen feet keel, and eight foot beam, which I had purchafed and fitted up to aflift us in

our

72 A V O Y A G E

'775- our intended voyage. She was manned with four-

January. i

— V— ^ teen people.

Tiian Hadjee, for his encouragement, had one half of her ; and fhe was taken into the Compa- ny's fervice. Such Batchians as chofe to go in her, had pay : fome other failors were fhipped by me. The two Batchian officers came along in their coro- coro, with about twelve people.

We rowed from the land lockt harbour on Lit- tle Batang Pally to Manafouin Bay, where we had once lain, and where I had wifhed to haul afhore. It lies in latitude o° 12' S. and longitude 127° o' E. We lay afloat clofe to the beach without any dan- ger, and employed ourfelves in cutting rattans ; which we found at hand, to fix the outriggers of the corocoros ; the fixtures of thefe embarkations being moftly made with rattans ; but their timbers are tied to a kind of handle made in their plank, with a black ftrong cord, called Gumaty, which a certain palm tree produces, as the coco nut tree produces coir. Of this they alfo make good ropes* At Malacca they manufadture cables of it. At night, a fon of Captain Mareca's, after I had made him fome prefents to engage him to go the voyage, went afhore, and I never faw him more.

Friday the 6th. I named the corocoro, on board of which Tuan Hadjee chofe to remain, (for I durll not order him on board the galley), the Ban- guey ; and the Batchian corocoro, the Borneo. Employed in getting them both ready for fea.

The

TONEWGUINEA. 73

The inhabitants of the fmall part of the Moluc- «77S. ca iflands, I had hitherto feen, were of two forts, s— y-^ viz. the long hair'd Moors, of a copper colour, like Malays in every refped ; and the mopheaded Papuas. Thefe Papuas inhabit not only New Guinea, but the inland parts of moft of the Mo- luccas ; and thofe we faw at Tomoguy came moft- ly from the ifland Waygiou, which lay near it. The Moors had generally in their boats a few Pa- puas as flaves.

The fago bread already mentioned, and which they make delicately at Eatchian, is called by thofe who fpeak Malays, Roti Papua (Papua Bread). They fay the Papuas introduced the art of baking it amongft the Mahometans, who came to the Moluccas from parts farther weft. Many of the Papuas turn Muffulmen, and then cut off their bufhy locks, or at leaft comb them down as ftraight as they can. The perfon who carried Tuan Had- jee from Gag to Tomoguy was a profelyte of this kind, and was called Hujamat, a very civil man. His fon the carpenter was a favage indeed, and wore his bufhy locks.

Many of thofe Synagees who vifited me, were no better than fturdy beggars, and paid great refped to Tuan Hadjee, on account of the pil- grimage he had made. He feemed to court this refpetl, and I was careful always to fupport him in it, as we lived on the beft terms. He had his own fervants to cook for him, and attend him at Captain Mareca's, whilft I lived in an oppofite houfe. We generally drank tea or coffee once a

day

47

VOYAGE

»775' day in company ; though we feldom eat together : «w«v-^ ^nd, upon the whole, I found him (whatever he might be in his heart) perfedly well bred, and a moft agreeable companion.

From the refped fhewn Tuan Hadjce, whole anceftors were of the Serifs that came from Mecca, and gave kings to thofe parts, I could not help remarking the advantage Muflulmen priefts have over others, as defcendants from their great pro- phet (Nabbi) Mahomet. There is fomething ftrik- ing, efpeciaily to the vulgar, in the certainty of a very noble extraction ; and fo far eaft Hadjees were feldom feen. It is perhaps remarkable, that I never met with any Roman millionary in Malay countries.

CHAP. VI.

'The Batchian Officers refufe to proceed to New Gui- nea— Sailed without thfm, but immediately put

hack Converfation with Tuan Hadjee on the

Subje^ i whb agrees to go to the Iflmds off the Coajl of New Guinea^ but not to the Main Land — Account of the IVejl Coaji of PFaygiou^ and of the Straits of Batang Pally — Sailed for the Iflands of

Yowl — Paffed Ruib and Pulo Een Arrived at

Offak Harbour, on the North Coajl of JVaygiou.

B

EING all ready for'fea, in the evening of the 6th of January, Tuan AiTahan came on board, and afked me whither I was going -, I told him to Tan-

na

TO NEW GUINEA. 75

na Papua, and thence to Balambanean. He faid, »775-

* January

very ferioiifly, as that was the cafe, he could not go with me. I told him, he might do as he pleafed ; but that he (hould not have promifed to go. Wc then patted.

Saturday the 7th. In the morning I fired a gun as a fignal for failing. When I had got under way, the other corocoro being left at anchor, the Banguey approached, and one Mapalla, (fon to a head man of Ceram) who belonged to her, cried out, that if the Batchian officers did not go with me, he would not. This man had been fpared to me by thofe officers, and was upon wages. By way of anfwer to what he faid, I afked, where his commander Tuan Hadjee was, as I did not fee him ? Mapalla anfvvered, he was fick. On this I faid no more, but immediately fufpecfted him of being the fecret caufe of what had happened, as alfo of the defection of the Batchian officers related yefterday. I therefore inikntly put about, being only half a mile from our former birth, and an- chored clofe to the Borneo corocoro, on board of which the two Batchian officers had remained.

When we had got to an anchor, Tuan Hadjee came on board and breakfafted with me. Whillt at breakfaft, I flightly mentioned the Batchian officers having failed in their promife ; but I was very cautious of touching upon what had happen- ed that morning, waving whatever might be im- puted to him, and rather laying it on the Batchian officers, to whom, I faid, we were certainly obliged, for fo far afiifiing us in repairing our veiTei v

but.

January.

76 AVOYAGE

177$. but, as for going with us to New Guinea, it was what I had no right to exped. The contents of the Suhan of Eatchian's letter to him, he always told me, were, that his officers and corocoro fhould accompany me whitherfoever I went, and that he (Tuan Hadjee) was to inforce thefe orders. But, replied he, what can I do, if they will not obey ? Soon after he fent a boat alongfide, as if to put on board his baggage -, but his fervant carried her back towards the fhore ; where afterwards feeing that fervant, I bid him alk his mafter, if he intend- ed to put his baggage on board ; to which the man gave me no anfwer.

I really expetled, from the reludance Tuan Hadjee and the Batchian officers had lately fhewn of proceeding to New Guinea, that matters would turn out as they did : I was therefore on my guard, and that afternoon had a long converfation with Tuan Hadjee about our voyage, in order to found him. The feeming indifference which I put on at what happened, led him, I believe, to imagine he might have every thing his own way ; and on his hinting that we had come a great diftance, and, were we to return, it might not be amifs ; at the fame time, politely acknowledging, that I was commander, Sec. I faid, that I dropt all thoughts of going to Tanna Papua, but begged of him to ac- company me to fome of the iilands that lie to the N. E of Waygiou, near which we were, and about which he had talked fo much at Balam- bangan ; in order that we might have at leali fomething to fay on our return. This pleafed him, and he confented with a good grace. But before

I proceed^

T O N E W G U I N E A. 77

I proceed, it may not be improper to fay fome- >n5- thing of the iflands on the weft fide of Wayglou. ^— v— -

On the weft fide of Waygiou is a pretty deep bay, before which fie many fmall low iflands called Ranfawar, Efnowan, Binfi, Gopi, Kubbon, Waftib, Wafwa, Wafagy, Tapopo, and Piapis. Thefe are low flat, and covered with trees to the water's edge, as moft Malay iflands are, Ranfawar and Piapis excepted. The largeft of them may not be above a mile and a half, fome only half a mile round. I have already faid Tomoguy has a hill about a hundred and fifty feet high. On an ifland three miles E. N. E. of Tomoguy, called Ranfawar, already mentioned, is a hill rather high- er. Thefe iflands keeping off the weft ward fwell, muft make fmooth water within them, on the coaft of Waygiou, where I am told are fome harbours; but I did not vifit them, nor quit the ifland Tomo- guy, whilft repairing there, above half an hour at a time, and that only twice. Therefore I can give no account of thefe harbours, and have laid down in the chart, only the bearings of the iflands, from Tomoguy hill, with their computed dif- tanccs.

Tomoguy lies near the two iflands of Batang Pally, which are of middling height, and about eighteen miles in compafs, reckoning round them both. They form the ftrait, in which is the har- bour of Manafuin, where we lay. The ftrait may be called one continued harbour, four miles long, with mud foundings throughout. Here are fome ipots of coral rocks : but they give fair warning,

ftiowing

78 AVOYAGE

'775' Ihowinsr themfelves by their brisht colour at high

January. cj .

»— -V-— ' water, and at low water being dry.

On the northern extremity of the weftermoft Eatang Pally, is a flat table land. Near the other Batang Pally lies the fmall flat ifland of Waglol ; between which and the larger illand is a fafe and fhort palfage, with good foundings. At Waglol, lives a Synagee, who honoured me with a vifit, while the velTcl was repairing at Tomoguy, and begged a prefent like the reft. One half of his coat and long drawers was clouded red, white, and yellow ; the other half blue, white, and green clouded alro, not unlike the whimfical drelTes of mafquerades -, his turban made of coarfe white calicoe was pinked. The Mahometan inhabitants of the Molucca iflands, are much given to cloud the Indoftan calicoes with many colours. Several Molucca men having touched at Tomoguy, I ob- ferved not only their turbans, but even their coats clouded and pinked in this manner.

I was told that, eaft of Gilolo, were no horfes, no horned cattle or fheep •, I faw only a very few goats at Tomoguy. On the adjacent iflands are many wild hogs, of which the Papua people who fold me fago, brought me at times, fome pieces dry roafted at a flow fire. On thefe alfo are fome deer. At Tomoguy I bought three of the large crowned pigeons, very well reprefented by Dam- pier. The Molucca people call them Mulutu, and the Papuas Manipi. My pigeons grew tame, and eat Indian corn, called Jaggon. They flrike hard with their wings, on which is a kind of horn. One of the three efcaped at Dory harbour, the other two

1 carried

TO NEW GUINEA.

79

I carried to Mindano, where they died. Some 1775- Papua people brought me land crabs, Iliaped like J^"""^" lobfters -, their claws exadly the fame, but much flronger ; and their bodies not (o large ; they are called Oodang. I was told they climb trees, and cat the fruit.

Whilft I lay at Tomoguy, Captain Mareca was breaking fugar canes, by putting them in a prefs, and driving wedges. The juice thus extratled is boiled into a fyrup for ufe. I filled a liquor cafe with the juice, which in a little time became good vinegar. The Mahometans here, live moftly upon fifh and fago bread. Sometimes they mix a co- co nut rafped down, with the fago fbur -, and, putting this into a thin Chinefe iron pan, they keep llirring the mixture on the fire, and eat it warm. I have alfo feen, not only the Mahometans, but Papua men, eat the ordinary white fwallo (Eiche de Mer) which is found almoft every where in the fand at low water. They eat it raw, cut up fmall, and mixed with fait and lime juice.

I faw here a peculiar way of drawing blood ; they put the rough fide of a certain leaf, about as large as a man's hand, on that part whence they want to extraci blood ; then, with the tongue, they lick the upper fide of the leaf, and the under fide is prefently all over bloody.

Here grows a particular kind of green fruit, which they eat with the areka nut, as they do the betel leaf in Indoftan: it is as long as the hollow- part of a quill, and almoft as fmall : they call it,

as

8o AVOYAGE

, »77S- as the Malays call the betel leaf, Ciry. This fruit

January. . j . n \ ■ r

<— y— ^ IS very good in a curry or new, having a fine aro- matic flavour. Tomoguy lies in latitude 00° 20' S. and longitude 127° 10' E. But to return to our voyage.

After I had, as before related, agreed with Tuan Hadjee, that I would not proceed to New Guinea, and that, after vifiting the illands of Aiou and Fan, (which I underftood lay to the N. E. of Waygiou, the former in fight of it) I would return to Balam- bangan, the two Eatchian officers came very frankly to fup with me, and faid they would go very wil- lingly to the iflands that lie off New Guinea, but not to the main land. I told them I did not mean to go to the continent ; on which we parted, they promifing to have every thing ready to fail in the morning.

Saturday the 8th. At break of day, fired a gun, as a fignal for failing ; got under way, and rowed through the ftrait between Batang Pally and Waglol, where we found good foundings. This ftrait is about half a mile broad at the narroweft part. We had light and variable winds from the fouth and fouth eaft, Iteering north call, along the north weft part of Waygiou. About noon came on board a canoe with fix people, who had long hair, were drelTed like Malays, and all fpoke the Malay tongue. They belonged to a Dutch Chi- nefe floop, then in harbour, at a place called llkalio ; where is a deep ftrait (I was told^ that divides the ifland of Waygiou : the houfes of llkalio being vifible with a glafs. They converfed

much

T O N E W G U I N E A. 8i

much with Captain Mareca -, and at going away '775- left him fome Cocaya mats, as a prefent. I fuf- ^— v-— pedled they were very curious and inquifitive with him, though they afked me no queftions. 1 fliowed them, however, all manner of civility : but to in- timate that I was not alone, the Banguey corocoro, in which Tuan Hadjee was, being then about a league to windward, I made a fignal to fpeak with her; which fhe inftantly obferved, by bearing down. Tuan Hadjee had then fome little conver- fation with the people in the canoe.

We left to the northward the iiland Ruib, which confifts of one high hill, not peaked, and is higher than the cock's comb of Gibby Monpine. The diftance of Ruib from Waygiou, may be about fix leagues. Ten fmall iflands, five pretty high, and five fliaped like buttons, lie in the ftraits : I left them to the northward. In pafling thofe ftraits, between Waygiou and Ruib, I could get no foundings. We faw alfo an ifland, with a table land upon it, bearing about N. N. E. it is called Pulo Een, or Fifh Ifland -, and lies to the eaftward of Ruib. Every ifland in thofe flraits feemed to be Heep. I kept fome times within half a league of the iiland Waygiou, and found Itrong tides, with a great fwell : the coafi: of Waygiou appeared likewlfe to be bold. Ruib lies in la^tude 00° 15' N. longitude 127'^ 10' E. In the different views I have given of Ruib and Pulo Een, they cannot but be known. At funfet, the extreme part of the coaft of Vv^aygiou boie E. by S.

On Mondiy the g{\ had but little v/ind all night, the current fet U5 to the eaftward. In the morn-

G iUOr

82 AVOYAGE

'775- ine Ruib bore weft half fouth, feveii leagues :

January. ^ , ' .^

T_ ^m ,t round we had palled, in the night, feveral iflands fhaped Hke buttons, near the coaft of Waygiou.

In the morning we faw an ifland of middling height, flat atop -, or rather like the flat of a plate turned bottom up,* It bore eaft by north, half north. "We alfo faw a remarkable peak like a buffalo's horn, upon the ifland Waygiou, about a league in-land.

In the evening we had the mouth of a good looking harbour open : it is called Offak. The peak or horn above mentioned, then bore S. S. E. The wind immediately came round to the eaft- ward, and it looked very gloomy to the north- ward ; which, however, came to nothing.

On Tuefday the loth, lay to moft part of the night ; fired a gun, and fliowed feveral lights for the corocoros. In tlie morning, faw them both to the weftward \ ftood on to the eaftward, all three in company, until P. M. The wind coming then from the eaft and north eaft, we bore away for the harbour Offak, and got into it by five o'clock -, about funfet had a great deal of rain. I am of opinion theie is much rain on this ifland ; for the hills are not exceeding high, but are above what may be called middling height ; and the clouds, as they pafs, often break, and diflblve into rain.

IVednefday the 1 1 th. Employed in fitting our com.moodies, which did not move well j alfo com- pleated our water. We fent our boat to fifli at

* Manouaran.

the

T O N E W G U I N E A. B3

the mouth of the harbour. She foon returned with ■775- nine bonettas. The people feemed all very well v— y— *i/ contented. Among the Batchian people, were four perfons, whom I called Manteries, by way of civility and diftindiion : they belonged to cer- tain head men on the ifland Ceram, who really had the title of Mantery ; and Ceram was under Batchian. I thought proper to keep thofe perfons in good humour, as well as Tuan Bobo and Tuan Aflahan ; therefore, I promifed each of them a coat of Europe broad cloth.

CHAP. VII.

Defcriptioji of the North Coaji of IVaygiou, and of the Harbour of Offak — Faffed Manouaran — Ar- rived at the IJlands of Toivl — Account of them — Sailed for the IJlands of Fan — A Gale, in which ive were feparated from the two Corocoros — Ob- liged to bear away — Arrived at Dory Harbour on the Coajl of New Guinea — Some Account of the Papuas there — Directions to get into the Harbour — ConjeClures about Schouten's Ifland.

Jt\S I had the fatisfadlion of finding all the people contented and in good humour, I took the opportunity of vifiting and furveying part of this fpacious harbour, whilft others were occupied, as I have faid, in fixing our rudders. At the fame time I employed four ovens on fhore, in baking bread from the fago flour, which I had bought at G 2 Tomoguy,

34 A V O Y A G E

January ToiTioguy, in ordcF to fave our fea ftock, confin- ing of three thoufand bifcuits, which I had got from Salwatty. Thefe bifcuits were hard;, being well baked y and few from that ftore had been ufed. The view of fome of the hills on the left hand, going into Offak harbour, is not only pic- turefque from without, but from within the har- bour, as they are not overloaded with wood. On the contrary, there were many clear fpots covered with grafs ; and fome appearing barren, even gave pleafure, as they promifed eafe in travelling that way : for it is almoft univerfally the cafe in Malay countries, that too much wood, or too much long, grafe, called Lalang, and fometimes tall reeds, &c. difappoint the traveller : he cannot walk on, far Itefs gain a fummit, not very diftant, or fo much as^ the brow of a hill, which, feen from on board his vefTel, perhaps appears clofe by. Several groves pointed out to me, were, I was told, fago trees : but, as I ftaid only one day, I had not time to make any excurfion. I was alfo told that the Papuar inhabitants hereabouts, often lurked in fecret places, and fhot arrows at the unwary traveller ; but, this- my people polfibly faid to indulge their own lazi- nefs, or perhaps their timidity.

The north coai^ of the ifiand Waygiou is about fifteen leagues in length, from that fmail ifland on the north weft extremity, and juft under the line, to Rawak ifland and harbour, on the north eaft part of the ifland. The hill on Gibby Monpine, (a particular quarter of Waygiou) which I call the Cock's Comb, from its fliape, may be feen about tweaty leagues off, and is not quite fo high as

Ruib.

TO NEW GUINEA. 85

Ruib. Some white fpots appear on it, as has been j,'JJ/,y, faid. Going along the coaft, abreaft of, and near ^-'-y-^ to Piapis harbour, (which fhall be hereafter de- fcribed) we perceived a remarkable hill ; I call it the Firft Peak -, and, confidering it as a cone, the angle at its vertex is a right angle. Farther on, about five leagues, is juft fuch another hill : the angle of its top is alfo nearly a right angle ; and it is the fame in ftiape, which is that of a fugar loaf, though fomewhat higher than the Firft Peak : I call this laft the Second Peak. It is abreaft of a fmall ifland, which, from its fhape, I name the Shoe. Onward, in an eaft diredion about three leagues, rifes a very remarkable peak, which f call the Third Peak, or Buffalo's Horn. In fome attitudes its top is blunt and rounding ; in others, fharp and pointed : yet it is moflly covered with trees, and is very fteep.

Coming from the northward, the voyager muft ■defcry one of thefe three peeks. The middle one, as I have faid, is higher than the firft ; it is alfo fomewhat higher than the third, and may be feen above twenty leagues off.

To go into OfTak harbour, from the ealtward, you pafs a pyramidical naked rock, within half a mile of the entrance on the left. The entrance 16 bold, and half a mile wide, with twenty fathom mud foundings in mid chajinel. In the entrance, you leave on the left, two iflets, each no larger than a houfe : the larger has bufties atop, and around both are breakers, A little farther is ano- ther illet, that joins vifibly to the main, by a reef .

of

86 AVOYAGE

'775- of rocks. It will be neceffary to eive all thefe a

January. _ - ~

— , — * reafonable birth, as well as the point on the left. When you have palTed this point, on which is three fathom water, you find a fandy bay ftill on the left, with a ftream of frefli water, where you may anchor in twelve fathom fand. From the entrance into the harbour, the third peak, or buf- falo's horn, bears fouth half weft, about three miles in-land.

Oppofite to, or almoit fouth from the entrance, are two little iflands, one fhaped like a fugar loaf, the other with a hilloc on it. At the bottom of this hilloc is a pond of frefh water, and behind, or clofe to the iflet, is water five or fix fathom deep. This would be a good place for a fhip to heave down. The two iflands are Joined by a reef of coral rocks dry at low water.

On the eaft and weft, the harbour goes far into the ifland of Waygiou ^ but, as I have been told, the weft bay goes farther. At the bottom of it, is faid to be a fmall neck, or carrying place, over which canoes may be eafily tranfported into a large lake,* where are many iilands. On the largeft refides a great Rajah : all over it are foundings, and it communicates with the fea at the fouth part of the iQand. Captain Mareca told me there were about 100,000 inhabitants upon the ifland, that they were continually at war with one another, and that it might be aboui forty leagues round. Oftak lies in latitude 00" 10' N. longitude 127^ 44'.

"^ This may be ths deepbny; that in the charts Is laid down on th'j fouth lidc or the illmd.

I'hiirfda^

T O N E W G U I N E A. 87

Thurfday the 1 2th. Got under way before dawn, ^llll'^.^ having fiift fired a gun, as a fignal to the tv/o co- ' — v*- rocoros, which did not immediately follow : at feven in the morning, being then a good way from the harbour's mouth, we faw them in-lhore. About noon had very frefh gales at N. N. W. fteered E. N. E. and pafled Manouaran, an ifland of middling height. We foon after difcovered t^ie higheft and largeft of the iilands Aiou. It is called by way of dilVindion, I fuppofe, Aiou Baba, Father Aiou ; and bears from Manouaran, N. E. by N. eight leagues.

We had fine weather all night. The Borneo corocoro kept far ahead.

Friday the 13th, at funrife, could fee the high mountains of New Guinea : I inclined much to fieer for them ; but durll not, as I knew Tuan Hadjee would not confent.

We had fine weather until about eight A. M. it then began to rain, and the wind came to the eaftward. Steering for the largeft of the Aious, I found a reef run weft of it fix or fcven miles.

The Borneo corocoro, in which was one of the Batcbian officers, got over the reef, and fent us a boat with eight Coffres and a pilot, who wtis aUb a Papua Coffre. After lying by, until the .tide ferved, he carried us over the edge of the reef, in one and a half fathom coral rocks 9 and then we had barely one fathom. Immediately wc came into a lijrge found of five, four, three, and two

fathom

83 AVOYAGE

,'775- fathom clear fand, with foots of rocks here and

January. ' »

- — V — ■' there. Anchored in one and a half fathom, at low water (clean fand) within a fhort mile of the fhore. Befide the pilorboat, came two others to tow us in, the wind being againft us : for we went over the edge of the reef at leafi; four miles to the weft* ward of Aiou Baba.

Saturday the 14th. Had in the morning much rain ; notwithftanding which, the three head men of thofe illands, failed the Moodo, the Synagee and the Kymalaha, came on board about eight, in a large corocoro, with fix banks of paddles, three banks of a fide. They were Papua men, and prefented me with feveral birds of paradife, which they had got from New Guinea : in return, ! gave each fomc calicoes. I faluted them, when they went away, with one gun, which they rcr tumed.

A fifherman, amongft various fifh, brought me two, of which the heads were remarkable, by a horn that projefted from between their eyes. The horn was about four inches long, equal in length to the head. Altogether, the head was that of a unicorn : the people called it Een Raw, that is, the fifh Raw. The Ikin was black> and the body might be twenty inches long ; its tail was armed with two ftrong fcythes on each fide, with their points forward.*

* Mr. Banks found the {anie kind of firti on the coaft of New Holland, of which he did me the favour to fliow me a print — I preferved the heads of my two filli i they are now in the Mufeum of Charles Boddam, tfquirc.

Qn

TONEWGUINEA. Sg

On Sunday the i <th, went round Aiou Baba in *775-

r- •! January.

the pilot's boat» and found it about five miles in compafs. Coming back, I went to the little harbour, where the Moodo, the Synagee, and Kymalaha lived ; finding it very fiiug for velTels of fix foot water, I chofe, however, to lie in the fmooth road without. To day Tuan Hadjee vifited the Moodo. On my return from the circuit of the iiland, I found him finely dreifed, with a number of attendants. Perceiving he had been on a vifit of ceremony, I regretted he had not fignified hi§ intention, that I might have given orders for the proper falute on his going aftiore, which he took in very good part.

Monday the 1 6th, fair weather for the firft part of the day, but much rain in the afternoon. About brcakfaft time the Moodo paid me a vifit, accompanied by two of his wives, who, I learned, had been taken at Amblou, a Dutch fettlement, on an ifland near Amboyna, by the Papua people. Both had long black hair, and were of the Malay colour j whereas every one I faw here, men and women, were CofFres. By one of thefe female captives, the Moodo had a little boy, who came along with them. The corocoro that brought them on board, was not near fo large as that in which the Moodo came to make his firft vifit. The mother of the boy had a fettled melancholy in her countenance ; fhe fpoke good Malays, and was cheared by the fight of Europeans. The other captive feemed more reconciled to her condition. I treated them with tea, and gave them a little to carry afhore

with

go

VOYAGE

■77S- with them : alfo fome fugar candy, for which they

January. ' O . .

i — V— -^ were very thankful. I made them likewife pre- fents of cahcoes.

In the evening, my mate, being ill of an inter- mitting fever, went afhore to the Moodo's houfe : the Serang * being fick, had been the day before conveyed thither. To day I fent to the woods, whence I had a new foremaft, and made a wood- en anchor.

I was curious to enquire how fuch a perfon as the Moodo, who was under the king of Tidore, and had little power of his own, durll venture to purchafe the fubjeds of the Dutch. I was an- fwered that here people did not mind the Dutch, as they were for away -, but, whenever the Dutch threatened vengeance to any Papua chiefs, and fent to take off" their heads, they, on fuch occafi- ons, to reprefent the chief, ckeft up a flave, who, being really executed, (o far deceived the gover- nor of Ternate,

On Tuefday the 1 7th, wefterly winds with fome rain, until afternoon ; then N. E. winds, with much lain. Notwithftanding it blew frefh, I lay fmooth : for the huge fea, v/ithout, broke its violence on tlie edge of the reef, with which this clufter of illands is furrounded. Hov/ever, I became fenfible when it was high water, by the veflel's pitching a little : at low water the fea was perfectly fmooth, the depth nine foot. A rifing and fetting moon makes high water, and tlie fpring tides rife five foot.

* Serang, boatAvain.

The

T O N E W G U I N E A. ^r

The Papua people, in their boats, continued ^[Hf^j, to bring us abundance of excellent fifh ; alfo tur- *— v — • tie, which my Mahometans would not eat ; but they ate the eggs. The natives had a way of fluf- fing the guts of the turtle, with the yolks of its eggs. So filled, they rolled it up in a fpiral form, and roafled it, or rather dried it over a flow fire ; it proved then a long faufage. They alfo brought us limes, and fmall lemons. We found near the Moodo's houfe, the green, called by the Malays Aflimum. It is about an inch and half long, and a quarter of an inch broad ; it breaks fliort, be- ing thick ; and has a talt tafte, when ate raw. It becomes very palatable with oil and vinegar, prov- ing alfo very good boiled. This green fprings abundant in the Soolco Archipelago, on fmall iflands, at high water mark.

Wednejday the i8th. Fine weather: our people in the boat caught much fine fifli in the night.

On Thurfday the 19th, went to the ifland of Abdon, accompanied by the Moodo and the Syna- gee : found it lie 00° 36' north latitude: we re- turned at night. Abdon I difcovered to be about three miles round, and about two hundred foot high. Konibar may be about the fame height, and fize : it lies north of Abdon. The reft of the fixteen iflands, that form this clufter, are flat and low, except Aiou Baba, near which we lay, and which rifes about five hundred foot. On Ko- nibar, are faid to be plantations of yams, potatoes, fugar canes, and other tropical produdions. On the ifland Abdon, I was in a rude plantation of

papa

9a AVOYAGE

1775- papa trees, lime trees, and chili or cayenne pep- £!!!^^ZJ per : the foil was rich, as it is alfo on Aiou Eaba. Near the little harbour, where the Moodo's houfe ftands, the foil is fandy and low ; and about two hundred yards from his houfe, is a pond of frefh water. But the three illands of Aiou Baba, Ab- don, and Konibar, are too thinly inhabited to pro- duce much, though almoR every thing would grow upon them. The Papua inhabitants have fifh and turtle in fuch abundance, that they negledt agri- culture. When they v/ant bread, they carry live turtle, and faufages made of their eggs, dried fifh, &c. to Waygiou, v/here, in the harbours of Rawak, OfFak, Warjow, &c. they truck for fago, either haked or raw ; nay, perhaps go to the woods and provide themfelves, by cutting down the trees. On thefe voyages, tliey often carry their wives and families. They bring tortoife fhell and fwallo, to fell to the Chinefe, who trade here in floops, that muft always be furniflied with Dutch paffes, many Chinefe being fettled at Ternate and Amboyna.

Friday the 20th. Frefh gales at N. W. until the afternoon : then variable winds, and more mode- rate weather. Went in a boat to found the near- eft pafifage out, it being the eaftermoft, and v/ithin two miles of Aiou Baba. I found it much better than thfe channel, by which we entered ; fixed a pole in the fand as a beacon. In the night we ha4 frefli gales and fqualls from the N. E. quarter.

Saturday the 2.1ft, much rain. The pilot came on board, but, as the weather looked bad, and I did not choofe to move, he went aQiorc again.

Id

TO NEW GUINEA.

In the night the wind was at N. W. with frequent ^'J^J^^ fqualls.

Sunday the 2 2d, moderate weather. The pilot returned on board ; alfo Mr. Baxter, and the Se- rang, who had been kindly treated afhore, for fome trifling prefents to the Moodo. The Kymalaha came likewife, and allifted us very readily with a boat, and people, in towing the veiiel over the reef, at the near, or fmall pafTage. I gave out that I was going in fearch of the illands of Fan, which I was informed lay about twelve hours fail to the N. E. of where we were. I difmifled Captain Mareca, and his three fervants : he feemed very glad to get back to his family, efpecially as I re- warded him with ten bars of iron, and various piece goods. Tl^e reafon I parted with him was, I had bought from the Moodo, a Mulatto, who fpoke Malay and the Papua tongue : lie was call- ed Mapia. I fufpedled alfo a jealoufy between Mareca and Tuan Hadjee, who, immediately on tlie captain's leaving the galley, came on board with his baggage. About lialf an hour paft eight in the morning, we got over the reef; and found twenty-five fathom water, fandy ground, not above half a cable's length from it. At parting, I prefented to the Moodo a pocket compafs, with three bars of iron, and one to the Kymalaha. I gave another pocket compafs to the pilot, and one bar of iron. When I told the ^k>odo and others, that I was bound for the iflands Fan, they furmifed (as I was told), that we were going thi- ther in the view of catching certain yellow co- loured people with long haiy> who relbrt frequently

to

S4

A VOYAGE

January

mil ^° ^^^ ^°"^ ^^^^^ iflands farther north for turtle,- poflibly from the iflands named Palaos, * in 50° N. latitude ; amongft ourfelves we called them Ma- pia, which fignilies good, in the Magindano tongue.

The reef that furrounds thefe iflands is about fifty miles in compafs, divided by a deep ilrait one mile broad, and about five long, into two parts. The fmaller part inclofes the ifland of Aiou Baba, v/hich is the largeft of them all, and is high, with the fmall iflands Popy and Mof The larger reef inclofes the iflands of Abdon and Konibar, which are pretty high, and the low iflands of Mufl^ekan, Sebemuky, Capamuky, Rutny, Rai- ny, Popy, Cafoly, Yowry, and three fmall iflands called Wirifoy. A deep found is faid to be on the N. W. fide of the larger reef. Vifiting Ab- don, I paflfed over fmooth water in this found eight and ten fathom deep ; and from this found the Moodo, who accompanied me when I vifited it, aflured me, there was a good egrefs to the open fea ; but I had no opportunity of examining ij, ftnd went only where the depth is marked. Amidft thefe foundings, I frequently found little fpots of coral rocks, fi:eep, even with the water's edge. From a little height upon Abdon, I could not fee the fartheft iflands called Wirifoy : fo they are put down only by report : all the other iflands I faw, Aiou Baba lies in latitude 00° 32' N. longitude 128'' 25'.

* Harris's Vovages, vol. 1. p. 691.

If

T O N E, W G U I N E A. g^

If it be true that there is an entrance into this ,'775'

January.

found, which, as I have faid, has a good depth, ' — v — ' (hips might he there very fecure, and the fituation mull be health3^ They would find plenty of turtle and fifh, and fome tropical fruits. Water is alfo to be got, I am told, by digging even on the low iflands : but Waygiou being fo near, where are many good harbours, it would perhaps be more eligible to go thither ; though, in point of health, Waygiou, being fubje6l to frequent rains, cannot compare with the ifiands Aiou.

Having got over the reef, and taken leave of our Papua friends, who had behaved exceeding civilly, I fteered along the fouth edge of it. About noon, the Banguey corocoro keeping rather too near the reef, I fired a gun, and made her fignal. Wc then proceeded all three together, Iteering N. N. E. wind at W. N. W. At funfet, the ifland Abdon bore weft, five or fix leagues, ; the current fet eaftward. Lay to beft part of the night, fee- ing neither of the corocoros. It blew l"uird frqm N. W. which caufed a great fea.

Monday the 2,3d. In the morning Pulo Way- giou bore S. S. W. and the iflands of Aiou were out of fight. About eight in tire morning, the Borneo corocoro (in which was Tuan Bobo, one of the Batchian officers, the other Tuan Affa- han, being on board the galley) made, by firing a gun, a fignal of diflrefs. I found flie had carried away her commoody or rudder. Luckily pro- vided with two, a large and a fmall, I fpared her tlie latter, and with difficulty got it conveyed by a

rope,

96 AVOYAGE

•y??- rope, as there was a great fea. At noon I fotind

"--i^^^JX— * myfelf in the latitude of oo' 52' N.

On obferving the diftrefs of one of the coroco- ros, I had put about and fteered S. W. with the wind at N. W. willing, if poffible, to regain Way- giou ; which, however, I did not expe(ft ; though Tuan Hadjee, feeing it right ahead, thought other-* wife. At fix, P. M. it blowing very frefh, the veflel fprang a leak, and near three foot water got into her hold, before we could gain on her. We ftarted water, and hove overboard whatever came to hand ; fago, firewood, and our cooking place j alfo a great many iron hoops : in doing of which, I cut my right hand, being in a hurry, while the black people ftood aghaft. My two Europeans were incef- fantly employed in baling over each gunnel, and both the corocoros were in fight, and near us., At laft, in about an hour and a half, we began to gain, but kept one man conftantly baling all night, as the veflel continued leaky. So I kept her fome- times before the fea, and fometimes lay to, as fuit- ed bed her eafe.

Tuefday the 24th. In the morning the gale had much abated, but, to my great concern, had driven out of fight both corocoros. I could fee Waygiou bearing weft, about fourteen leagues : at the fame time, I could difcover the high mountains of New Guinea.

I told Tuan Hadjee, there was an abfolute ne- cefiity to bear away for Dory harbour on the coaft of New Guinea ; to which he made no objecflicn.

So

T O N E W G U I N E A, 97

3o we fleered S. E. and E. S. E. for the ifland of »y7S- Myfory, * to the fouthward of which, Tuan Had- .j,"""/;. jee told me, the Harbour of Dory lay. At noon we could juft fee Waygiou, from which I reckoned myfelf above one degree eaft. We could alfo fee the Cape of Good Hope : it bore E. S. E. about twelve leagues from us, then in 00" 1 3' N. lati- tude, which lays the Cape nearly under the line.

At funfet, the Cape bore E. S. E. four leagues. We were then about feven miles from the neareft fhore, and it clearing up weftward, I had fight of two flat iflands, which Tuan Hadjee told me were called Mifpalu : they bore well, and were about five leagues diftant. During the night the wea- ther was moderate, with the wind a little off" fliore. This part of the coaft of New Guinea, joining on the weft of the Cape of Good Hope, confifls of two, fometimes three, ranges of very high hills, one behind the other. About midnight we doubled the Cape.

JVednefday the 25th. In the morning the Cape of Good Hope bore W. N. W. half N. itstvi leagues, being then about feven miles off" fliore. I perceived many clear fpots on the hills which were neareft the fliore, with afcending fmoke. Tuan Hadjee told me, thefe were the plantations of the Haraforas f . At three in the afternoon we

* Which, by Tuan Hadjee's defcrlption, I took to be Schou- ten's ifland.

f People who live in land, and cultivate the ground

H could

1775-

^S A V O Y A G E

January, could difccm the Cape of Good Hope to the weft- ward, bearing W. by N. half N. and a certain bluff land to the eaftward, bearing on the oppofite point of the compafs E. by S. half S. we happening at that inftant to be exactly on the rhumb line that went between them. I then took the Cape to be ten- leagues, and the Bluff Land feven leagues dii\ant. Immediately after, I faw land of middling height appearing like an ifland, bearing E. by S, I con- cluded this was Schouten's ifland. Tuan Hadjee alferting that it was, and that to gain Dory harbour we muft fleer round the farementioned Bluff Land ; but, luckily, before night, I perceived the land I took to be Schouten's illand, to be part of the main land of New Guinea; that the Bluff Head already mentioned was a hill refembling a bee-hive, and that it joined to the land I have er- roneoufly called Schouten's ifland, by a low neck covered with trees of equal height, excepting one clump in the middle of the neck, which is higher than the reft. This low neck not being feen when the land without it firft appeared, made me the rather believe it ta be Schouten's ifland, and fo far confirmed the miftake v but, on finding i^, I hauled off. The wind then freOiening, I lay to fome hours, left I fhould overflioot the harbour of Dory. Many years hadpaffed fmce Tuan Hadjee had been there : I was therefore not (lirprized at his having been miftaken.

In the morning, faw a flat point of land bearing S. E. fix leagues. Found the extremity of the land mentioned yefterday at Schouten's ifland, but which was the land cf Dory, to bear E. by N. half N.

from

T O N E W G U I N E A. 99

from the hill I have called the Bee-hive : fo that januVry. the neck of land, with the low trees and the '■ — ^-*- clump of trees upon it, already mentioned, form a bay. Steered E. S. E. for a little low ifland like a bonnet, clofe to the (hore. About noon, it blowing hard, and there being a great fea, when we had run about twelve leagues from morning, we hauled in round this ifland, leaving it to the right. When it bore S. S. W. within lefs than piftol (hot, we had fourteen fathom water, fandy ground. It is called Yowry. We anchored be- hind it in three and a half fathom water, with a wooden anchor, and made a rope faft to the. fhore of the ifland. We lay pretty fmooth. At night, let go our iron grapnel, and Coon after parted from our wooden anchor, the cable being cut by the rocks.

I believe this to be a very good harbour farther in ; but I had no opportunity to examine, as, it blowing very frefh, I did not go alhore. I ob- ferveda reef of rocks from the main land, project- ed fo far, as to overlap (if I may fo fay) the paA fage to the north weft of the ifland Yowry ; and no fwell came in that way, except a little at high water.

Tuan Hadjee, Tuan BafTora, and Tuan AiTa- han, went diredly afliore ; the firft was extremely afFedled with the bad weather, and faid very little. Tuan Affahan was a fmart feaman, and had been very ufeful in the late gale. Coming along this coaft, within four miles of the fhore, I would have often founded ; but durft not bring the veffel to. In rolling before the fea, I found the projecfting H 2 gallery

100 A V O Y A G E

/77J- gallery of orreat ufe : for, when it took the water^

January. . ^ ,

It buoyed the veffcl up like an outrigger. We fhipped water ov^er the gunnel feveral times. On this little ifland Tuan Buflbra found a nut- meg tree, which, however, had no fruit. The iHand Yowry may be about three quarters of a mile in compafs. Latitude 00° 15' S, longitude 130° 43' E,

Friday the 27th. At eight in the morning weigh- ed, and ftood along fhore, about E. by S. the coaft lying nearly E. S. E. the wind ftill at N. W. blowing frefh. A flat point, like that mentioned yefterday, lies about fix or feven leagues from the ifland Yowry, in an E. S. E. diredion : when we got abreaft of it, I found the bay of Dory open v and another flat point bore from it S. by E. about five leagues, the bay being between. Here the wind moderated a little. The veffel got into what I imagined to be a ground fwell, and the fea had like to have pooped us ; but we prefently got out of it, hauling round into the bay. About noon came to an anchor, in a fandy bay, clofe to the land, well flieltered from the north weft and north. The wind (drawn by the land, no doubt) then came from the fea ; upon which we weighed, and ftood on. towards Dory harbour.

Off the mouth of the bay, before the harbour, but out of the fwell, a boat with two Papua men, came on board, after having converfed a good deal with our linguifts at a diftance : fatisfied we were friends, they haftened afliore, to tell, I fup- pofe, the news. Soon aft^r, many Papua Coffres

carae

T O N E W G U I N E A. iO|

came on board, and were quite eafy and familiar : '^ts*

. ^ -^ January*

all of them wore their hair bufhed out fo much round their heads, that its circumference meafured about three foot, and where leaft, two and a half. In this they ftuck their comb, confifting of four or five long diverging teeth, with which they now and then combed their frizzling locks, in a direc- tion perpendicular from the head, as with a defign to make it more bulky. They fometimes adorned their hair with feathers. The women had only their left ear pierced, in which they wore fmall brafs rings. The hair of the women was bufhed out alfo J but not quite fo much as that of the men. As we were rowing along, one of my <:rowned pigeons efcaped from its cage, and flew to the woods.

We anchored about four in the afternoon, clofe

to one of their great houfes, which is built on

pofts, fixed feveral yards below low -water mark ;

fo that the tenement is always above the water : a

long ftage, fupported by poits, going from it to

the land, juft at high water mark. The tenement

contains many families, who live in cabins on each

fide of a wide common hall, that goes through the

middle of it, and has two doors, one opening to

the ftage, towards the land •, tlie other on a large

ftage towards the fea, fupported likewife by poft'>

in rather deeper water than thofe tliat fupport tie

tenement. On this ftage the canoes are hauled <-ip i

and from this the boats are ready for a launo'i, at

any time of tide, if the Haraforas attack from the

land ; if they attack by fea, the Papuas take to

the woods. The married people, un'Ti*'ir»'i^^

womeno

I02 A V O Y A G E

1775- women, and children, live in thefe large tene* iii!]^]Xw» ments, which, as I have faid, have two doors; the one to the long narrow ftage, that leads to the land ; the other to the broad ftage, which is over the Tea, and on which they keep their boats, hav- ing outriggers on each fide. A few yards from this fea ftage, if I may fo call it, are built, in ftill deeper water, and on ftronger pofts, houfes where only batchelors live. This is like the cuftom of the Batta people on Sumatra, and the Idaan or Moroots on Borneo, where, I am told, the bat- chelors are feparated from the young women and the married people.

At Dory were two large tenements of this kind, about four hundred yards from each other, and each had a houfe for the batchelors, clofe by it : in one of the tenements were fourteen cabins, feven on a fide ; in the other twelve, or fix on a I fide. In the common hall, I faw the women

\ fometimes making mats, at other times forming

pieces of clay into earthen pots ; with a pebble in one hand, to put into it, whilft they held in the other hand alfo a pebble, with which they knock-: ed, to enlarge and fmooth it. The pots fo formed, they burnt with dry grafs, or light brufhwood. The men, in general, wore a thin ftuff, that comes i'om the coco nut tree, and refembles a coarfe ktid of cloth, tied forward round the middle, and up behind, between the thighs. The women wore, in gtneral, coarfe blue Surat baftas, round their middle, not as a petticoat, but tucked up behind, like the men ; fo that the body and thigh were almoft naked ; as boys and girl^ go entirely. I

have

T O N E W G U I N E A. 103

have often obferved the women with an ax or chop- /775'

r January,

ping knife, fixing polls for the ftages, whilll the u^-y J raen were fauntering about idle. Early in a morning I have ken tlie men fetting out in their boats, with two or three fox looking dogs,* for certain places to hunt the wild hog, which they call Ben : a dog they call Naf I have fre- quently bought of them pieces of wild hog j which, however, I avoided carrying on board the galley, but drefled and eat it artiore, unwilling to give offence to the crew.

At anchor, I fired Tome fwivel guns : the grown people did not regard this, or feem frightened, while the boys and girls ran along the ftages, into the woods.

Saturday the 28th. Frefh winds, with fqualls, but no rain. The clouds feemed to gather, and fettle over the mountains of Arfak, which lie fouth of this harbour : they are exceeding high ; higher than any of the mountains we had hitherto ken, to the weftward, on this coaft.

After pafTing the Cape of Good Hope, the pro- montory of Dory, from a large fhip's deck, may be feen fifteen or fixteen leagues off, disjuncfl from New Guinea, and like an ifland. To get into Dory harbour, coaft it along, at a reafonable dif-

* Among fmall iflands, the wild hogs often fwim in a firing, from one ifland to another, the hog behind leaning his fnout on the rump of the one before. The hunters then kill them with eafe.

tancc :

January.

104 A V O Y A G E

, >775-^ tance : the flat points and the ifland Yowry will appear very plain. Having got beyond the laft Flat Point, which is near the eaftermoft part of the promontory, you fuddenly perceive an ifland (Manafwary) : this muft be kept on the left. Steer mid channel, in fourteen and fifteen fathom water, fandy ground. Farther in, and to the weftward of Manafwary, is a fmaller ifland, called Mafmapy, which muft alfo be left on the fame hand. When abreaft of the ifland Mafmapy, that is, when the body of it bears about fouth, you will have four- teen fathom water, fandy ground : then look out for a funk fhoal of coral rocks, two foot deep, at low water, and at high water fix : it is bold to. Keep it alfo on the left, and fteer into the inner harbour, which will hold any number of fliips, in foundings from twelve to five fathom water, muddy ground. Frefli water may be had in many places ; wood every where. Dory harbour lies in latitude 00° 21' S. longitude 131° E.

Schoutfen's ifland, as laid down by Dampier, bears E. S. E. from the Cape of Good Hope, and has its fouth coaft undetermined by a dotted line. The coaft of New Guinea oppofite to it is unde- termined alfo. — As the promontory of Dory bears from the Cape in the fame diredion, and I can find no voyager has gone to the fouth of Schouten's ifland, I am apt to think it is the fame land, which time alone will fhow.

Having opened the hold, about which we lately had been in great pain, we found our provifions greatly damaged. A tight cheft faved many of

T O N E W G U I N E A. 105

my piece goods. The damaged I wafhed direfll)'^ Tanl'?* in frefh water, and was lucky in getting them well dried. It often threatened to rain, but did not j unlike the climate of Waygiou, where, as has been faid, the clouds often break, and fall in rain unexpe(5tedly.

CHAP. VIII.

Arrival of the BangueyCorocoro — Fate of the Borneo--^ Arrival of a Corocoro from Tidore — Mohicca Me- thod of fijhing — Arrival of a Boat from an IJland called Myfory — Harbour of Manfmgham — Appre- henjions of the Inhabitants of OJJy F'illage — Far- ther Account of the Papuas — Stri5lnefs of the Dutch — Search for the Nutmeg Tree^ to no Pur- pofe ; find it at loft, on the Ifland of Manafwary — Account of the Haraforas — Give up to the People of Dory the Debt they have contra^ed — Account of Dory — Account of the Coaft of New Guin§a, Eajl of Dory Harbour, and of the //lands near the Coqfi — Alfo of the Places on the Coafi, IVeJl cf Dory Harbour,

W,

E had hitherto been very uneafy about the two corocoros, with which we parted company the twenty-fourth -, but, juft after funfet, news was brought, to our very great joy, that one of them had arrived. Tuan Hadjee immediately fet off, in our boat ; and returned with the Eanguey, at (even in the evening. They informed us, that the

Borneo

January.

io6 A V O Y A G E

«775- Borneo had foundered in the bad weather, the next day after flie parted with us ; but, that the Ban- guey, by keeping near her, had faved the people, who were twelve : they loft, however, all their eloaths, and a bafket of cloves belonging Jto the Sultan of Batchian.

The Banguey corocoro had then twenty-five people : they hove overboard a calk of water, and many cakes of fago. By what I could learn, the Borneo carried too much fail, juft before fhe foundered ; and took in a fea forward, which water-logged her. The Serang being fick, I, at his requeft, fent him afhore, to the houfe of a Papua man, who, for fome Surat blue cloth, took great care of him. A boy brought me for fale, a fmall brown pig, which made me expedttofind a breed of hogs ; but I was difappointed, this being a very young pig caught in the woods, and fo tamed, that it eat fago flour.

Saturday the 29th. Had ftill north weft winds, with fome rain ; ftiifted our birth from the lower Papua tenement to the upper, and moored in two fathom fand, with a rope to the poft of the tene- ment. Prefented to each of the Batchian Mante- ries, as well as the two officers, a fcarlet coat, and gave each private man a frock and long draw- ers of chintz. I enquired much about nutmegs among the Papua people : one man faid, he would fetch fome nutmegs from Mandamy, a place to the eaftward. I made him a fmall prefent j but faw no more of him,

Mondiy

T O N E W G U I N E A. 107

Monday the 30th. Fair weather, with winds at j.^LVy. north weft ; got out our fago bread to dry •, found- ^- — ^r-^ ed part of the harbour. The Jerry BafTa (linguift) of Manfingham came on board, and was very talkative with Mapia, the linguift I had purchafed at Yowl. The name of the former was Mambe- way ; and he fpoke a little broken Malay.

1'iiefday the 31ft. Variable winds at three P. M. We faw a large corocoro coming in, with Dutch colours flying. This put us on our guard ; I found file came from Tidore : I then muftered fifty peo- ple, moflly armed with bows and arrows.

On tVednefday the ift of February. The No- ,775. quedah (commander) of the Tidore corocoro, ^*^'""y* made me a vifit, -1 treated him civilly, and pre- fented him with a pocket compafs and a palam* pore or counterpane.

Thiirfday the 2d. Moderate weather : went a fifhing in company with the Tidore Noquedah. We tied coco nut leaves to a ftone, about a pound